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Back to Big Bend (It still rocks)

ObiMatt87

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My wife and I just got back last night from a 6-day trip out to Big Bend National Park. It was my second time, but my wife's first, and I had really wanted to take her out there after the awesome experience I'd had back in November of 2021 with some fellow Jeep buddies. We'll be moving elsewhere (eastern half) in the state next year after I retire retire and will never be closer than we are now (7 hours without stops), so put together this trip and timed it for the week before Spring Break kicked off across the country. Leaving on a Sunday morning meant less traffic than hitting prime rush hour in a city of 2 million, and the drive out was smooth sailing via I-10 and down through Alpine to the eclectic "town" of Terlingua.

This time, rather than tent camping, we elected to stay in one of the many unusual lodging options in the area (like RV parks, older motels, geodomes, A-frames with clear peaks, a cave room in the side of a mountain, yurts, casitas, tiny homes, retrofitted permanently placed retro travel trailers, the mansion of the former turn-of-the-century mercury mine owner, etc). We chose Fossil Knob Ridge (http://fossilknobridge.com/), a collection of 6 different designs units made of converted shipping containers sitting on a ridge on the NW edge of Terlingua. We stayed in Chisos House because it was the biggest (40 ft/20 ft containers in an L-shape) and had a full kitchen. It was awesome and was the only unit to have one whole side as glass sliding doors, giving us an incredible view of the Chisos Mountains in Big Bend across Terlingua. All the units have their individual views and features that make them stand out, but we made a great choice. All the units have red lighting under the eaves to save night vision and not infringe on the Dark Skies status of the area. Though it was a full moon the entire time we were there, there were certain periods at night or very early morning when we were in between moon and sun, and once again I was blown away by the beauty of a bajillion stars not washed out by city lights.

For those who have been there, you know how huge the Big Bend area is. Throw in Big Bend Ranch State Park and Christmas Mountain and it's ginormous. You have to be intentional and plan out what you want to see/do based on the number of days you have available, as that will drive your priorities. You also need to seriously plan your water, food, and gas. For this round our 6 days were split between travel from SA and back and across the entire spectrum inside and outside the national park:

Day 1: Travel from San Antonio to Terlingua via I-10, US 67 to Alpine, and TX 118 to Terlingua.

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ObiMatt87

ObiMatt87

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Day 2: Big Bend Ranch State Park area. Leaving Terlingua to the southwest, we stopped by the excellent Warnock Visitor Center and then drove on down through the bougie golf resort village of Lajitas and along the US-Mexico border divided by the Rio Grande. Beautiful views and several pullouts for great pics. We ate a picnic lunch at the Contrabando Day Use Area on the Rio Grande, where remnants of a former movie set used in a range of westerns, as well as part of Brooks and Dunn's "My Maria" video were filmed. Nice spot. We went on to hike around The Hoodoos, unusual rock formations that stand out as some of the many unusual formations in both parks. Then it was on to Fort Leaton, an outpost residence of days gone by that is in amazing condition and kept up very well by the state. We ended the day's outing with a hike into the Closed Canyon slot canyon. Very cool little hike. We closed the day with dinner at Terlingua's Starlight Theater, a restaurant that literally was a theater back in the mercury mining days. Their Horni Toad margarita is killer, with jalapeno-infused tequila used in the mix. I've got to figure out how to match it at home.

