Testing lockers and sway bar - dumb question.

[mgrowc1]

I’ve never had a rubicon before although have had jeeps. My previous jeep had a bunch of electrical issues that I didn’t notice until a while after having it - when I tried to turn the traction control off. The end result was thousands in repairs under warranty as this was apparently the one thing I noticed but a lot of electrical issues that needed to be fixed.

So that brings me to my question. Everything is working fine but I’d like to just check the lockers and sway bar are all good before I get a chance to hit the trails. I read somewhere you shouldn’t mess with lockers on a hard surface or certain speed etc. So what is the best way for me to just make sure the buttons are actually working without screwing something up.

Thanks,
Mark

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[BillArnett]

It's OK to engage the lockers on pavement for a few seconds if you're going straight and slow. If you try to turn you'll feel that it isn't tracking normally and the wheels will chirp. Doing that gently just enough to see that it's working should be fine. You'll have to be going straight again to turn the lockers off. If you can find a place with poor traction that's better yet.

Disengaging the sway bar is no big deal if you're going very slowly.

On a JK you have to be in 4LO to lock the diffs. And in 4wd below about 20mph to disengage the sway bar. JL is probably the same.

 

[Dynomite1371]

I did it last week, went on a light trail where I work. Tested everything. All worked. When engaged lights stayed on. Then off, when disengaged. Drove for a bit on the trail with sway bar disc. Pretty cool.

 

[Sheepjeep]

When I tested my I just did slow donuts in an empty parking lot. Yes driving on dry pavement is not the best over a long period of time but the drive train can handle.

For the locker put it in 4 low open get do some donuts in first gear (force it in first in an auto) and get a feel for how it turns, then put on the rear and feel the rear start to kick around, then put on the front and you can feel the front start to kick around.

For the sway bar it is tougher to check as you need to flex out the suspension. But you can try and play with the button make sure it toggles properly. Then if you do find a safe method to flex it out try first with the sway bar engaged and then try the same things with it disengaged

 

[Dynomite1371]

When I tested my I just did slow donuts in an empty parking lot. Yes driving on dry pavement is not the best over a long period of time but the drive train can handle.

For the locker put it in 4 low open get do some donuts in first gear (force it in first in an auto) and get a feel for how it turns, then put on the rear and feel the rear start to kick around, then put on the front and you can feel the front start to kick around.

For the sway bar it is tougher to check as you need to flex out the suspension. But you can try and play with the button make sure it toggles properly. Then if you do find a safe method to flex it out try first with the sway bar engaged and then try the same things with it disengaged

I found a big rock pile (ok, not big) best I could do....

 

[JLUSoCal]

I just got past 300 miles and heading to the desert next Thursday for it's official inaugural run! That said, on the way home yesterday pulled onto a trail to try the 4wd, lockers and sway bar disconnect. All worked BUT the first time in 4h or 4l it popped back out to 2w and neutral after a few minutes. I shifted it back and it stayed the second go around - possible it was just tight? I'll keep an eye on it out in the desert and hopefully it won't need adjustment.... Anyone else had their first few pulls on the transfer case slip back out?

I pulled up a steep side hill (it's been raining here) and it slipped as expected making a hard turn. Does take the lockers and sway bar a bit of time to engage / disengage but that's by design.

That said, would love to have a bit more control of the sway bar disconnect. I realize for safety they want it engaged with any speed, but as with my XJ many moons ago, it's so much smoother with it disconnected and tracks much more level! I'm not a speed demon and know how poorly it reacts to turns with it off so not worried. I'll be looking for an override in the months / years to come as the aftermarket catches up with the JL.

 

[BillArnett]

My JK’s transfer case shifter was very stiff when it was new. Have to pull hard and roll a bit to make sure it’s fully engaged. Loosened up considerably after a few months. JL Rubicon has the same transfer case.

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