Roof Rack Talk...

[jbcrane]

I was about to add to an older thread but there was too much detail that didn't pertain to the original OP's topic, so I'm starting a new thread with some specific information in case anyone else has similar questions.

My quest for a rack has been about 4 years in the making. I've gone back and forth on the topic. Can I get away without one and keep the top lines smooth and uncluttered? If I were to buy one, which one? There are so many approaches to a rack for the JLU on the market and did I really need/want to add that to my to do list? Ultimately the answer - after 4+ years with my Wrangler - was yes, it's time.

So the research begins. I knew my ideal rack:

• had to not prevent the Jeep from fitting in the garage, with a 2" lift and 35" tires
• had to allow the interior head liner
• had to not be too heavy* itself
• had to be able to support enough weight for what I needed it for
• would never hold a roof top tent
• had to allow solid mounting - preferably without drilling holes in the fiberglass hard top
• had to look good and not impact fuel economy/tank range too much*
• had to produce low road noise

This put me in the gutter-mount rack category, vs. drilling holes and tying into the sport bar for additional support, which I didn't really need. Initially I looked at the JCR Offroad Rack. It seemed to check all my boxes and before really doing much research, hastily ordered one. But after a little more research I ended up canceling that order and instead selecting the Starlight from Sherpa Equipment Co., in northern Colorado (not to be confused with the Sherpa rack, offered by Rugged Ridge). The Sherpa Starlight checked all my boxes, allowing:

• 150 lbs dynamic load range/300 lbs static load range
• no-drill installation
• grooves on all 4 sides of each of the 9 - 2" cross members allowing nut insertion anywhere along the extruded rail
• adds only 2.25" to the highest point of the vehicle's roof
• mounts in 2 sections: a front and back, allowing removal of the front section to also remove the Freedom Panels w/o having to uninstall the whole rack
• mounts using 4 pillars on each side (vs. only 3), spreading the weight better across the fiberglass rain gutters
• is made in the USA (Colorado, all the better)
• uses 1/4" thick aluminum for the side rails vs. 3/16" thick in other racks, making it more rigid and stable under load (like an awning)
• has plenty of attachment points on the side rails
• opens up a robust ecosystem of accessories, but doesn't force you into them; other accessories can work.
• lifetime warranty
• has steel gutter mounts with padded feet where they contact the fiberglass
• has black mounting hardware where visible
• all powder coating is done in house, and it's very a nice, even, durable surface
• an option for a notched front fairing allowing a light bar

I drove down and checked it out this morning (they're only 20 minutes away). The guys and gals at Sherpa were great, answering lots of questions while allowing me to closely scrutinize the design, material and mounting method. I walked away confident and comfortable with the decision. Lead time is about 2 weeks, and once fabricated I'll be able to drive down and pick it up. I'll add to this thread after installing.

*I don't work for Sherpa. I found a great solution others may benefit from. Also inviting others to offer their experiences with selecting a roof rack, and why that particular selection was made. Pictures are always helpful. Below are a few images after mine was installed:

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[Westymike]

It's a good solution for light duty if you're not going to run an RTT. I need strength for a tent, so I run the ARS Rocklander and just remove the trusses and rear hoop when not in use (so that it fits in my garage)

 

[MPets]

Thank You
jbcrane
You just saved me about 4 years of research . I currently have a rack I'm not too happy with. I bought it out of haste since it was on major sale and I need one for a planned adventure. I look forward to your review after having for a few days/trips. My criteria is the same as yours (other than the garage fit, I have high doors)

 

[jbcrane]

Thank You
jbcrane
You just saved me about 4 years of research . I currently have a rack I'm not too happy with. I bought it out of haste since it was on major sale and I need one for a planned adventure. I look forward to your review after having for a few days/trips. My criteria is the same as yours (other than the garage fit, I have high doors)

Hi Mike,

Glad to hear it! I can get pretty wrapped around the axle on such topics. For better or worse my typical MO is to get it right the first time, rather than winding up wasting a bunch of money on near misses. Often times this leads to the proverbial paralysis by analysis. I figured there might be at least one person out there who'd benefit from it . I'll keep this thread updated as I go. I'm looking forward to getting it in hand and installed.

Best, JBC

 

[jbcrane]

It's a good solution for light duty if you're not going to run an RTT. I need strength for a tent, so I run the ARS Rocklander and just remove the trusses and rear hoop when not in use (so that it fits in my garage)

Mike,
That's a sweet setup. I have the ARS rear bumper reinforcement brackets on my OEM steel bumper. Thanks for the picture too. It would great to have this turn into a collection of different solutions, with reasons and pics. Thanks, JBC

 

[jbcrane]

It has been a few weeks since putting up this thread and I promised a recap after install. Here it is:

At time of ordering, estimated delivery was 1-2 weeks. They came in at 2 weeks and 1 day, so not bad. Trouble with a laser cutter was cited as the cause. Upon picking up the rack everything was very well packaged. The main rack components ship in a large box measuring about 96" x 11" x 4" and weighs about 55#. It slid in my JLU with the front resting on the dash and the rear resting on the rear seat. Hardware and brackets came in a separate, smaller box, again - nicely packed.

