KC Flex light bar wiring to sPOD

[RSenese]

Hello. I’m trying to figure out how to wire my new KC flex bar to my sPOD, instead of using the rocker switch provided. I attached the diagram from KC’s website below. I have the 3 wires, yellow green and white that would go into the rocker switch. I can see the yellow is the positive. Does that make the green the negative and the white should be grounded to the Jeep, or the white is the negative and the green to the Jeep? I appreciate the help!

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[RSenese]

Here are some pictures of the harness if it helps.

 

[CRZYCDN]

Quick look, the Aux is for the amber "mood light" hence the 3 position switch. If you want the mood light and full power options and not use the the factory switch you could wire them up to 2 different switches.

 

[GtX]

I don't have experience with this specific light. But, based on the images you posted the
the light has two 'on' setting. Assume there is a halo/running light option in addition to the primary beam. This would be my strategy.


The halo/running light is powered directly through the switch.
The primary bean is powered through a relay activated via the switch.

If you use the harness:

The yellow and black with the large ring-terminals go to the battery.
The white, red, and black with the small ring terminals go to the light (probably).
The spade terminals go to the switch.
Looks like the relay has a socket wired in for it.
The white wire between the switch and the light is the halo/running light.
The red wire between the relay and the light is the primary beam.
The black wire is the ground.
The green wire is the primary beam trigger from the switch to the relay.

If you use a switch system:

You won't need most of this harness. The switch system has the switch, relay (or solid state solenoids), and is already connected to the battery.

Check the current of the relay (probably 40A) and the switch currents in your switch system.
Select a switch with equal or greater capacity. This will switch the primary beam. Connect the red wire from this switch to the light.

Select a low current one to preserve the higher current switches for when you need them. This will switch the halo/running light. Connect the white wire.

Connect the black wire to a suitable ground point.

Edited to add:

The instructs show an 80A relay and 50A fuse. An 80A relay is large. 40A is more common. Your switch system may not have a switch that can handle this much power. If this is the case then this would be my strategy.

Connect the harness as intended except for the yellow, green, white wires with the spade terminals.
The green wire would go to one switch in the switch panel. This will switch the primary beam.
The white wire would go to another switch in the switch panel. This will switch the halo/running light.
The switch panel already has power so you won't need the yellow wire intended to connect to the switch. I would just fold this back against the wire and wrap with electrical tape.

 

[Brew211]

Wiring to an Spod:
The only wires you need are the red, black, and white. Cut everything else and throw it away (relay, switch, etc.). Run the black and red to one Spod terminal switch, and the white to a separate terminal switch (positive terminal). The Spod bantam has fuses, relays, and is already grounded.

Each 10” bar is 9 amps, I believe the internal fuses on the Spod are 30 amps, but I would verify that.

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