Steering upgrade recommendations?

[Bigoledome324]

Hey I’ve got an 18 JL. 20s with 35s. Everything else is stock gonna start upgrading steering components to shore up the stupidity in engineering they did. (I’m not fooling with the steel box vs my current aluminum yet)

For sure installing the yeti XD track bar and the steer smarts sector shaft brace. Still searching for best deal on Fox ATS or Falcon 2.2 (I like the piggy back reservoir more but idk) so that’s going on for sure as well.

question is should I go ahead and do the tie rod upgrade as well or just start with those three and see how we do?

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[c20040215]

Install the 2 components you mentioned and see how they help your steering. If you like steer smart parts, go ahead and add their drag link and tie rod. Or any well known brand you like.

I would put steering stabilizer all they way down to the list, or even skip it if you ask me.
I know you said you don't want to mess with the steering box, but that is a better way to spend $400 to remove the steering play, not stabilizer.

 

[Bigoledome324]

Install the 2 components you mentioned and see how they help your steering. If you like steer smart parts, go ahead and add their drag link and tie rod. Or any well known brand you like.

I would put steering stabilizer all they way down to the list, or even skip it if you ask me.
I know you said you don't want to mess with the steering box, but that is a better way to spend $400 to remove the steering play, not stabilizer.

how on earth would the steel box only be $400? The part alone in 5-7.

 

[TectonicDiscoveries]

I recently swapped the aluminum for steel box in my 18 and it made A WORLD of difference in the steering play. What was maybe a full inch of deadzone was reduced to about 1/2". Feels a lot better on the highway at speed since it doesnt seem to wander as much.

I tried the steering stabilizer and longer Mopar control arms and while they did help- nothing made as much as a difference as the steel steering box. It may also be because they can actually tighten it. The dealer I went to fought me on replacing it but when I asked to then tighten the steering on the alu box they said they couldnt so conceded to actually doing work.

 

[c20040215]

how on earth would the steel box only be $400? The part alone in 5-7.

It shows aluminum box pictures but I believe thats the part number. They are not expensive.

https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-power-steering-gear-68551684ae

 

[Bigoledome324]

It shows aluminum box pictures but I believe thats the part number. They are not expensive.

https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-power-steering-gear-68551684ae

I like that price the question is install price haha

 

[c20040215]

I like that price the question is install price haha

I have faith in you, you can find a buddy to help you install it for a couple of beer.
All Im trying to tell you is 99.9% of the steering issue, stabilizer isnt the answer.

 

[Bigoledome324]

I have faith in you, you can find a buddy to help you install it for a couple of beer.
All Im trying to tell you is 99.9% of the steering issue, stabilizer isnt the answer.

I can knock out my three previous I quoted. That box on the other hand is a hard pass lol.

 

[TectonicDiscoveries]

There is also a software update tied to swapping the steering box from alu to steel in the TSB. I think it triggers the pump to run for longer to cool the box which adds to the service cost on that one.

 

[arnie_mueller]

After I installed my lift, I had a really bad shimmy, unfortunately, it was really inconsistent, but easily reproduceable on certain roads.

My story:

I first bought a Fox ATS stabilizer. I'd buy it again. I like that there is no push/pull like with the non through shaft ones, I was getting some push(?) (drifting towards passenger) and the ATS resolved that. It also dramatically decreased the amount of shimmy I was getting. I knew it was not the end though, it was $300 brand new so I had to buy it.

Later, I bought some Rusty's steering components (I don't recommend them unless you're building a dedicated buggy) from a forum member. Even though the ball joint ends were pretty loose, and I'll probably need to replace them after this year, it even more dramatically decreased the shimmy, to a point where the steering wheel no longer goes from like 11 to 2 clock positions while driving certain roads.

I'm still getting some shimmy I can feel in the steering wheel and if the doors are off or I look out the window, I see the tire dancing side to side, like Shakira's hips, this tire don't lie, I think I need ball joints next.

My re-gear and ball joints are going to be in 2 weeks!!!


TL;DR - If I were to buy a Jeep and lift it to run 37s again, I'd immediately swap the tie rod, drag link, knuckles, and ball joints and save myself a lot of grief. I'm poor so I figured it'd be okay to do it in phases, it has sucked doing it in phases.

 

[Bigoledome324]

I can’t knock out my three quotes. That box on the other hand is a hard pass lol.

After I installed my lift, I had a really bad shimmy, unfortunately, it was really inconsistent, but easily reproduceable on certain roads.

My story:

I first bought a Fox ATS stabilizer. I'd buy it again. I like that there is no push/pull like with the non through shaft ones, I was getting some push(?) (drifting towards passenger) and the ATS resolved that. It also dramatically decreased the amount of shimmy I was getting. I knew it was not the end though, it was $300 brand new so I had to buy it.

