Opinions on this willys I found

[Jeepn’]

With high vehicle costs, taxes come into the equation. If you sell to Vroom or someone other than your dealer, you will pay full sales tax in the new vehicle. So all things being equal, the non-dealer offer needs to beat the dealer offer by the sales tax on your TRADE-IN value from the dealer. If they don’t, you come out behind.
So if your Tacoma is worth $30k trade-in, you won't pay sales tax on the first $30k of the Jeep. Let's assume you have a hypothetical 5% sales tax in your state with no funny luxury tax or anything (but you're in California, so you do). If the dealership offered $30k trade-in, you need to get paid at least $31,500 from any other source to break even, otherwise the increased taxes will offset your higher selling price.

Wow, I didn’t know any of this!

So if I trade in my Tacoma on a custom ordered jeep, would I trade in at the time of the order placed or is that dealt with once the jeep is received?

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[Some Random Guy]

Wow, I didn’t know any of this!

So if I trade in my Tacoma on a custom ordered jeep, would I trade in at the time of the order placed or is that dealt with once the jeep is received?

It would be when you accept delivery of the new Jeep.

At the time of ordering you should have some sort of sales agreement with a price and you'll probably pay a deposit. This gets you the "right of first refusal" when the vehicle arrives. The price is not set in stone, so ask questions.
For instance, it usually is subject to the incentives offered at the time of delivery, not the time of order. So if there's a current $1k incentive, the price may increase $1k by the time it arrives. The opposite can happen too, my wife got a good deal on her Colorado this way. We agreed on invoice pricing, but employee pricing for everyone came out when it actually arrived and she got it even lower.
Also, Jeep has been periodically raising prices. Those price increases will impact your offered price from when you ordered, because it raises the invoice price at the time of delivery.

 

[Jeepn’]

It would be when you accept delivery of the new Jeep.

At the time of ordering you should have some sort of sales agreement with a price and you'll probably pay a deposit. This gets you the "right of first refusal" when the vehicle arrives. The price is not set in stone, so ask questions.
For instance, it usually is subject to the incentives offered at the time of delivery, not the time of order. So if there's a current $1k incentive, the price may increase $1k by the time it arrives. The opposite can happen too, my wife got a good deal on her Colorado this way. We agreed on invoice pricing, but employee pricing for everyone came out when it actually arrived and she got it even lower.
Also, Jeep has been periodically raising prices. Those price increases will impact your offered price from when you ordered, because it raises the invoice price at the time of delivery.

I really appreciate your input, it’s genuinely extremely helpful. With regards to the trade-in, I’m assuming that would happen when I receive the jeep? Or would i be able to give them the truck when I made the initial order? I suppose my fear is that once I give a deposit they’ll have some leverage in what they want to give me for the truck.

 

[Some Random Guy]

I really appreciate your input, it’s genuinely extremely helpful. With regards to the trade-in, I’m assuming that would happen when I receive the jeep? Or would i be able to give them the truck when I made the initial order? I suppose my fear is that once I give a deposit they’ll have some leverage in what they want to give me for the truck.

Yes, trade-in will be when you receive the Jeep.
The deposit is generally refundable. Each dealership is different, but worst case they usually refund it once the vehicle has sold to someone else if you decide you don’t want it. Ask though, they’re usually very transparent because it helps everyone get along.
As for leverage, this is why you want to get some sort of soft sale agreement. It should be in writing and show you their planned price, subject to changing incentives and invoice prices. It’s not bullet proof, but no Gm/owner wants a review out there with verified paperwork that makes them into liars or bait-and-switch sellers. The only people I’ve heard have a rough time are those that don’t talk price before placing the order and their deposit. If you don’t feel comfortable when it is time to place the deposit, ask to think a day and come back here to post what was discussed so the community can help. They might even give you the draft paperwork without signatures.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

I would try to make the deal on the one you found first. Trings are changing so fast right now that the future is hard to count on. GM for instance, announced last week that they were shutting down almost all production. All manufacturers get much of their vehicle content from outside suppliers that supply the entire industry, regardless of manufacturer.