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ObiMatt87

ObiMatt87

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Day 3: Christmas Mountains, Old Maverick Rd, and Santa Elena Canyon. Something I found out AFTER I had been to Big Bend in 2021 was the Christmas Mountain Trail. An hour's drive from Terlingua to the northeast, you arrive at Terlingua Ranch Lodge (https://terlinguaranch.com/), an RV/motel setup out in the middle of nowhere that has been a favorite of many for decades. The lodge (literally) holds the key to the gate at the trailhead of Christmas Mountain Trail, a single lane shelf road that leads to the highest point in the Christmas Mountains (https://maps.app.goo.gl/Q8GWMrFCmNUXs3te8), where you get the most incredible views south over the entire Big Bend region. The mountain is actually "owned" by Texas State University, but they allow access (with a call to the Lodge for a reservation) by an individual full-size high clearance vehicle (or a few in a group) a 4-hour window in the morning and another group a 4-hour window in the afternoon. Call early, as each time slot is reserved very early on. I had read about it and watched multiple YouTube videos taken by people who had run it and knew it was something I wanted to do. We took the morning 8-12 window, thinking it would be clearer in the morning than afternoon (which was correct, was the heavy winds in the area blew a ton of haze the whole time we were in Big Bend, but especially in the latter part of the day). As with most off-road trails, weather impacts them over time, and apparently back in November they had massive rains that had really washed out a lot of the trail. The first third of the way up, in particular, was especially eroded, and there were a few pucker factor stretches and switchbacks where it was barely wide enough for the Jeep and a steep drop-off downhill. It was totally worth it, and a highlight of the trip that we'll remember forever.



When we came down and returned the key, we chose to eat at the Bad Rabbit Cafe there at Terlingua Ranch Lodge. Great service and outstanding burgers and fries. We then went on from there all the way down into the national park and drove the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to Santa Elena Canyon, an incredible slice by the Rio Grande through the rock. You park and then hike above/along the river about a mile into the canyon. It's very cool, and one of the biggest draws of the park. As the day wound down, rather than reversing back across the Ross Maxwell route, we took the Old Maverick Rd, which requires high clearance for a handful of places, but is largely dirt/washboard gravel road that cuts your return time to the NW park entrance by about 30 mins. It's a cool drive and fun, plus, the views back toward Santa Elena Canyon are amazing. In 2021, our group did this route on the way into the canyon and the morning light made for some amazing pictures.

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ObiMatt87

ObiMatt87

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The rest of the day after Christmas Mountain.

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ObiMatt87

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Day 4: Chisos Basin. This is the heart of the park and a must-see for multiple reasons. The drive up into the Basin is awe-inspiring, with an incredible vista as you approach the rock basin that surrounds the national park lodging, visitor center, and hub for multiple trails. Our national parks across this awesome nation have some amazing sights. This one ranks up there, as it's just so unique. Our primary focus on this day was to hike the 5.6 mile The Window trail, which brings you from the central area down about 1000 feet in elevation to The Window, a slot cut through the solid rock by water over the millennia, and dropping over 500 feet into the desert below (when there is water). The view out across the park to the west is amazing. It's a fairly tough hike, especially in the heat we had, so you have to bring plenty of water and plan for a challenging hike back up, but it is totally worth it. Just amazing. This is God's country, folks. We wrapped the day with dinner at Long Draw Pizza, which was as excellent as it had been 4 years prior.

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ObiMatt87

ObiMatt87

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Nice shots of Christmas Mountains, looks like the Old Maverick Rd trailhead was a great choice. How's the road holdup on Old Maverick, I know some of those washouts can be nasty after heavy rainfall.
Overall, not bad. Occasional washout areas and major dips, but nothing a Wrangler can't handle. Was surprised to see Honda CR-Vs and other lower clearance vehicles going for it to get to campsites. Heard from the Rangers yesterday on the way out that a Mazda got stuck on one of the trails somewhere and had to be pulled out.
 

SadRobot

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Great photos! Looks like an awesome trip. Did you see any bears out there? I was so worried I was going to run into a bear on my hike to The Window I probably didn't enjoy the hike as much as I wanted to.
 