Later, I bought some Rusty's steering components (I don't recommend them unless you're building a dedicated buggy) from a forum member. Even though the ball joint ends were pretty loose, and I'll probably need to replace them after this year, it even more dramatically decreased the shimmy, to a point where the steering wheel no longer goes from like 11 to 2 clock positions while driving certain roads.

I'm still getting some shimmy I can feel in the steering wheel and if the doors are off or I look out the window, I see the tire dancing side to side, like Shakira's hips, this tire don't lie, I think I need ball joints next.

My re-gear and ball joints are going to be in 2 weeks!!!


TL;DR - If I were to buy a Jeep and lift it to run 37s again, I'd immediately swap the tie rod, drag link, knuckles, and ball joints and save myself a lot of grief. I'm poor so I figured it'd be okay to do it in phases, it has sucked doing it in phases.

thanks man!

 

[gato]

Hey I’ve got an 18 JL. 20s with 35s. Everything else is stock gonna start upgrading steering components to shore up the stupidity in engineering they did. (I’m not fooling with the steel box vs my current aluminum yet)

For sure installing the yeti XD track bar and the steer smarts sector shaft brace. Still searching for best deal on Fox ATS or Falcon 2.2 (I like the piggy back reservoir more but idk) so that’s going on for sure as well.

question is should I go ahead and do the tie rod upgrade as well or just start with those three and see how we do?

Are you trying to address some specific issue that you have? And what is your primary use for the vehicle? Highway? Offroad?

Hard to answer your questions without more info. As others have said, the iron steering box has been the single most impactful upgrade to JL steering. Jeep, after denying it for 3 year, finally bit the bullet and changed the component plus issued the TSB for all previous model years. If you don't like the steering feel you need to start there.

You can save some money and buy the Fox TS (not ATS) steering stabilizer, does the same thing (quiets the shimmies while being neutral), for much lower cost.

If you wheel, you may want to change the tierod and relocate the stabilizer above it as next step.

With a beefy tierod (eg. SteerSmarts), Fox TS stabilizer above said tie rod and the iron steering box, you will see a market improvement in both steering behavior on-road and offroad capability all for ~$1000 in parts.

 

[Bigoledome324]

Are you trying to address some specific issue that you have? And what is your primary use for the vehicle? Highway? Offroad?

Hard to answer your questions without more info. As others have said, the iron steering box has been the single most impactful upgrade to JL steering. Jeep, after denying it for 3 year, finally bit the bullet and changed the component plus issued the TSB for all previous model years. If you don't like the steering feel you need to start there.

You can save some money and buy the Fox TS (not ATS) steering stabilizer, does the same thing (quiets the shimmies while being neutral), for much lower cost.

If you wheel, you may want to change the tierod and relocate the stabilizer above it as next step.

With a beefy tierod (eg. SteerSmarts), Fox TS stabilizer above said tie rod and the iron steering box, you will see a market improvement in both steering behavior on-road and offroad capability all for ~$1000 in parts.

I’m not trying to lie I’m a pavement princess haha. I just off-road from time to time. But it’s my daily.

it wonders to the right. I’ve had the front end checked and tires balanced. Pitman arm was crap so that got replaced but it’s consistently got play in the wheel from 12oclock to 1oclock. Then pulls right just a hair. 55mph+ is where the most happens. Under that it’s just play in wheel. Then if I hit a large bump I get shaking that I can drive out of but the rarely happens since I bought the new set of wheels and tires.

 

[Dirtflirt]

I ran into the situation where I could not turn the steering wheel while off-roading on 37's aired down. The $3600 solution was a bit out of reach so I chose the Apex kit that gives you an adjustable PRV for the electric pump and a substantial cooler, $400, while I was in there I chose to add a redneck ram DIY kit for another $400. These stacked well with the Cavfab steering linkage kit and the metal cloak ball joints that was necessary after the MC GC 2.5" lift and 37's. The lift and tires exposed a bunch of worn-out joints that only had 40K miles on them the death wobble was quite pronounced I had it a couple of times with the stock tires and suspension but not like that. You give up a little steering speed but the hydraulic ram does a great job at stabilizing the system for the same cost as a stabilizer.

My 2 cents on the issue for my needs for what I do with my Jeep, not for everyone.

 

[Nukem]

There is also a software update tied to swapping the steering box from alu to steel in the TSB. I think it triggers the pump to run for longer to cool the box which adds to the service cost on that one.

I had them switch mine out. The service manager told me the software update was extra. I asked him why should I pay for something that Jeep f*cked up and should be part of the swap? Got it free.

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