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Would it make sense to add lockers/LSD to both axles of a JL Sport?

rustyshakelford

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Please point me to some documentation re: the two wire harness.



I agree. Not everyone needs or wants a Rubicon. That much is clear.

However, I have seen too many posts from members who learn about the benefits of sway bar disconnects and lockers when they are unable to keep up with their friends who have them.

Then comes the unexpected and expensive process of upgrading their Jeep.
Im not endorsing this particular site, it has the part numbers and you can purchase thru your dealer or whoever you see fit

brett

https://www.allmoparparts.com/sku/77072413.html
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Jamrock

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Okay...

So I guess you connect one end of these to the axle. I would expect you to connect the other end to some kind of button on the Jeep's dashboard. How does that work?

What power supply does it use? The third party aux switches attach to the battery and then power the devices to which they are connected. How does this work?


Jeep Wrangler JL Would it make sense to add lockers/LSD to both axles of a JL Sport? 1612016571080
 
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Odyssey USA

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Please update here when you get a chance to review it.
I went ahead and ordered it with the mindset I’m willing to take a total loss on it if it’s not any good. My concerns are safety, function, and durability. Being able to keep the stock sway driving characteristics is a plus if this product holds up.
 

Odyssey USA

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Well I guess my mechanics proff at school was wrong then. I was taught they were better. I think you forget there is a preloaded spring in the mechanism. In the case of an ice patch the torque will go to the tire with more traction, not to the tire on ice (as long as it has a bit of traction), that would be an open diff. Of course if traction is minimal such as a tire in the air the clutch packs are not enough to handle the situation. I think what you define as "catching posi" is what happens when too much acceleration is provided, which makes the driveshaft rotate too fast and can render the LSD dangerous. The combination of traction control and LSD is actually quite good. You can check the paper I posted below which explains how an LSD ia greatly beneficial on snow and ice.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAEegQIMBAF&usg=AOvVaw37ezFa7_j5ScscJWrNbRuO
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAEegQIMBAF&usg=AOvVaw37ezFa7_j5ScscJWrNbRuO
Coming from a long muscle car and modern performance car background, unless that preload is high or the frictions are chattering when you turn, you’re likely that that differential will need spin to start to lock up. Those were a pain because... they were essentially lockers in the turns and tires would chatter. A LSD is better than an open but it’s more of a gentle nudge unless something is broken. As they wear, which can be quickly, they become less effective at what they were able to do.
 

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I would highly suggest building your sport online with what you want then do your research on cost of upgrades and include it in price. Build out a Rubicon to your needs and then compare the two in price. Make your choice from there. I purchased a bare bones JK and modified it to my needs over 10 years and was very capable without sway bar disconnect and lockers but I have been craving harder terrain that will involve having those. Ordered a Rubicon last week and stoked to have everything I could ever need out of the box. Less time wrenching and more time wheeling! Do what is right for your budget first and foremost!
 

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I would highly suggest building your sport online with what you want then do your research on cost of upgrades and include it in price. Build out a Rubicon to your needs and then compare the two in price. Make your choice from there. I purchased a bare bones JK and modified it to my needs over 10 years and was very capable without sway bar disconnect and lockers but I have been craving harder terrain that will involve having those. Ordered a Rubicon last week and stoked to have everything I could ever need out of the box. Less time wrenching and more time wheeling! Do what is right for your budget first and foremost!
I traded for my Jeep for economic reasons at the time. I sure wish I could have purchased a Rubicon but even though I can go get one now, it doesn’t make sense to take the loss. I’d definitely recommend to start out with a Rubicon.
 
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I would highly suggest building your sport online with what you want then do your research on cost of upgrades and include it in price. Build out a Rubicon to your needs and then compare the two in price. Make your choice from there. I purchased a bare bones JK and modified it to my needs over 10 years and was very capable without sway bar disconnect and lockers but I have been craving harder terrain that will involve having those. Ordered a Rubicon last week and stoked to have everything I could ever need out of the box. Less time wrenching and more time wheeling! Do what is right for your budget first and foremost!
Pretty much what I've done.

The Rubicon comes out about $6000 more. So, I'll go for the Sport S optioned the way I like and maybe get some aftermarket items like a front locker and sway bar disconnects. I'm not into lifts and huge tires; maybe 33s when the OEM tires are done but no bigger than that.
 

WhitneyWillys

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Pretty much what I've done.

The Rubicon comes out about $6000 more. So, I'll go for the Sport S optioned the way I like and maybe get some aftermarket items like a front locker and sway bar disconnects. I'm not into lifts and huge tires; maybe 33s when the OEM tires are done but no bigger than that.
Good call! Remember, there are other non mechanical upgrades too. I got a hard trunk cover, a mesh bikini top, a tailgate table etc as well.

As a result of this thread, I once again asked myself ... if right now, I had a stock Rubi, what would I different? What would I do with those lockers? Would I have ventured on the the hard rock crawling trails, all by myself, without having first upgraded to 35s? Probably not. So if I possibly won't be getting 35s anyway for pavement drivability reasons, those lockers would be sitting fairly unused. Essentially I still can't convince myself I would put a Rubicon to good use. Happy with the Willys.
 

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Pretty much what I've done.

