Factory Alpine 4" soundbar driver

[Terpsmandan]

So still trying to sort tout the soundbar in my 22 JLUR and tried a set of Infinty REF6530 components. Amp did not like them and shut the soundbar off. So I got a set of Alpine S-S65C components and tried them out. Sounded better than stock and the amp was happy. Still seemed that something was missing. I went and adjusted the fader and noticed that there was not much sound coming out of the component driver. The Alpine system is 4 ohm and the factory Alpine driver is 2.5 ohm. So I went back to install the OEM speakers into the soundbar for comparison. The level of the sound coming out of that 4" speaker was very low compared to the factory "tweeter". I swapped in a 3032 Infinity for comparison and there was very little difference between that and the factory speaker as well. I am going to pull the 3" driver in her soundbar (same system) this weekend to compare. Has anyone else checked that speaker only in their Alpine system? Thanks.

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[Terpsmandan]

I did a quick check of her Jeep earlier this evening and got similar results. This is supposed to be a premium audio system and two of the twelve channels for intents and purposes aren’t there.

 

[GATORB8]

From what I’ve seen, the factory “tweeters” carry most of the frequency, and the “mids” are mid basses. You may be driving the teeeters lower than what they can handle. I assume you aren’t using the crossovers?

 

[Terpsmandan]

No crossover. Just small plug into the tweeters and large plug into the woofer. The woofer channel in the soundbar seems to be almost nonexistent. Sounded as poor with the component 6” as it did when I connected the factory 4”. Overboosted talked about taking the small plug and connecting it to the larger speaker in his setup. Wonder if you could take the tweeter line and run that into a 6” and leave the other line disconnected.

 

[Ezun]

Interested in the outcome here…

 

[GATORB8]

No crossover. Just small plug into the tweeters and large plug into the woofer. The woofer channel in the soundbar seems to be almost nonexistent. Sounded as poor with the component 6” as it did when I connected the factory 4”. Overboosted talked about taking the small plug and connecting it to the larger speaker in his setup. Wonder if you could take the tweeter line and run that into a 6” and leave the other line disconnected.

Will the Infinity mid put the amp in protection by itself? How about infinity mid and a set of REF3032s?

 

[Terpsmandan]

I think it was the tweeter. The impedance of the stock tweeter is 4 ohm and the stock mid is 2.5. The infinity system is 3 ohm. Odd part is that the system is ok with the 3032 up front. It would be an interesting mod to get a 3.5” into one of those adapters. Either option doesn’t address the lack of signal coming out of the big plug. What if you leave it disconnected? Will the amp shut the other line off?

 

[GATORB8]

Ok, so I went back to some older searching I had done. The only real info I had found was from the JK alpine setup which I assume is very close. The high pass xover to the “tweeter” is 300hz, the infinity tweeters can’t hit under 2.5 kHz. So spitballing the mid bass is fed something like 100-300 hz.
if you only feed tweeter to the system you’ll have a hole between the sub and 300 hz.
if that works for you, you could feed “tweeter” to the xover to the comps, otherwise you need something on mid bass and a “tweeter” capable of basically full range coax specs.

 

[Terpsmandan]

Thanks for the info. Doesn’t really get around the fact that there’s almost no sound coming out of those two channels and back to wondering if there is any harm in leaving the big plug disconnected.

 

[GATORB8]

Thanks for the info. Doesn’t really get around the fact that there’s almost no sound coming out of those two channels and back to wondering if there is any harm in leaving the big plug disconnected.

Shouldn’t be any harm

 

[Deleted member 35398]

Ok, so I went back to some older searching I had done. The only real info I had found was from the JK alpine setup which I assume is very close. The high pass xover to the “tweeter” is 300hz, the infinity tweeters can’t hit under 2.5 kHz. So spitballing the mid bass is fed something like 100-300 hz.
if you only feed tweeter to the system you’ll have a hole between the sub and 300 hz.
if that works for you, you could feed “tweeter” to the xover to the comps, otherwise you need something on mid bass and a “tweeter” capable of basically full range coax specs.

You just made my head explode. Impressive you know that much about the sound system; now if I only knew what you said.

 

[Terpsmandan]

So @overboosted came up with a solution. A 6.5" full range on the small plug. I am going with his choice, A JL C2-650x, and a 2" driver to the large plug:

https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W2-2243S-2-Aluminum-Magnesium-Full-Range-Driver-264-803

I will report back when I get this installed.

 

[overboosted]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...r-adapter-installed.46613/page-7#post-1830333

Not a perfect setup, the the best solution I could find. One that I am very happy with at least.
I just listened to a factory system the other week and it's a huge difference when you play the same song and compare.

Another fun fact is the factory knee speakers are the same setup as the mid-bass sound bar speakers. There is only bass coming out of them and replacing them does very little. When I had my dash speakers out I set the fader to full front and heard what was coming out of them and thanked god I didn't bother trying to replace them. It is a big job and would be a waste of time and money. You're not going to hear much difference replacing them seeing that they are only outputting approximately 100-300hz

 

[Terpsmandan]

All should be here by thie end of the week. I was also playing around with a test tone generator to see if anything was missing and pretty much the only issue was that I can't hear anything about 12.5 Khz and the factory sub goes away after you get under 40 hz. BTW 40 Hertz is a low E on an electric bass.

 

[GATORB8]

All should be here by thie end of the week. I was also playing around with a test tone generator to see if anything was missing and pretty much the only issue was that I can't hear anything about 12.5 Khz and the factory sub goes away after you get under 40 hz. BTW 40 Hertz is a low E on an electric bass.

Could you tell where the low pass on the sub was set?

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