Would you get the the rock-trac t-case for your rubicon if you could do it all over again?

MrMischief

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All I'm really trying to do is get as close to the best snow and ice performance as I get with my current WJ with quadratrac, a true full time system. It's hands down the best vehicle I've had for winter conditions, point and shoot it just goes anywhere. I'm not big on the idea of my new 60k wrangler having trouble in areas where my 5k WJ gets through.
I had a XK with quadadrive II, by far the best snow/ice vehicle I have ever had, especially once I paired it with KO2s. My JL is good, the traction control system helps a lot. While I don't feel that I need anything else, it is just no where near the level that the XK with QDII was. I would expect that the 4 auto would be a help in closing that gap, but I suspect your WJ is still going to be better. The only other thing to help is the JL's traction control system may be better, but I still don't think that would get it to match the WJ. (I believe the WJ ended in 2004? I may be mistaken but that is a long time ago in terms of tech development).
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jellis4148

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The Rock track in the 392 is different than you get in a V6 Rubicon. In the 392 it is in AWD, and you put it in part-time 4wd. In the V6 you can be 2H, 4 Auto, 4 Part-time, and 4Lo. Answering your question, I would love the have the Rock track in my 19 for the light snow times. Plus you get CV axles in the front, and they have do better when you flex, and turn.
 

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All y’all that don’t like the auto 4wd due to possibility of clutches wearing out must have declined the limited slip rear axle as well, right? And the manual transmission too, right?
 

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I will always order the one with the Auto function from hereon forward. I'm swapping it into my Diesel JT if I can do it when I go to do D70's with RCVs.
 

jellis4148

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All y’all that don’t like the auto 4wd due to possibility of clutches wearing out must have declined the limited slip rear axle as well, right? And the manual transmission too, right?

The clutches will be fine as long as you're not one of those people that put it in Auto, and leave it. Every time I see a vehicle like that I cringe. Using it just when needed is not a problem.
 

Ridgway Jeeper

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All y’all that don’t like the auto 4wd due to possibility of clutches wearing out must have declined the limited slip rear axle as well, right? And the manual transmission too, right?
Yes, I skip clutch type LSD, they do wear out, rather quickly in most cases. I did go manual trans but it is 100% driver controlled and easier to replace if needed than either a differential clutch or transfer case clutch.
 

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The point is that you are adding a wear item to the inside of the TC. How fast that wear item fails is yet to be determined.
Personally, I'll always opt against having a clutch pack that's only purpose is the convenience of not needing to shift a lever. Clutches add more and more abrasive contaminants during their lifespan, which accelerates the wear rate of everything else in that case.

At the end of the day, everything comes with gives and takes. Each one of us just needs to go with whatever option provides them with more gives.
 

Headbarcode

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All y’all that don’t like the auto 4wd due to possibility of clutches wearing out must have declined the limited slip rear axle as well, right? And the manual transmission too, right?
Clutch wear is inevitable, not just a possibility. The only clutch I would want to own is the dry type in front of a manual transmission. The abrasive dust is at least contained in the bell housing, rather than circulated to other components in the lube oil.
 

Vinman

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Clutch wear is inevitable, not just a possibility. The only clutch I would want to own is the dry type in front of a manual transmission. The abrasive dust is at least contained in the bell housing, rather than circulated to other components in the lube oil.
Automatic trannies have been using wet clutches for a bunch of decades now with relatively good success
 

Headbarcode

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Automatic trannies have been using wet clutches for a bunch of decades now with relatively good success
Forgive me, I'm a bit sleep deprived. Your right, wet clutches are difficult to fully avoid when they are an essential component to a units operation.
 

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Automatic trannies have been using wet clutches for a bunch of decades now with relatively good success
The thing about the dry clutch in the manual and the wet clutches/bands in the automatic is that they tend to go from open to fully engaged and stay that way. Sure, you're constantly engaging/disengaging in stop-and-go traffic. But unless you don't know how to drive a manual, you don't get a ton of slippage in any of those clutches. At most, a few seconds per shift.

A limited slip on the other hand is constantly "slipping". Even if you're going exactly straight down the road the variance from just tire pressure or tread depth will induce some motion in the clutches. And even driving through Kansas on the interstate, you run into quite a few curves. That constant motion really wears down the limited slip clutches over time.
 
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Caveman044

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The fact there isn't a general consensus on the durability of the full time transfer case leads me to believe it's perfectly fine. Same goes for the CV's. Sure a stick could puncture the boot but then upgrade to RCV's and never worry about it again. I still haven't made up my mind but I don't think there is a wrong choice no matter how you use your jeep.
 

Yogi1956

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Am I missing something? My 21’ Rubicon has 4:1 Roc-Trac HD Full Time 4WD System but you have to manually put it in the full time position , nothing “auto” about it. It transfers traction between front and rear as needed once you’re in full time. Is that the Auto part?

I know I was dreading losing the short wheelbase on our 13’ 2 door for maneuverability but with the CV joints the turning radius seems the same or better other than the extra length but u-turns, parking etc are as good or better than the 2 door.
 
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Caveman044

Caveman044

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Am I missing something? My 21’ Rubicon has 4:1 Roc-Trac HD Full Time 4WD System but you have to manually put it in the full time position , nothing “auto” about it. It transfers traction between front and rear as needed once you’re in full time. Is that the Auto part?

I know I was dreading losing the short wheelbase on our 13’ 2 door for maneuverability but with the CV joints the turning radius seems the same or better other than the extra length but u-turns, parking etc are as good or better than the 2 door.
Yes that's what makes "auto". Good to hear that you like the CV's.
 
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