Resistor was the first thing I tried. Even if it did work there’s no room in the plastic fender to safely mount it. Where did you put it?Wouldn't adding a resistor in-line solve it? I did the swap with HR turn signal and used the resistor. No errors, get DRL and turn signal (this is a Sport).
Zip tied it to a support above and to the side of the bulb location.Resistor was the first thing I tried. Even if it did work there’s no room in the plastic fender to safely mount it. Where did you put it?
I’ve already tried that. I tried to reset the ecu via “Soft reset” and “Rapid power shutdown” well I’ve tried all of the ones in the lights conversion menu. But those didn’t work. Off to try disconnecting the battery now.THere is this, I have no idea what it does. Maybe message the app developer.
click on the link - it should start right where he's zip tying the resistor.That would’ve been good but resistors don’t even work for me for some reason. Can you send a picture of exactly where? Or is it on the video.
Unfortunately that's how switchbacks work when used as DRLs. It's because the turn signal circuit is activated when DRLs are on. That's the amber part of the switchback bulb. There is no way around this other than to disable DRL. I tired every combination available in the JSCAN app to try to get my switchbacks to work the way I wanted, with no luck. I now have DRL completely disabled. I don't like how they look any other way. One additional thing to note. I did run my switchbacks with the amber DRLs for a few days. On longer drives I would get a bulb out warning. Switchbacks don't like having the amber turn signal portion lit constantly. It causes the bulb to overheat and you'll get the bulb out warning on the dash.As I have it right now, my fender lights and halo DRL are on and white when I have the light switch in the parking light section, but when I change the DRL location to turn signal, my DRLs turn Amber, but I have LED switchbacks.