Etorque 48V batery

[WhereRU_A-A-Ron]

I was just mulling this over in my head this morning wondering what will actually happen when the system, battery, or both fail. I'm at 88,6xx and the e-Torque system has been flawless thus far - knock on wood.

Definitely keep us posted on this.

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[croppz]

I’m a yard manager for an LKQ salvage yard. Etorque batteries go for about 500 bucks here, used obviously. But just to give yall an idea

 

[Capt. Don]

I'm curious, were you still driving it around? Was the 12v battery keeping up or did you have to jump it?

They are not fun or safe to drive without the Etorque system working. Two months ago I had the 3.5 inch display instrument cluster fail (blank cluster) at 43K miles on our 2022 JLU High Tide. While I educated myself on options to fix, I drove it for about 1,000 miles. The eTorque system did not work for that period. No stop/start, no extra 130 lbs-ft under 2,000 rpm, OK. But also incorrect charging of the 12V battery. I installed a high quality Die Hard AGM battery to still have a dead battery the next morning. I tried to measure parasitic power loss after a one hour rest period and blew a 10 amp fuse on my VOM meter. Something was pulling a lot of electricity, possibly a short in the board for the instrument cluster. The Jeep could not sit for a day and a half with a brand new 12V battery and a good 48V battery, and still have at least 11.8V to start the Jeep. The Etorque system could not function properly without the dash cluster. With a salvage dash cluster from a same year V-6, same part number and 2,000 more miles ($145), everything went back to normal operation.
My answer to your question is that you need the Etorque system working properly with a good 12V battery and a good dash cluster with the voltmeter working. These three systems work together along with an intelligent battery monitor on the negative pole of the 12V battery. All that keeps you on the road safely.

 

[Gorpf]

https://www.facebook.com/reel/971004672347915/

 

[Zandcwhite]

Not good and if that's a real cost to replace, ouch.

E-Torque delete kits someone needs to make. Sooner than later.

I've said this since buying my '21 JLUR new. As reliable as the system has been it will fail at some point, as seen here. First failure I've seen posted also. And a failure at 95k seems like low mileage failure.

Used for $500, new for $1400, and generally good for another 100k miles. Do you realize how involved a delete would be? You have no charging system without the etorque. Your computer would need reflashed or replaced. The wiring for the bsg to charge the 48v, the DC to DC inverter from the 48v battery to charge the 12V battery, etc are all wrong. It's not a simple pull out the bsg and replace it with an alternator kind of swap. Then there's the extra cooling system. No it's not impossible, but you're likely looking at the same if not more cost than replacing the battery with a brand new one just in parts and 20x the labor of simply swapping out the battery. I don't think any of us are going to trust the rest of the electronics beyond 200k miles so you're doing a whole bunch of work for no gain in my opinion. This is why you'll probably never see a delete "kit" on the market.

 

[Capt. Don]

https://www.facebook.com/reel/971004672347915/

Did not appreciate this profanity laced Facebook link. For 130 lbs-Ft extra when I need it below 2,000 rpm, especially with the 4.56 gearing in the axles, I will gladly pay $600 (salvage) every 100,000 miles.

 

[gek]

Did not appreciate this profanity laced Facebook link. For 130 lbs-Ft extra when I need it below 2,000 rpm, especially with the 4.56 gearing in the axles, I will gladly pay $600 (salvage) every 100,000 miles.

I thought the link was fuckin' spot on.

 

[croppz]

Did not appreciate this profanity laced Facebook link. For 130 lbs-Ft extra when I need it below 2,000 rpm, especially with the 4.56 gearing in the axles, I will gladly pay $600 (salvage) every 100,000 miles.

Nobody told you to click the link man lol

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