Mopar Tow Hitch & Trailer Wiring Install (DIY how-to writeup)

Figured I would post a thread for the Mopar hitch & wiring install I just did on a 2024 Sahara. Alot of the information & videos out there are outdated. There are several variables that make it confusing if you are new to the scene including:
3 different stock bumpers
Sport style
Sahara / Rubicon style
Steel

2 different Mopar hitches
With 2 nuts welded on 68251844AB
With 4 nuts welded on 68240905AA
Plus an "accessory" version that includes the bolts & receiver cap for almost 3x the money 82215209

2 different Mopar wiring kits
Thru the interior 82215398AB / 82215896 (Discontinued)
Along the exterior 82216359AA

I removed the entire rear bumper because it is easy enough to do & wanted to for wiring purposes anyway, although not necessary for the hitch only. Remove the small plastic guards at the rear of each rear wheel well that cover the bumper ends (3 bolts each with 8mm heads). Unplug the wiring to the bumper in rear driver wheel well; slide the gray tab on the connector up then press down on the black tab to release the connector.


Remove the (2) hex head bolts & (2) nuts on each end of the bumper circled below with 16mm tools. This is another difference / change. Several videos show the inner fasteners as bolts while my style bumper, in 2024, had studs & nuts. The studs make it more difficult as the only way I found to get at the nuts was a ratcheting, flex head wrench.




On the Sahara / Rubicon style plastic bumper remove the two bolts with 10mm heads that hold the bumper to the center bracket. The bolts with 8mm heads do not need to be removed.


Then pull the bumper (easier if you open the tail gate first to get the spare out of the way) & you will see the center bracket still attached to the Jeep with (2) huge M12 bolts. Remove it last.


I used the hitch 68251844AB that has two nuts welded on intended for the Sahara / Rubicon style plastic bumper. The Sport style would technically call for the 4 weld nut version but no reason this one could not be used with some loose nuts. Same with the steel bumper. If you are unsure what style to get select this style; it will work on all with extra loose nuts while the 4 weld nut version won't fit Sahara / Rubicon style plastic bumpers without tossing the stock center bracket.


The Sahara / Rubicon style plastic bumper uses a center bracket held on with two huge M12 bolts you can also reuse with the hitch. If you do not get the kit with included bolts you will need (2) Mopar 06104246AA bolts (M12x1.75x110) that they want nearly $30 each for. I found a set of (4) cheap on eBay to avoid the hardware store. Below is the (4) new 06104246AA I used along with the (2) stock bolts & the center bracket. Note there is a difference in that the (4) bolts the hitch calls for uses hex flange heads while the (2) stock bracket bolts have a loose retained washer at the head. I would think either is fine.


Install hitch with (4) bolts & the bracket toward the rear then tighten to 90 N-m (66 lb-ft). 66 lb-ft isn't much in the grand scheme of things, but seemed like forever with an incredible Hulk arm before the torque wrench clicked for some reason. My hitch tube was welded in crooked so I had to reposition it so it looked straighter.

On to the wiring. The only wiring available now is the external route style 82216359AA. Even if you order the older interior route kits it will be superseded to the new number & style; other than buying a NOS kit on eBay sitting on shelf or something. The new kit is no harder to install than the aftermarket options. All require removing & messing with the tail lights & connectors as well as running a power wire up along the frame to the battery. The only drawback to the Mopar kit now is the approx 4x price premium. The instructions are pretty vague, want you to do unnecessary work, & contain flat out errors.


I did not so much as even disconnect the battery, though I made sure not to connect the new harness to the battery either until everything in the back was buttoned up. Remove both tail lights (pull red tab, then depress black tab to release connector) & send the new wiring harness down the passenger hole.


The instructions say to remove the rear passenger wheel well liner--do not, completely unnecessary. I started trying to remove one push fastener, it broke, I stopped, there was no point. I did pull the rear passenger wheel though to make it easier. Route the forward portion of the harness along the existing wiring on top of the frame rail below & inside the wheel well liner. Cross under the brake lines.




Keep going forward.


Keep going. I zip tied it to existing wiring where possible. I also bought some extra zip ties that anchor in holes like the included Mopar ones & used those throughout the install where I wanted additional anchor points.


And going. This is about at the front passenger foot well.


Go to the outside of this where the frame bends up behind the front wheel.



And this is inside the front passenger wheel well looking up. The instructions say to cut the plastic rivets at the front fender flare & remove the front wheel well liner--do not. Completely unnecessary. It flexes plenty. You can see the wiring coming out /down. Now head up toward the daylight you will see. Note the flat black plastic box with heat tape is the bottom of the aux battery box.




Ta da. Do not hook it up yet.

Looks like a solid install, thanks for the detailed write-up - the part about the studs vs bolts on the newer bumpers is good to know since a lot of the YouTube videos still show the old setup.

Stick the black box in the passenger tail light well.


Run the other leg of the harness across the TOP of the rear frame cross member to the hitch & driver tail light. Secure it with the anchor zip ties in the kit. This is why I removed the bumper. I suppose you could do this if you reached up & felt where the holes were.




Hook up the wire harness in the driver tail light well. Contrary to all the videos, do NOT pull the inner portion of the connectors completely out. All you have to do is lightly pull them about half way & the wires slide in easy, then snap them back. The instructions attempt to show this.




Clean up the wires in the tail light wells with the included pinch seam anchor zip ties. Make sure the tail lights go on without squishing the wiring or connectors rattling against the body. It took me two tries to get this to my liking on the passenger side. Three or four times on the driver side--that side wanted to smash the wires if you are not careful. Luckily I devised a way to remove & reposition the seam pinch zip tie anchors without ruining anything.


Finally connect the +12V to a stud inside the fuse box. The instructions show on the second from the front but I could not get the cover to snap back on easy. I used the front most stud because it was lower. I just landed the wire on top of the existing wire / nut then put another nut on top of everything. Even then placement was key to get the fuse box cover to lock in.


I landed the (-) to the unused stud on the passenger fender as the instructions show.


I went to check operation at the 7-pin with my multi meter & found nothing worked! Or so I thought. Problem was I was using the diagram in the instructions which was completely WRONG. I noticed the diagram molded into the 7-pin cover was different & everything seems to work following that.

Why's the underside of your Jeep so damn clean? I can't work under any of our Jeeps without getting a face full of dirt and crud. Lol.
I went with the much cheaper non-Mopar hitch and wiring. Definitely not difficult, but running wires all the way from the back to the front is tedious.

I went with a Curt hitch for the higher rating, which came with new bolts. Install is the same, though I didn't remove the bumper. Nice job.

Great write up and pics! Thanks for sharing.

So for a 2025 sport, with the plastic rear bumper (with parking sensors) it’s a different bumper from the Sahara/Rubicon plastic bumper?

Jeep is still new even though a 24 so still clean.

Sport with park sensors cant say i know what that gets for a bumper. Should be easy to
Look underneath and see if you have the bolted center bracket or not though. I think alot of aftermarket hitches use all loose nuts to accommodate every configuration

Thanks for the write-up and pics. Glad mine came with the hitch and wiring from the factory, as I hate running wires through nooks and crannies! By the way, my 24 Rubicon came with steel rear bumper and the hitch looks the same.

I’ve got the Willys with stock hitch & wiring plug. Eventually I will replace it with a full hitch. You can purchase a class III from U-Haul for $100. I’m not sure if they still have it but it used to have a lifetime warranty. That included if it was damaged in an accident, they replaced it for free.

In Europe we have 13pin sockets.