 

[Eandras]

Im thinking a custom order might be the way to go. Doesn’t seem like many dealers have any stock. Does anyone have an opinion on trading in my Tacoma vs selling to Carmax, carvana, etc?

Sell it to Carvana. Dealer offered 15k on a 2015 Sport S with hard top. LED Headlights, taillights and turn signals. Had 84k on odometer. Carvana gave me 20K on a wire transfer. They came took pictures, verified odometer. Signed agreement handed over title transfered money to account verified it was being initiated and she loaded up the truck.

Looking at the window sticker it looks like it was built 8/24 so it may be intrasnit. Did you contact the dealer and verified it was not a sold vehicle. Look for the build sheet under the order tracking section of the forum Copy the link and add vin from window sticker if it is a sold vehicle it will be listed on the build sheet as a sold vehicle

 

[Jeepn’]

Yes, trade-in will be when you receive the Jeep.
The deposit is generally refundable. Each dealership is different, but worst case they usually refund it once the vehicle has sold to someone else if you decide you don’t want it. Ask though, they’re usually very transparent because it helps everyone get along.
As for leverage, this is why you want to get some sort of soft sale agreement. It should be in writing and show you their planned price, subject to changing incentives and invoice prices. It’s not bullet proof, but no Gm/owner wants a review out there with verified paperwork that makes them into liars or bait-and-switch sellers. The only people I’ve heard have a rough time are those that don’t talk price before placing the order and their deposit. If you don’t feel comfortable when it is time to place the deposit, ask to think a day and come back here to post what was discussed so the community can help. They might even give you the draft paperwork without signatures.

I would try to make the deal on the one you found first. Trings are changing so fast right now that the future is hard to count on. GM for instance, announced last week that they were shutting down almost all production. All manufacturers get much of their vehicle content from outside suppliers that supply the entire industry, regardless of manufacturer.

Sell it to Carvana. Dealer offered 15k on a 2015 Sport S with hard top. LED Headlights, taillights and turn signals. Had 84k on odometer. Carvana gave me 20K on a wire transfer. They came took pictures, verified odometer. Signed agreement handed over title transfered money to account verified it was being initiated and she loaded up the truck.

Looking at the window sticker it looks like it was built 8/24 so it may be intrasnit. Did you contact the dealer and verified it was not a sold vehicle. Look for the build sheet under the order tracking section of the forum Copy the link and add vin from window sticker if it is a sold vehicle it will be listed on the build sheet as a sold vehicle

Well given that I do like the willys, I’ll give it a shot before doing a custom order. Before sending the email I would like to get your guys opinion on the email. Just a few pointers if there’s anything I should change or should be more upfront with the purchase price?




Dear sales manager,



My name is Eric and I am in the market for a new Jeep wrangler. I see there is a Wrangler willys currently in transit (VIN: 1C4–HJXDG9MW–740407) that I am interested in. I would like to verify if the vehicle is still in transit or in the lot, and not sold.

I have a 2018 Tacoma TRD off Road valued at 30k by caravana. If you can meet or exceed the value I would be interested in a trade-in. As well as being pre-approved by my credit union for the purchase, however I may be interested in financing through the dealer.

I am a serious buyer and motivated to purchase the vehicle however I am not in a rush given that I already have a truck. If you Can you please provide me with your best out the door price including all fees associated with the purchase I would really appreciate it. I look forward to hearing from you, thank you.



Best regards,
Eric.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

Cut a lot of that out. Just say you’re curious about that Jeep as it caught your eye. Let him think he needs to reel a fish in instead of you jumping in the boat for him. Emails often go unanswered. Most dealers have a popup for questions, you know a live person sees it that way. Or show up in person.

He doesn’t need to know about your trade until you talk numbers. A trade sweetens the pot as it gives them another opportunity to make money. Don’t let them know up front that you are pre approved. Wait until they start talking serious numbers. Writing loans is yet another way for them to make money. They will try hard to beat your pre approval. But saying pre approved is like saying that you’re paying cash, no dealer likes that.

Of course, someone else could have already ordered it. Just say that you’ve been looking and this caught your eye.Don’t let him know that you know how hard they are to find. You can let him know that you are willing to order. Just keep you cards close to your chest.

