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Crowbar

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I bought the Mopar extended front LCAs for like a hundred bucks and that improved caster/steering feel tremendously.

It’s dumb that Jeep uses standard Rubi LCAs on the XR.
This would explain why the new XR I drove last weekend felt like it was on the verge of going into full blown death wobble every time it hit a bump on the freeway. This was a new XR on a dealer lot.
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Jtphoto

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This would explain why the new XR I drove last weekend felt like it was on the verge of going into full blown death wobble every time it hit a bump on the freeway. This was a new XR on a dealer lot.
Not always the case though. My XR has 2.5” lift springs and stock arms and it’s just fine. It seems to be more a case by case.
 

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Not always the case though. My XR has 2.5” lift springs and stock arms and it’s just fine. It seems to be more a case by case.
Probably didn't help that the dealer had the tires inflated to 45 psi
 

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Probably didn't help that the dealer had the tires inflated to 45 psi
That would be 100% the problem right there. 35s should only be at 28psi no matter what the door jam sticker says.
 

ldstruckn

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Mine drives perfectly at interstate speeds. I can cruise with just one finger on the wheel
 

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Same. I run my tires at 37 psi as per sticker, my steering stabilizer is crunched and I still have no issues. Mine drives pretty smooth and pretty much how I would imagine a MODERN Jeep to drive, not as smooth as a normal suv but not as bad as an empty 1 ton set up for towing. I think it’s more of a tire balance thing honestly
 

Jww108

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Ordered in Dec 2021 and started building a trailer to do some Overlanding. The trailer was almost done when we received the Jeep in June.

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Zandcwhite

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Not always the case though. My XR has 2.5” lift springs and stock arms and it’s just fine. It seems to be more a case by case.
Just fine and the way it should with proper caster are 2 very different things. There is no way a JL with 2.5” lift has caster within spec, and that 4° minimum is too low in my opinion. Our 1st JL was ok after the 2.5” spacer lift and 3.5° of caster, but much better when I added adjustable lowers and dialed caster up to 7°. When we picked up our XR, I already had the LCA’s waiting. Bone stock it had 4.2° of caster, and drove better when I adjusted that up to 7.5°. It wasn’t bad before, but it was much better with more caster. Of course it’s now on 3.5” lift, but still drives better than stock thanks to proper caster in my opinion.
 

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Just fine and the way it should with proper caster are 2 very different things. There is no way a JL with 2.5” lift has caster within spec, and that 4° minimum is too low in my opinion. Our 1st JL was ok after the 2.5” spacer lift and 3.5° of caster, but much better when I added adjustable lowers and dialed caster up to 7°. When we picked up our XR, I already had the LCA’s waiting. Bone stock it had 4.2° of caster, and drove better when I adjusted that up to 7.5°. It wasn’t bad before, but it was much better with more caster. Of course it’s now on 3.5” lift, but still drives better than stock thanks to proper caster in my opinion.
Wanna bet, this isn’t my first rodeo. There is more to it then caster angles and to that point if you just throw on longer LCA you missed your own point. The only way to properly correct the geometry is with geometry correction brackets anything else is just a compromise.
 

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Zandcwhite

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Wanna bet, this isn’t my first rodeo. There is more to it then caster angles and to that point if you just throw on longer LCA you missed your own point. The only way to properly correct the geometry is with geometry correction brackets anything else is just a compromise.
Geometry correction brackets are their own compromise, but they are far better than doing nothing about the dreadfully low caster of a stock xr, let alone a lifted jeep. I guarantee that any xr or jl that is lifted will drive better with 6+⁰ of caster than it does with 4⁰ or less by doing nothing to address it. Is it mandatory? Not at all. Is it a huge improvement? Every time. Add in the fact that just about every aftermarket lca will have better joints or bushings than factory and be significantly stronger than the stock lca's and I see nothing but positives by starting there. Even if I were going to run drop brackets I'd still want aftermarket lcas. I've never myself, nor have I seen or heard of anyone, who prefers the way any vehicle handles with less than 4⁰ of caster vs 6⁰+, but maybe you're the exception? Many people with adjustable control arms have played with caster to see where they like it and every one of them ends up at 6⁰ minimum. Some like myself prefer more like 7.5⁰. There's a reason why nobody sets there's at less than 5⁰ on purpose.
 

Jtphoto

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The only compromise with Geometry brackets is a bit of ground clearance but really once you get up to 37” tires it’s not that big of a deal. And serious rock krawlers will have them all armored up anyway.

Yes, 6 degrees is best but 4.7 degrees is within factory spec. And as long as I can drive highway speed and let go of the wheel without wander I’m fine with that. Pushing your caster any more than 6 starts to compromise your pinion angles. I’ve experienced driveshaft vibs from too much Pinion angle. Not so much with the factory driveshaft but it will take out the joint, but different story with a double cardan driveshaft. And I do put on a lot of miles. I have Geo brackets to put on when I feel the need but not likely unless I go to taller springs.

As for bushings, Actually there isn’t a better longer lasting bushing out there than factory, but they definitely won’t flex as good as aftermarket. Aftermarket bushings get chewed up and spit out by all the road salt and crap up here yet factory bushings will last for years. …. Different things work for different people
 

Jww108

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Loving the trailer! Did you do a build thread for that thing?
No, not yet. Very new to FORUMS in general. Most of my time is on one of many projects. I will try and figure it out and upload pic of the build.
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