The Rubicon comes out about $6000 more. So, I'll go for the Sport S optioned the way I like and maybe get some aftermarket items like a front locker and sway bar disconnects. I'm not into lifts and huge tires; maybe 33s when the OEM tires are done but no bigger than that.
As long as you understand the modifications you will need to make, go for it. Don't be the guy who posts about regretting his purchase. Those posts are just sad.
 

Uhdinator

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Had a TJ Rubicon (first year) Now have a JL Sport. I ve gone the same places with both.
Do some time with your JL off road and you will see what it can do.
Brake Limited Diff function works in all modes 2wd, 4H, 4L. You will see what it can do as it works very well. The only thing you want to be mindful of is when you can't move/are spinning........
keep a little throttle applied and give it a few seconds to engage the brake on the spinning tire(s).
Don't mash the gas...........as when it starts to transfer power to the tire(s) with traction it can launch you. BLD works very well. You'll probably be all set with just adding a sway bar disconnect that will help keep your tires on the ground in rough terrain.
I have been amazed with the JL Sport capabilities and very confident with the same after getting use to how the BLD function works. I don't have a sway bar disconnect either.
2" spacers, better/longer shocks and 295/70/17 (33's) is all I did.

Jeep Wrangler JL Would it make sense to add lockers/LSD to both axles of a JL Sport? IMG_6204.JPG
 
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Nice looking Sport. đź‘Ť
 

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Had a TJ Rubicon (first year) Now have a JL Sport. I ve gone the same places with both.
Do some time with your JL off road and you will see what it can do.
Brake Limited Diff function works in all modes 2wd, 4H, 4L. You will see what it can do as it works very well. The only thing you want to be mindful of is when you can't move/are spinning........
keep a little throttle applied and give it a few seconds to engage the brake on the spinning tire(s).
Don't mash the gas...........as when it starts to transfer power to the tire(s) with traction it can launch you. BLD works very well. You'll probably be all set with just adding a sway bar disconnect that will help keep your tires on the ground in rough terrain.
I have been amazed with the JL Sport capabilities and very confident with the same after getting used to how the BLD function works. I don't have a sway bar disconnect either.
2" spacers, better/longer shocks and 295/70/17 (33's) is all I did.

IMG_6204.JPG
Are those black sidewalls on the other side?
 

Call911man

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I'm not looking to lift or go over 33" tires. Other than the lockers/LSD and maybe additional skid plates, it'll remain stock. Heck, my thinking is that a pure stock Wrangler Sport is pretty darn capable off road. I'm just looking to up its game somewhat. Having driven a lot of off road miles with open diffs, the thought of having power to all four wheels is very appealing.
In my opinion, the E-lockers that come with the Rubicon are fantastic. Fully open diff until you hit the button. If I had a sport, I would seriously consider finding Rubicon take-off axles. You get the wider axle, it moves the tires to the edge of the fenders which I think improves the look and Electric lockers. You can buy a harness that allows you to trigger the lockers with a simple switch/switchpod. You also get 4.10 gears and the axles are Advantek M210 and M210. A quick search will likely find them within a few hours drive. Often, shops haved swapped in Ultimate Dana, Dynatrac, other larger axles. Price will be very close to the cost of upgrading the sport axels and you get stronger parts.

Here is an example of what I found near me.
  • Complete F and R Rubicon axles w/ trackbars and tie rods. I also will include the factory pigtail for wiring them in - $3500 for the pair
  • Complete Rubicon suspension (Control arms, shocks, etc..) - $200
  • factory driveshafts (F and R) - $150 for both
  • Electronic sway bar - $150
  • Factory Rubicon rock rails - $100
  • Factory bumpers (F and R) $100 for both
 

travvaller

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Ummm, I have 2018 JLU Sport. It has Dana 44 in rear and Dana 30 up front. I am running 35's with factory gears right now. I have added major weight to the front and rear in the way of bumpers, winch and my 35 inch spare out back on tire carrier. Who the heck says adding lockers is a bad thing on any 4x4 unit be it truck, jeep or whatever? I have added ARB air lockers front and rear on my Jeep because they are needed in more instances than one might imagine. So, you mean to tell me the guy with a Chevy truck, (let alone a Jeep which is useless to ranchers), in Wyoming with lockers is not necessary? Ever driven over broken fields of ice on slight uphill and get stuck? I have noticed, Jeep users and buyers are all Rockheads, meaning they think rock crawling is the only purpose to have lockers and its bullcrap. I live in Seattle and it is very necessary to have them in even minor trailing up here. Some of the wettest conditions on earth. Rubicons are over rated and the electric lockers suck on them because in order to get out of lock, especially using the sway bar disconnect, is a nightmare. You have to rock the jeep back and forth in order to fully disengage and realign sway bay when not needed for suspension flex. I will be putting a manual release mechanism from terra flex when I update my suspension to a terra flex 4.5 lift with 4.88 and 37's. Yawl need to do your homework and reassess you priorities. Unless you live next o Moab or Rubicon trail, leave the pie in the sky aspirations of rock crawling to the hardcore trailers. They are a niche and most of us have to live in the regular real world on a daily basis with our jeeps. This means 95% daily street use, 4 percent overlanding, look up definition, and maybe 1% crawling rocks.
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