 

[Stetson]

not a bad e-mail to send and see what happens. I was at the Jeep Dealership this past weekend asking about the process for ordering a Jeep. My wife is interested in a Tuscadero (pink / magenta color) and I was doing a little fact finding.

1. They were super friendly and explained exactly what was going on with their inventory and the lack of inventory being shipped by Jeep.
2. Wranglers are basically on an order basis. People are ordering them. Any that are being shipped for inventory are being bought with a deposit while they are in transit. They did have a few wranglers on the lot, but all except one had a deposit and was a pending sale.
3. They have been seeing 8 - 10 week lead times on orders, however, Jeep's official lead time is 18-20 weeks.
4. They take $1,000 deposit to start the order process. All final pricing and financing is completed when the Jeep arrives
5. The sales price is the MSRP. No discounts, but also no dealer mark-ups.

Thats all i can think of at the moment...good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

[dalema]

With high vehicle costs, taxes come into the equation. If you sell to Vroom or someone other than your dealer, you will pay full sales tax in the new vehicle. So all things being equal, the non-dealer offer needs to beat the dealer offer by the sales tax on your TRADE-IN value from the dealer. If they don’t, you come out behind.
So if your Tacoma is worth $30k trade-in, you won't pay sales tax on the first $30k of the Jeep. Let's assume you have a hypothetical 5% sales tax in your state with no funny luxury tax or anything (but you're in California, so you do). If the dealership offered $30k trade-in, you need to get paid at least $31,500 from any other source to break even, otherwise the increased taxes will offset your higher selling price.

im not sure it works like that in CA, so you may want to verify first.

as someone mentioned you should be able to get a below invoice deal from Rob in SoCal if you can wait and order one:

Rob Trachtman
Tuttle Click Chrysler Jeep Dodge Ram
40 Auto Center Dr
Irvine Ca 92618
C 954-864-5162
[email protected]

drop him an email - he’s a straight shooter. You can see what people say about him in the Recommended Dealer thread up in the sticky section.

good luck!

 

[Jeepn’]

Cut a lot of that out. Just say you’re curious about that Jeep as it caught your eye. Let him think he needs to reel a fish in instead of you jumping in the boat for him. Emails often go unanswered. Most dealers have a popup for questions, you know a live person sees it that way. Or show up in person.

He doesn’t need to know about your trade until you talk numbers. A trade sweetens the pot as it gives them another opportunity to make money. Don’t let them know up front that you are pre approved. Wait until they start talking serious numbers. Writing loans is yet another way for them to make money. They will try hard to beat your pre approval. But saying pre approved is like saying that you’re paying cash, no dealer likes that.

Of course, someone else could have already ordered it. Just say that you’ve been looking and this caught your eye.Don’t let him know that you know how hard they are to find. You can let him know that you are willing to order. Just keep you cards close to your chest.

not a bad e-mail to send and see what happens. I was at the Jeep Dealership this past weekend asking about the process for ordering a Jeep. My wife is interested in a Tuscadero (pink / magenta color) and I was doing a little fact finding.

1. They were super friendly and explained exactly what was going on with their inventory and the lack of inventory being shipped by Jeep.
2. Wranglers are basically on an order basis. People are ordering them. Any that are being shipped for inventory are being bought with a deposit while they are in transit. They did have a few wranglers on the lot, but all except one had a deposit and was a pending sale.
3. They have been seeing 8 - 10 week lead times on orders, however, Jeep's official lead time is 18-20 weeks.
4. They take $1,000 deposit to start the order process. All final pricing and financing is completed when the Jeep arrives
5. The sales price is the MSRP. No discounts, but also no dealer mark-ups.

Thats all i can think of at the moment...good luck and let us know how it turns out.

im not sure it works like that in CA, so you may want to verify first.

as someone mentioned you should be able to get a below invoice deal from Rob in SoCal if you can wait and order one:

Rob Trachtman
Tuttle Click Chrysler Jeep Dodge Ram
40 Auto Center Dr
Irvine Ca 92618
C 954-864-5162
[email protected]

drop him an email - he’s a straight shooter. You can see what people say about him in the Recommended Dealer thread up in the sticky section.

good luck!

