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Who is using the PAC interface on a 7" successfully?

sknyfats

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I cannot get the PAC to work without static/hum.

power is ran on drivers side, ground is to factory ground location, speaker wire is away from power, rcas are passenger side.

static is less when gain turned down. When using multimeter and setting gain to appropriate rms (for my 6.5’s that are 100 watts rms) I am sending only 60 watts and the static is insane.

spoke with pac on the phone, tried 3 different ones, had local shop debug install with different rca’s and other wires with no luck.

it appears for me it is the head unit sending a noisy signal out and my amp intensifying that noise via gain. I didn’t spend $1600 to be at low gain!
I hope the JL audio fix 86 will clean the head unit signal and correct my issue.
This is with the 7” head unit?
What other amps/speakers are you running all the way around?
Were new speaker wires ran for all speakers or do you have some factory speaker wire still being used?
Did you talk to PAC & troubleshoot or did your shop talk to them?
The PAC EQ is off?
What about rest of dip switch settings - where are they at?
You said “factory ground” is used - there are many spots that can be used. Which one & I know some with no issue have sanded/buffed metal contact to ensure best ground. Trying a different spot to ground should have been tried.
Only reason I ask these questions is because on this forum, someone had a similar issue - even after swapping out the PAC device for a DSP. Forget what the final resolution was.
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Lscardsfan

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This is with the 7” head unit?
What other amps/speakers are you running all the way around?
Were new speaker wires ran for all speakers or do you have some factory speaker wire still being used?
Did you talk to PAC & troubleshoot or did your shop talk to them?
The PAC EQ is off?
What about rest of dip switch settings - where are they at?
You said “factory ground” is used - there are many spots that can be used. Which one & I know some with no issue have sanded/buffed metal contact to ensure best ground. Trying a different spot to ground should have been tried.
Only reason I ask these questions is because on this forum, someone had a similar issue - even after swapping out the PAC device for a DSP. Forget what the final resolution was.
7” head unit
Alpine type r 6.5’s
Infinity kappa 3.5’s
All new speaker wire
Jbl stadium 5 amp
JL audio tw3 sub
Debugged with pac - tried EQ off, dips 1-3 off but tried 4v instead of 5.
Factory ground behind rear passenger quarter panel.
 
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RubiCoug

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the PAC is plagued with challenges unless 'perfectly' installed. It has possible issues with certain hardware, requires wiring perfection, and still yields mediocre results.

I really just don't understand why someone would pick this over a DSR1 or a JL Fix 86.... heck - speaker level inputs into a high quality DSP amp might even yield better results.
 

sknyfats

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7” head unit
Alpine type r 6.5’s
Infinity kappa 3.5’s
All new speaker wire
Jbl stadium 5 amp
JL audio tw3 sub
Debugged with pac - tried EQ off, dips 1-3 off but tried 4v instead of 5.
Factory ground behind rear passenger quarter panel.
I finally got around to installing all my stuff.
For my install, I am running the KTP-445U amp. Being a smaller Class D amp, I was able to tap right into the factory radio harness power & ground wires. For remote power, I used the 12v DC adapter in the front dash.
For my sub - which is mounted in the back of my 2 door - I drilled a couple of tiny pilot holes and used self tapping screws with about a 2" ground wire cable that came with a good amp wiring kit I bought from Crutchfield (most of the inexpensive Amazon wiring kits are garbage & safety risks!). For power to the sub, I ran a 10ga 17' from the rear of the vehicle down the drivers side, through the grommet that is easily removed/drilled and reinstalled, across the engine bay & directly connected to the battery. The remote line for the sub is connected to the 12v DC adapter in the rear & I changed its behavior by a fuse position swap to make it only on with ACC/RUN, not always one.
All of my wire splices were done with butt connectors & shrink wrap, or, T-Taps (for power/ground to factory wiring & for the 12v DC taps).
I'm also using the factory speaker wiring since my amp & speakers really don't dictate the need to run new higher gauge wire.
I did not use the blue remote wire on the Pac unit either. It is not connected to anything.
Lastly, on initial powering up of the system - after I did the 2 sleep cycles - I DID have some strange noise/a hiss, but flipping the dip switch #2 down to change it from 5v to 4v cleared it up 100% immediately. My gains are set moderately for both front & rear. I think around the 50%, maybe a little less. I set them based on tuning at 3/4 volume and backing off at distortion.
I'd really check all your grounds for anything audio related and even check speaker wire connections, ensuring they're "good" and no where near any power runs you've made.
My system - including paired with a cheap Rockville 10" powered sub ($99 - RWS10CA) - sounds AWESOME. Unlike what some others have said with their setups - it WILL wake the neighbors and annoy them if I crank it up too much with bass heavy music. Works great with doors / top off. Only "minor" issue - and expected - is some music is too bright, but I'm able to EQ it just fine. I haven't replaced my 4" speakers and don't think I will because of how well the system sounds as it is right now.
Not sure if any of the above will help - but I have a successful install that was fairly straight forward with no major problems.
 
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Tvolcheck

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I used the fosgate DSR1 to integrate. Mine works flawlessly.
Hello. Is the dslr1 still working well for you?Any issues with it? I am having a “hiss” out of the tweeters (using a PAC and turning gains way down) and I have 2 days to decide whether to send it back to Crutchfield or keep it. I do not know a lot about setting up dsp’s but I believe if it works like some say it does then it would sound awesome and I could turn the gains up a little to get more out of my aftermarket speakers.
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