Body Mount Bolts

[Sardaukar]

I hate the body bolts, a huge pain in my a$$. After carefully breaking the loctite, you have to break out the power tools. Won't get anywhere with a hand ratchet. I find I have to apply continuous downward pressure on the washer while unbolting, usually prying down with a large screwdriver. When putting them back in, strong upward pressure is needed as the bolt just spins. Eventually it catches and goes the rest of the way in. I'm usually using a hydraulic lift under the rock rails to hold them up while I'm doing this.

I've had to do this 3 times already and the rock rails for my wife's JT are in for powder coating right now (that's another story). I'll have to put them back on later this summer. Nothing looking forward to it.

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[LSJKU]

All good information shared here. And Tech Tim's video is the best at providing the correct method to get them out without breaking them.

As others indicated, those bolts are coated with a lot of thread locker from the factory. I just took my time removing them initially with a hand-held ratchet/socket. Started backing each one out until it got tight, then reversed direction a bit before continuing to back them out. I had to use a small hand-held pry bar on a couple near the end to finally get them to drop out. Don't use any air tools the first time you remove them, you could snap one in half when it gets tight backing it out. Just know, it takes quite a while to back each one out by hand.

Once they were out I cleaned them up with a wire brush and reinstalled them with an air ratchet, using only a small amount of Blue Threadlocker on each, and tightened them to spec with a torque wrench. Now I just use the air ratchet to both remove and install them with no fear of snapping one (torque wrench to spec). 5-minutes each side. I've had the rock sliders off twice since then to install other things. Easy peasy factory fix.

 

[LSJKU]

I hate the body bolts, a huge pain in my a$$. After carefully breaking the loctite, you have to break out the power tools. Won't get anywhere with a hand ratchet. I find I have to apply continuous downward pressure on the washer while unbolting, usually prying down with a large screwdriver. When putting them back in, strong upward pressure is needed as the bolt just spins. Eventually it catches and goes the rest of the way in. I'm usually using a hydraulic lift under the rock rails to hold them up while I'm doing this.

I've had to do this 3 times already and the rock rails for my wife's JT are in for powder coating right now (that's another story). I'll have to put them back on later this summer. Nothing looking forward to it.

Ha ha, now I know I'm a cheap-ass. I too have a hydraulic lift but it has a slow leak and eventually loses pressure. Instead of doing the right thing and repairing my lift, I supported the rock sliders on 5-gallon buckets with chunks of wood scraps.

I really should repair that hydraulic lift. But I don't use it to support anything when working under the Jeep, just lift it into place and put the jack stands under it. Se la vie!

 

[Micron Man]

Just a quick update to my Wrangler drama. I dropped it off this morning to get the RSE sliders installed, I told them, if using a ratchet instead of air tools takes longer, I will pay them for their time. This thing is a 30th anniversary present for my wife and thus far it has not turned out well. Regardless, last night I got underneath it and used a ratchet equipped with a breaker bar to slightly back out all four bolts needed for installation. One of the bolts, acted entirely different than the other three. As I was backing it out, I found I could wiggle it quite a bit, as if the nut is loose on the inside. However, it tightened up normally. as I backed out the other bolts, each of those remained solid during the process. I only backed the bolts out approximately a quarter inch, because the video attached to this thread indicated that is all as needed. I forgot to mention previously that the dealership told me that if the bolts break again, the cost is on me, which is about $3500 per bolt.

 

[LSJKU]

Just a quick update to my Wrangler drama. I dropped it off this morning to get the RSE sliders installed, I told them, if using a ratchet instead of air tools takes longer, I will pay them for their time. This thing is a 30th anniversary present for my wife and thus far it has not turned out well. Regardless, last night I got underneath it and used a ratchet equipped with a breaker bar to slightly back out all four bolts needed for installation. One of the bolts, acted entirely different than the other three. As I was backing it out, I found I could wiggle it quite a bit, as if the nut is loose on the inside. However, it tightened up normally. as I backed out the other bolts, each of those remained solid during the process. I only backed the bolts out approximately a quarter inch, because the video attached to this thread indicated that is all as needed. I forgot to mention previously that the dealership told me that if the bolts break again, the cost is on me, which is about $3500 per bolt.