I appreciate all the advice. If I can’t secure a decent deal with the willys I found then I’ll shoot rob an email for a custom order. I’ve seen him pop up a few times! I almost forgot the things that go into buying a new vehicle haha.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

Sadly, it’s not very straight forward. There are always games being played.

 

[omnitonic]

I ended up buying my Willys off the lot, and I paid full MSRP.

In the plus column, I got a Jeep right away, and I got a good Jeep. It's more capable now, but it really was very capable bone stock.

In the minus column, I didn't even know exactly what I was going to end up doing with the thing when I bought it. I mean sure, let's see what's over this particular hill I was too scared to drive beyond, but I had no idea how much was beyond that hill, or how fun it was. Yee HAAA! So now a guy who kept his F150 bone stock for eight years has gone off the deep end on modifications.

I got a great Jeep out of the process, but I would have had a better Jeep if I had started with a Rubicon. If I had custom ordered a Rubicon with just the basic stuff I actually cared about, I could have gotten the Rubicon for less than I paid for the Willys. The $10,000 worth of stuff I added would work even better on a Rubicon, and if I had a Rubicon, I wouldn't be paying $2,000 to regear. Since I don't have a Rubicon, and I am paying to regear, I'm not going with 4.10, but I could live with 4.10 if I already had it.

If you think you might jump off the deep end and mod the hell out of your Jeep, I would advise taking the patient approach, and ending up with a better final product. If you plan to run it bone stock, and you don't care about any of the Rubicon goodies you'll be missing, then I would probably just buy the damn Jeep off the lot, and get one while you can.

I'm mildly annoyed that I didn't know enough to go the Rubicon route starting out, but it's not like my modified Willys is a bad Jeep. This thing kicks ASS! A Willys is still a "Rubicon Lite" bone stock. You don't get all the goodies, but you get a lot of the goodies.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

You learned a lot though Omni. And now it’s built, not bought.

 

[Jeepn’]

I ended up buying my Willys off the lot, and I paid full MSRP.

In the plus column, I got a Jeep right away, and I got a good Jeep. It's more capable now, but it really was very capable bone stock.

In the minus column, I didn't even know exactly what I was going to end up doing with the thing when I bought it. I mean sure, let's see what's over this particular hill I was too scared to drive beyond, but I had no idea how much was beyond that hill, or how fun it was. Yee HAAA! So now a guy who kept his F150 bone stock for eight years has gone off the deep end on modifications.

I got a great Jeep out of the process, but I would have had a better Jeep if I had started with a Rubicon. If I had custom ordered a Rubicon with just the basic stuff I actually cared about, I could have gotten the Rubicon for less than I paid for the Willys. The $10,000 worth of stuff I added would work even better on a Rubicon, and if I had a Rubicon, I wouldn't be paying $2,000 to regear. Since I don't have a Rubicon, and I am paying to regear, I'm not going with 4.10, but I could live with 4.10 if I already had it.

If you think you might jump off the deep end and mod the hell out of your Jeep, I would advise taking the patient approach, and ending up with a better final product. If you plan to run it bone stock, and you don't care about any of the Rubicon goodies you'll be missing, then I would probably just buy the damn Jeep off the lot, and get one while you can.

I'm mildly annoyed that I didn't know enough to go the Rubicon route starting out, but it's not like my modified Willys is a bad Jeep. This thing kicks ASS! A Willys is still a "Rubicon Lite" bone stock. You don't get all the goodies, but you get a lot of the goodies.

That is an approach I had considered, to just spec out a base rubicon with the only add-ons being a hardtop and automatic trans. The Tacoma I’m getting rid of isn’t worth much because it’s scratched, dented, and abused to hell. So I’m really hoping for 30k ? Lol. I do use my vehicles. Reason I considered the willys is my friend has one and the LSD isn’t a locker but man, that thing works good. On 37s, its had no issues doing the rubicon and dusy ershim. Something that my taco with lockers would struggle with.

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