I believe it’s only available on the manual, but don’t think they ever released the manual but pretty sure 4.56 is only option with auto transmission
And spend another $1500 regearing the rear to match. The XR wheels and tires are worth at least an extra $500 on the marketplace over the standard Rubicon take offs. Factory warranty on your rear axle goes out the window with the regear, obviously you won't have any front end warranty with the aftermarket axle up there. If you're going straight to aftermarket front axle it makes more sense to skip the Rubicon all together and go straight to tons on a sport or willys. The idea that paying the Rubicon upcharge makes sense but the XR is too much is lost on me. For me it's either the most built, factory warrantied, ready for 37's stock or full build. Of course I'm not afraid to admit that I love my stitched leather, seat heaters, adaptive cruise, etc too go stripped model build so we wheel our XR all over the country just like we did the standard Rubicon before it.
Have to agree with all of this and would add that XR wheels/tires would bring $1-$1500 more than standard in today’s market. So gears and knuckles alone were worth $2500-$3k to me from factory. Running heavy 37s on either model will soon require other mods (steering, BJs, etc) anyway, the lift is nothing when plans to go 37s.
Our stock BJ lasted 35k miles on 37's on our 2019 JLUR, the stock steering was still on it at 62k when it was stolen. Definitely wasn't rock bouncing it, but we ran a few tough trails. The Rubicon trail I think is the only badge missing from these pics.Have to agree with all of this and would add that XR wheels/tires would bring $1-$1500 more than standard in today’s market. So gears and knuckles alone were worth $2500-$3k to me from factory. Running heavy 37s on either model will soon require other mods (steering, BJs, etc) anyway, the lift is nothing when plans to go 37s.
You can get 3.6l auto and 4.88s with XR package.
I ordered mine late December and it was not available. Darn it.
I'm going the same route as you with longer shocks, spacers and the longer Mopar front LCA's. My question is what did you do for longer front swaybar end links? I assume you changed yours for longer or disconnecting ones?1.5" spacer F/R, 1" bumps F/R. 40s. You'll have no issues with 1" spacer and 37s.
Your choice for a longer shock is a good one, the XR coils are hilariously long and could easily support a 14" travel shock. Go for a 5-6" lift shock to get 12" of travel.
XR suspension with a 1" spacer, a 12" shock and Mopar LCAs are the best bang for the buck in suspension travel.
Excellent question Chip so I hope RMENLEY or others weigh in. I haven't figured that out yet. I'm not sure how much longer, if any, XR sway bar links are than on a regular Rubi. I know my new shocks will allow for more droop and don't want to get into a position my links end up inverted. Figured I'd get the other items installed and see how things look. Will go from there to get longer links if needed. Can move backs to front and get new backs if my JK lift is anything like the JL build.
The rears to the front works on the JL also. On our XR I ordered teraflex rears and moved the rears up front initially. Then i bought the icon fronts as they are the cheapest front adjustable links that are also spherical bushings on the ends for even less bind. Well worth the $100 in my opinion.