$3,500 per bolt? Yikes! Where did Jeep source those bolts? Space Shuttle surplus? Even with welding and cutting, that's outrageous.

I hope it all works out for you. That's a mighty nice 30th anniversary present!

 

[TXSquid78]

$3500\per????? Efff that. Time to get frame mounted steps\sliders.

 

[Micron Man]

$3,500 per bolt? Yikes! Where did Jeep source those bolts? Space Shuttle surplus? Even with welding and cutting, that's outrageous.

I hope it all works out for you. That's a mighty nice 30th anniversary present!

Local dealer quote!! …..I was Blown away. Lucky they covered it this time, but was told, they won’t do it again. Apparently, to do the repair correctly, they need to lift the body off the frame……there are machines that can do it…I was told.

 

[Micron Man]

I followed the advice of @Tech Tim from @Northridge4x4 in this video and had no issues.

I cannot thank you enough for sending that video. I played it for the people at the shop and it helped immensely. About an hour ago I received a phone call that indicated they successfully installed the sliders. I will believe it when I see it, as they still need it for an additional day to install some skid plates. I want to thank everybody that provided guidance. I am a type A personality, as such, I do not do well when things do not go as planned. On another note, I assembled the EZ Lift Top today, it was not easy but mission accomplished, and that is a big deal for somebody like me. I haven’t tried it yet, but it seems like a high-quality product. As I said previously, I have never participated in a forum. I spent the vast majority of my life on the New York Stock Exchange. For those of you who do not know anything about Stocks, get a Schwab account. It is the only way you will actually build wealth. I highly suggest, if you have any disposal, income, buy MU, NVDA and/or DRAM. HOWEVER, DO NOT TAKE MY WORD FOR IT, DO SOME RESEARCH, , but buy stocks! This is my way of saying thank you to everybody that took the time to contribute.

 

[ag4ever]

To instal the RSE steps, you only need to drop the bolts 1/4”. The brackets will slide in the gap and you can tighten them up.

My bolts were about 6 weeks off the factory floor when I installed the steps, and they were TIGHT. I was worried I broke one nut in the frame as the bolt just spun. Luckily it tightened up with upward pressure. At that point I decided removing the bolts completely was stupid and just loosened them enough to slide the brackets in place.

Note, I did not opt for the skids, so I don’t know if that impacts the install method.

 

[azjl#3]

which is about $3500 per bolt.

Squeeze me??

I found the magnetic induction heater is my new secret toy, I've used it about 5 times after doing the body bolts on a wrangler, so pricey, but paid for itself. Run it until I can't touch the bolt, then remove.

 

[LSJKU]

To instal the RSE steps, you only need to drop the bolts 1/4”. The brackets will slide in the gap and you can tighten them up.

My bolts were about 6 weeks off the factory floor when I installed the steps, and they were TIGHT. I was worried I broke one nut in the frame as the bolt just spun. Luckily it tightened up with upward pressure. At that point I decided removing the bolts completely was stupid and just loosened them enough to slide the brackets in place.

Note, I did not opt for the skids, so I don’t know if that impacts the install method.

I wanted the RSE sliders/steps after reading lots of good stuff about them from users on the forum. But they were not central to my build, so I opted for fixed, heavy-duty tubular sliders (about 1/4 cost of RSE) that have a different mounting flange, with a hole in the middle of it. The bolts HAD to come out.

Optionally, the flanges can also be welded to the frame, but I don't see the need for that as I have already put the weight of the Jeep on them and they have held up fine. Plus, I would like to go to the RSE sliders later, and would have to grind off a lot of welds to do that. And I think it's best to avoid welding anything on the frame that is not going to be permanent; welding can affect the properties of the steel frame. For me, welding on the frame is a once-and-done deal. Then again, I could be totally wrong.

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