xeon
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- John
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2018
- Threads
- 13
- Messages
- 332
- Reaction score
- 251
- Location
- California
- Vehicle(s)
- JLU Rubicon
You have done a lot of work and lots of testing. When I get into the wondering of why voltage varies at one spot vs another I have to decide if it's worth the fight to figure it out. I am guessing the answer is yes for you. I was a test engineer for TRW safety systems many years ago....so conditions and equipment are my first things that have to be reviewed.
1. Did you use calibrated equipment for all your measurements including temperature while conducting the test. (was outside air temp and pressure the same for all measurements)
2. Did you test the temperature of the battery or the load at the time of the test.
3. Did you measure the resistance of the combined 40 feet of wire?
4. Did you measure the resistance of the wire with any terminals or connectors?
5. In your measurements did you include error variance for your measuring equipment?
6. What is the resistance of the voltage meter? Depending on type of voltage meter are you using? Inductive or direct contact?
7. How new is the jeep battery. Mine is less than a year old and having it replaced now under warranty. its a terrible battery.
Those are just my initial questions to help get you to an answer.
But I think the bottom line is you are getting a voltage reading from the Dometic WiFi app. So additional questions are needed.
1. Where does the WiFi App get its measurement from?
2. Have you opened your Dometic to get that exact location and measure the same voltage location? if no, then we might want to consider the fact that the app voltage read out may never be the same as an external measurement.
I chased this similar line of questioning when I installed mine and came to the conclusion.... I just want my Jeep to start when I get back....if I am late and the food goes bad...don't care, just want to get home. So I dumped the idea of hooking it up to the car battery entirely. Use a yeti and solar panels and I can be gone for as long as I want. But thats me.
If you are taking you readings from the actual rear connector of the fridge by some method and you know the losses related to the wiring and your meter (if any) you should be able to count on that measurement for your successful install.
Now for my experience with the Dometic Settings of High, Med Low kickoff. I don't believe the app is telling you the voltage at the terminal at the back of the fridge. I really think it s an internal voltage point who's number will be different. Again, I haven't torn one apart to verify so maybe you can let me know. However I have found that the fridge is far more sensitive to shut downs based on the thermal load and external temperature. Makes sense. Large loads require less frequent draws to maintain the temp thus make it easier for the battery to do its job. Less use, cooler battery. Cooler battery...better performance and ability to maintain its voltage.
So this is where our experiences are going to vary. Using the Yeti 1000 with setting in Hi... the fridge will go off at roughy 50% of battery life in the Yeti. On Low.... It will work until its down to about 5%. So unfortunately someone else will have to answer what is best for them on their car battery setups.
Given Dometic only provides four settings, its really going to be up to you as to your comfort level with each. I would just suggest starting on Hi....see if thats long enough for your excursions....if not....drop to medium...see that fits. If not....forget the car battery and get a different power source. Thats where I landed.
1. Did you use calibrated equipment for all your measurements including temperature while conducting the test. (was outside air temp and pressure the same for all measurements)
2. Did you test the temperature of the battery or the load at the time of the test.
3. Did you measure the resistance of the combined 40 feet of wire?
4. Did you measure the resistance of the wire with any terminals or connectors?
5. In your measurements did you include error variance for your measuring equipment?
6. What is the resistance of the voltage meter? Depending on type of voltage meter are you using? Inductive or direct contact?
7. How new is the jeep battery. Mine is less than a year old and having it replaced now under warranty. its a terrible battery.
Those are just my initial questions to help get you to an answer.
But I think the bottom line is you are getting a voltage reading from the Dometic WiFi app. So additional questions are needed.
1. Where does the WiFi App get its measurement from?
2. Have you opened your Dometic to get that exact location and measure the same voltage location? if no, then we might want to consider the fact that the app voltage read out may never be the same as an external measurement.
I chased this similar line of questioning when I installed mine and came to the conclusion.... I just want my Jeep to start when I get back....if I am late and the food goes bad...don't care, just want to get home. So I dumped the idea of hooking it up to the car battery entirely. Use a yeti and solar panels and I can be gone for as long as I want. But thats me.
If you are taking you readings from the actual rear connector of the fridge by some method and you know the losses related to the wiring and your meter (if any) you should be able to count on that measurement for your successful install.
Now for my experience with the Dometic Settings of High, Med Low kickoff. I don't believe the app is telling you the voltage at the terminal at the back of the fridge. I really think it s an internal voltage point who's number will be different. Again, I haven't torn one apart to verify so maybe you can let me know. However I have found that the fridge is far more sensitive to shut downs based on the thermal load and external temperature. Makes sense. Large loads require less frequent draws to maintain the temp thus make it easier for the battery to do its job. Less use, cooler battery. Cooler battery...better performance and ability to maintain its voltage.
So this is where our experiences are going to vary. Using the Yeti 1000 with setting in Hi... the fridge will go off at roughy 50% of battery life in the Yeti. On Low.... It will work until its down to about 5%. So unfortunately someone else will have to answer what is best for them on their car battery setups.
Given Dometic only provides four settings, its really going to be up to you as to your comfort level with each. I would just suggest starting on Hi....see if thats long enough for your excursions....if not....drop to medium...see that fits. If not....forget the car battery and get a different power source. Thats where I landed.
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