Seeking Proper Circuit

[AndySpill]

I'm considering installing one of those auto eject receptacles (e.g. https://kussmaul.com/ejection-units ) on my Sahara that are common on emergency service vehicles. To those unfamiliar, they provide an AC current male plug to attach shore power to, for purposes of running say a battery trickle charger while the vehicle is parked, and then eject that plug when the engine is cranked.

Towards this goal can anyone recommend a place on the 3.6L vehicle's circuitry that is only 12V energized when the vehicle is cold cranked (i.e. not ESS started)?

P.S. I think I came up with a way to do this, which I'd still like subject to forum critique:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-battery-diagram.14401/

The PCR (Power Control Relay) is energized during ESS events and a split second at start up to test the ESS battery, correct?

So if the PCR has been on for say, at least a second (i.e. an ESS event, not an instantaneous pre-cold crank ESS battery test,) using some timed relay, my auto ejector plug can ignore the electrical current supplied to the engine starter and not seek to push out of its receptacle any shore plug. This would represent an ESS engine start where the vehicle has long since left the driveway, the shore plug long since been ejected.

But the near instantaneous energizing of the PCR at cold crank wouldn't cause my timed relay to prevent the current heading to the engine starter to also energize the auto eject plug, pushing the shore plug out if it's plugged in, before the vehicle is taken out of park.

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[alphawolff]

I'm considering installing one of those auto eject receptacles (e.g. https://kussmaul.com/ejection-units ) on my Sahara that are common on emergency service vehicles. To those unfamiliar, they provide an AC current male plug to attach shore power to, for purposes of running say a battery trickle charger while the vehicle is parked, and then eject that plug when the engine is cranked.

Towards this goal can anyone recommend a place on the 3.6L vehicle's circuitry that is only 12V energized when the vehicle is cold cranked (i.e. not ESS started)?

P.S. I think I came up with a way to do this, which I'd still like subject to forum critique:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-battery-diagram.14401/

The PCR (Power Control Relay) is energized during ESS events and a split second at start up to test the ESS battery, correct?

So if the PCR has been on for say, at least a second (i.e. an ESS event, not an instantaneous pre-cold crank ESS battery test,) using some timed relay, my auto ejector plug can ignore the electrical current supplied to the engine starter and not seek to push out of its receptacle any shore plug. This would represent an ESS engine start where the vehicle has long since left the driveway, the shore plug long since been ejected.

But the near instantaneous energizing of the PCR at cold crank wouldn't cause my timed relay to prevent the current heading to the engine starter to also energize the auto eject plug, pushing the shore plug out if it's plugged in, before the vehicle is taken out of park.

This is correct. It's also why if the aux battery is totally flat you won't be able to start the vehicle at all. For a second or so during the cold drank the entire electrical system is running off the aux battery.

If you're just looking for a 12v that's only active during a crank condition there is no reason to not splice into the starter control wire. This wire is only energized during the crank, and I assume you only need a 12v signal for the plug to do its thing. Pop the PDC out and splice in for a 10 minute job.

I do not know why the ESS is important here, as you said once the vehicle has ejected your plug it's not like it can eject it again.

 

[KCSgtMaj]

I'm considering installing one of those auto eject receptacles (e.g. https://kussmaul.com/ejection-units ) on my Sahara that are common on emergency service vehicles. To those unfamiliar, they provide an AC current male plug to attach shore power to, for purposes of running say a battery trickle charger while the vehicle is parked, and then eject that plug when the engine is cranked.

Towards this goal can anyone recommend a place on the 3.6L vehicle's circuitry that is only 12V energized when the vehicle is cold cranked (i.e. not ESS started)?

P.S. I think I came up with a way to do this, which I'd still like subject to forum critique:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-battery-diagram.14401/

The PCR (Power Control Relay) is energized during ESS events and a split second at start up to test the ESS battery, correct?

So if the PCR has been on for say, at least a second (i.e. an ESS event, not an instantaneous pre-cold crank ESS battery test,) using some timed relay, my auto ejector plug can ignore the electrical current supplied to the engine starter and not seek to push out of its receptacle any shore plug. This would represent an ESS engine start where the vehicle has long since left the driveway, the shore plug long since been ejected.

But the near instantaneous energizing of the PCR at cold crank wouldn't cause my timed relay to prevent the current heading to the engine starter to also energize the auto eject plug, pushing the shore plug out if it's plugged in, before the vehicle is taken out of park.

Do you park that thing in a Bat Cave or something?

