XR with 37's and Spacers - What am I missing?

[Chip]

They're longer ones provided in the spacer lift I bought. Most cheap spacer lifts come with extended links

What spacer kit did you buy? I bought the Terraflex 1.5" front leveling kit and didn't get any links...

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[Wrong_astronomer]

They're longer ones provided in the spacer lift I bought. Most cheap spacer lifts come with extended links

Which lift kit do you have ? Thanks

 

[rmenley]

Excellent question Chip so I hope RMENLEY or others weigh in. I haven't figured that out yet. I'm not sure how much longer, if any, XR sway bar links are than on a regular Rubi. I know my new shocks will allow for more droop and don't want to get into a position my links end up inverted. Figured I'd get the other items installed and see how things look. Will go from there to get longer links if needed. Can move backs to front and get new backs if my JK lift is anything like the JL build.

Sorry for such a late response - and I’m sure it’s already been answered. But sway bar links are about an 1.25 longer in the XR

 

[Papajohn]

1.5" spacer F/R, 1" bumps F/R. 40s. You'll have no issues with 1" spacer and 37s.

Your choice for a longer shock is a good one, the XR coils are hilariously long and could easily support a 14" travel shock. Go for a 5-6" lift shock to get 12" of travel.

XR suspension with a 1" spacer, a 12" shock and Mopar LCAs are the best bang for the buck in suspension travel.

Would you mind telling which spacer lift kit you used and where you got it? I’m trying to find something in that area and I’m pretty much finding 1” or 2”. Closest I’ve found is Quadratecs 1-3/4”. The terraflex 1.5 actually has a 2” in front which is what I’m trying to avoid. Thanks

 

[Chip]

Ok, y'all - I just got done rigging mine up my front like ny.glt56 has done. I used the longer Mopar LCA's, 1.5" Terraflex front spacers, and MetalCloak RockSport extended travel shocks. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the swaybar links and I was able to find a pair of 12" links from a buddy on loan for me to test with.

I'm on original XR 35" BFG's yet and didn't think I'd need to add any bumpstop yet, so I tried it in the ditch out front and I'm happy with it. Of course, the 12" links are too long, so after measuring, I'll be installing some that will be in the 9" to 10" range. Also, with the stock 35" BFG tires, no added bumpstop looks necessary. Eventually, I'll be putting on 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers and at that point, I'll add bumpstops as necessary.

I can confirm the factory XR springs are plenty long - still seated tightly at full droop in my testing. The longer LCA's may have helped with straight line driving a slight bit, It's a very small difference if any, but mine drove pretty good from the factory anyway.

 

[joethewrangler13]

Would you mind telling which spacer lift kit you used and where you got it? I’m trying to find something in that area and I’m pretty much finding 1” or 2”. Closest I’ve found is Quadratecs 1-3/4”. The terraflex 1.5 actually has a 2” in front which is what I’m trying to avoid. Thanks

Inquiring minds want to know!

They're longer ones provided in the spacer lift I bought. Most cheap spacer lifts come with extended links

We're all still wondering what spacer kit you used!

 

[Chip]

An update on mine after 7500 miles with the longer Mopar LCA's, Rocksport shocks and Terraflex 1.5" front spacers;

It still drives great! The Rocksports might be a little on the soft side and I'm thinking I might want to switch them out for something else when my 35" BFG's wear out and I install 37" STT Pro's or Nittos, but they work acceptably well with the 35" BFG's right now.

One other detail - Final length on the Clayton Overland swaybar links came out to 9.75" center to center.

 

[richk225]

Probably too late but curious, if the goal was 37s why not save the $4K on the XR package and use that money to buy the right lift/suspension for 37s instead? As far as the spacers, the rear is where the rubbing occurs with 37s so you might want to plan on at least 1" of spacers in the rear. If you want to avoid spacers and keep the center of gravity as low as possible, another option is replacing the inner fenders and gaining 2"-3" of tire clearance that way.

One good answer, changing the gearing to 4:56

 

[Chip]

One good answer, changing the gearing to 4:56

Don't forget steel knuckles, thicker axle tubes and a tiny bit better brakes. For someone not wanting anything bigger than 37" tires eventually and isn't going to be doing anything crazy, it's a good base to build on.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

One good answer, changing the gearing to 4:56

Not when you want/need to regear to 4.88 or 5.13.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

Don't forget steel knuckles, thicker axle tubes and a tiny bit better brakes. For someone not wanting anything bigger than 37" tires eventually and isn't going to be doing anything crazy, it's a good base to build on.

Haven’t seen a stock aluminum knuckle break yet, doesn’t matter how thick the tube is if the FAD is the breaking point, and the stock JL Rubicon brakes are a lot better than the stock JK brakes that people have run 37s on for over a decade.

 

[Chip]

Not when you want/need to regear to 4.88 or 5.13.

4.88 factory available to order with the XR package and 3.6L

 

[richk225]

Not when you want/need to regear to 4.88 or 5.13.

37"S AND 4:88`S OR 5:13`S that`s a lot of gear unless he plans on crawling all the time.

 

[UNC Rubicon]

Not when you want/need to regear to 4.88 or 5.13.

You can add 4.88s from factory for an msrp of $995 and when factoring in 6% under invoice that drops it to $842 for factory warrantied gears which is less than labor alone for a gear install at nearly any shop.

 

[UNC Rubicon]

37"S AND 4:88`S OR 5:13`S that`s a lot of gear unless he plans on crawling all the time.

37s and 4.88s is essentially mathematically equivalent to 33s and 4.10s.

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