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ObiMatt87

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Day 5: Far eastern edge of Big Bend NP. In 2021, our group didn't get to the far east side of Big Bend NP, other than the Hot Springs, so wanted to check things out. We hit the former 1920s-30s hot springs spa site first thing as we moved to the far southeastern part of Big Bend. Part of it was time of day, but also time of year, but there were a ton more people there than when I'd last visited the site and soaked in the waters. Totally worth your time to go to this highlight, particularly later in the day when it is less crowded and the temps are perfect. We moved on from there to Rio Grande Village, which is the furthest east main site of the national park. Had a picnic lunch at the visitor center, went on a hike on the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail (totally worth it), which leads you over boardwalks through wetlands out to an awesome perch that overlooks the Rio Grande and both sides of the border. A young Mexican on horseback called, "Hola, empanadas y tacos!" to us from the other side. We didn't take him up on it, but still kind of cool. On the way there and back you go through a tunnel through a hillside that is cool. Finally, we wrapped our time up in Big Bend with a run up Old Ore Rd to Ernst Basin. This was the terminal end of mining ore being hauled up in that area to a collection point, then on via wagons and trucks further to be shipped out, but it is also the site of an awesome hike that takes you up a unique canyon to multiple pools of water caught in depressions carved out of the rock over millennia. Cannot imagine what it is like with heavy rains through there, but it had been ultra dry, so only pools remained for now. It was a hot hike, but it is totally worth your time. It's ~5 miles up Old Ore Rd. We then headed back down to the main park road and drove west and out the park to Terlingua, where we had a later dinner at DB's Rustic BBQ. Was a bit disappointed with this one. The brisket was good, but the smoked turkey was pre-formed and sliced, so that was strange. Tasted good, but definitely did not originate from there. Came back to our lodging for a beautiful evening out on our porch area under the stars with good drink in hand as we wrapped the trip up.

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ObiMatt87

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Great photos! Looks like an awesome trip. Did you see any bears out there? I was so worried I was going to run into a bear on my hike to The Window I probably didn't enjoy the hike as much as I wanted to.
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Great photos! Looks like an awesome trip. Did you see any bears out there? I was so worried I was going to run into a bear on my hike to The Window I probably didn't enjoy the hike as much as I wanted to.
Did not this time. Last time we saw two cubs with their mama. Fortunately, at that time there were a lot of people on the trail making noise with us. The cubs were across the draw on the hillside. Mama was nearby, but thankfully she was not in the mood for a snack and no dumbass decided to go for a close-up...
 
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ObiMatt87

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Just got back from a weekend over in Big Bend with my 2022 Gladiator Rubicon, and let me tell you, it still puts a huge smile on my face. Those vast open desert roads are basically made for this thing, and the views... well, pictures just don't do it justice.
Exactly. Could spend a huge amount of time out there and never get bored. Love these machines...
 

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ObiMatt87

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Nice shots of Christmas Mountains, looks like the Old Maverick Rd trailhead was a great choice. How's the road holdup on Old Maverick, I know some of those washouts can be nasty after heavy rainfall.
Most of it was easygoing, though a good chunk was heavy washboard, same as it was for me back in 2021. Still, a fun run, and definitely saves time getting back to Terlingua for a cold one!
 

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Did not this time. Last time we saw two cubs with their mama. Fortunately, at that time there were a lot of people on the trail making noise with us. The cubs were across the draw on the hillside. Mama was nearby, but thankfully she was not in the mood for a snack and no dumbass decided to go for a close-up...
I woke up so early to do the hike I was the only one out on the trail. I was talking to myself and making noise like a crazy person. Eyes darting all around lookin' for bears. I do not like bears.
 
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ObiMatt87

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I woke up so early to do the hike I was the only one out on the trail. I was talking to myself and making noise like a crazy person. Eyes darting all around lookin' for bears. I do not like bears.
I bet they would like you, SadRobot, and they told me in person that they are looking forward to your return...
 
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ObiMatt87

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Day 6: Terlingua to Panther Junction Visitor Center in the park, up US 385 to Marathon, then US 90 through Del Rio (Home of my birthplace at Laughlin AFB) up to San Antonio.


Bottom line: This is a bucket list trip for anyone serious about seeing this nation's beauty. The vast vistas, sunsets/sunrises, starfield, ever-changing geological formations, massive variety of fauna due to the unique nature/location of the park, etc, makes it a true destination for all who love America. Highly recommended.
 

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This trip is on the books for early '27 and your trip journal is a great intro to the area. Thanks for the detailed write-up and great pictures!
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