 

[AndySpill]

This is correct. It's also why if the aux battery is totally flat you won't be able to start the vehicle at all. For a second or so during the cold drank the entire electrical system is running off the aux battery.

If you're just looking for a 12v that's only active during a crank condition there is no reason to not splice into the starter control wire. This wire is only energized during the crank, and I assume you only need a 12v signal for the plug to do its thing. Pop the PDC out and splice in for a 10 minute job.

I do not know why the ESS is important here, as you said once the vehicle has ejected your plug it's not like it can eject it again.

Towards the goal of insuring a plug ejected before moving forward, clearly, the auto eject running after a shore plug’s long been ejected and driven from is—as you cite—harmless, I just don’t want to overtax the ejector’s motor and thought a couple of cheap relays could address that.

@KCSgtMaj : if I don’t trickle charge ESS doesn’t work: some may claim not only a good thing but funny enough, in a way, a solution to my issue here.

 

[KCSgtMaj]

@AndySpill, so what, just disable ESS.

 

[AndySpill]

@AndySpill, so what, just disable ESS.

Fair, but without also bypassing the ESS battery, trickle charging's reducing the chance of that small battery sucking life out of the main one, ESS disabled or not.

Besides, with ESS I can live in a fool's paradise thinking I'm doing right by the planet as I faster wear out aspects of the vehicle with green footprints of their own, to replace and spend money buying.

 

[KCSgtMaj]

Fair, but without also bypassing the ESS battery, trickle charging's reducing the chance of that small battery sucking life out of the main one, ESS disabled or not.

Besides, with ESS I can live in a fool's paradise thinking I'm doing right by the planet as I faster ware out aspects of the vehicle with green footprints of their own, to replace and spend money buying.

How old is the aux battery?

 

[AndySpill]

How old is the aux battery?

1/2021: replaced once since 2018 purchase. at the same time as main battery was replaced..

 

[KCSgtMaj]

1/2021: replaced once since 2018 purchase. at the same time as main battery was replaced..

I would go with a dual battery replacement kit From Genesis.

 

[AndySpill]

I would go with a dual battery replacement kit From Genesis.

...Great kit but pricey for an admitted "suburban warrior" like myself, not apt to run many current drawing appliances from the vehicle, particularly with the alternator off....

certainly better than the OEM battery setup though.....and point taken given my soon to be in the market again for replacement batteries..

 

[AndySpill]

Of course given that the goal is shore cord ejection there's this...current unavailable and probably not outdoor rated though:

https://www.blessthisstuff.com/stuff/technology/misc-gadgets/tug-magnetic-breakaway-plug/

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/VoltSafe-Magnetic-Extension-Block-Heaters/dp/B085W5RJ4P (7 amp limit; I'm running a 3 amp trickle charger)

 

[storyg]

I'm considering installing one of those auto eject receptacles (e.g. https://kussmaul.com/ejection-units ) on my Sahara that are common on emergency service vehicles. To those unfamiliar, they provide an AC current male plug to attach shore power to, for purposes of running say a battery trickle charger while the vehicle is parked, and then eject that plug when the engine is cranked.

Towards this goal can anyone recommend a place on the 3.6L vehicle's circuitry that is only 12V energized when the vehicle is cold cranked (i.e. not ESS started)?

P.S. I think I came up with a way to do this, which I'd still like subject to forum critique:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-battery-diagram.14401/

The PCR (Power Control Relay) is energized during ESS events and a split second at start up to test the ESS battery, correct?

So if the PCR has been on for say, at least a second (i.e. an ESS event, not an instantaneous pre-cold crank ESS battery test,) using some timed relay, my auto ejector plug can ignore the electrical current supplied to the engine starter and not seek to push out of its receptacle any shore plug. This would represent an ESS engine start where the vehicle has long since left the driveway, the shore plug long since been ejected.

But the near instantaneous energizing of the PCR at cold crank wouldn't cause my timed relay to prevent the current heading to the engine starter to also energize the auto eject plug, pushing the shore plug out if it's plugged in, before the vehicle is taken out of park.

 

[alphawolff]

Towards the goal of insuring a plug ejected before moving forward, clearly, the auto eject running after a shore plug’s long been ejected and driven from is—as you cite—harmless, I just don’t want to overtax the ejector’s motor and thought a couple of cheap relays could address that.

@KCSgtMaj : if I don’t trickle charge ESS doesn’t work: some may claim not only a good thing but funny enough, in a way, a solution to my issue here.

With the load on the ejector already removed, the ejector running will cause minimal if any actual wear on it. Really a non-factor.

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