Installation instructions were printed off the web site. First thing's first – unpack everything and go through the parts list to ensure all the required pieces were there. Unfortunately they were not. Two main brackets were missing, which was frustrating. Because they were closed Friday it meant waiting until the following Monday to get everything installed. Reading the reviews, I noticed at least one other person experiencing this same issue.

The rack mounts to the roof in 2 sections: the front, over the Freedom Panels, and a longer, rear section. I opted to install the front first - bc that's all the bracketry I had. Everything went together perfectly. Every one of the hundred+ bolts, washers, nuts, etc. were perfect - no damaged threads. Every one of the cross members were also perfect. This is one area I was a little concerned about. Two holes are tapped into each end of each (9) cross members, with button-head bolts screwing into aluminum. It would have been easy for taps to be imperfect. They were not, and everything bolted together cleanly.

Assembling and installing the rack solo was easy, though did take some time bc I'm slow and measure everything carefully. Rather than assembling the rack on the ground (or a table), then lifting the (heavy) assembled rack onto the roof - they have you assemble and install the main cross-bar assemblies one-by-one, positioning each onto the roof. A thick blanket across the roof eliminated any possibility of scratches as each of the 4 bars were positioned, measured, adjusted then fastened down.

Side rails go on next. Because each side rail is relatively light - lifting and positioning them is easy. Fine tuning placement of 4 supports along the length of the vehicle is easy, and soon the rack started taking shape. Once the 4 main supports were mounted, the remaining cross bars between were positioned and tightened down. A small step ladder made it easy to see exactly what you're doing atop the roof.

Overall impressions:
The rack is very well designed, engineered and constructed. It feels extremely well-built and sturdy. I watched other videos of guys hanging on the (3/16") side rails of other racks and they flexed. These side rails don't flex - at all. At 1/4" thick, they're extremely rigid and securely fastened to the roof at 4 points on each side.

A few notes about weight:

1. The rack reportedly weighs 55 lbs. I didn't weigh my final assembly, but did weigh a cross-member, which weighed 4.4 lbs. With 9 cross members, this clearly represents the bulk of the rack's weight. If you can get by with fewer cross members you'll save weight.
2. The Jeep owner's manual says to not put more than 100 lbs. on the roof - including the weight of the rack. They cite OEM/factory cross bars, which allow only 4 points of contact; 2 x 2 bars. Using that number is a great guideline. But it got me wondering...
3. If 4 points of contact on the factory roof rails support 100 lbs, I wonder if the 8 points of contact on this rack might support a little more - spreading the weight out over a larger area. I don't know - it's still only fiberglass - but I suspect the answer is yes, a little more. This helps, because...
4. Subtracting the weight of the rack (55 lbs) from the officially allowed capacity (100 lbs) leaves a scant 45 lbs of cargo weight on the roof. Not planning to overload it - but things add up pretty quick. For example, our River Quiver 2-banger comes in at 22lbs + bracket. That leaves about 20 lbs for things like bed rolls and other light incidentals.
5. If you're going to get a roof rack and put anything on top, pay close attention to weight.
6. I see a lot of guys with these ROAM boxes. They look great and all, but they're heavy (95L/83L weight about 25 lbs each). I also have to wonder what is being carried up there if one is strictly adhering to weight restrictions?

Wind & Noise:
The rack is very low profile, adding only about 2.5" to the height of the vehicle. This was important to fitting him in the garage (2" lift and 35's). No problem at all in our standard 8' garage height.

Because of the low profile, wind noise isn't bad. Positioning the front fairing is important. They recommend it not come in contact with the roof, and to leave 1/4" gap. So far wind noise isn't too bad, but as of this writing I haven't taken him on the highway for extended periods. I'll report back when I do.

Accessories:
Sherpa makes a lot of accessories for their racks. I'm sure I'll be adding a set of billet aluminum handles that bolt on into the slots, as well as the fly-rod brackets to mount the River Quiver off to one side. Traction board mounts, hi-lift mounts, rotopax mounts, light brackets, tie-down brackets... you name it, they've got a solution for it. Everything looks well designed and is made to order.

I'm happy with the decision to buy this rack. It was expensive (around $1,400), but after using the Jeep for many trips over 4+ years without a rack, I'm convinced it'll be a useful upgrade. And it looks great. It is not, however - license to over pack and ignore stated recommendations. Can you fudge a little weight here and there? I expect so. But is it a good idea? I suspect not.

Any questions - ask away.

 

[MPets]

Great write-up and a beautiful Jeep.

 

[jbcrane]

Great write-up and a beautiful Jeep.

Thanks Mike.

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