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Would it make sense to add lockers/LSD to both axles of a JL Sport?

Zandcwhite

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Jeep Wrangler JL Would it make sense to add lockers/LSD to both axles of a JL Sport? RosegardenHill


REALITY VS MYTH... So, a set of lockers and a lift kit will not get you where you want to go. In your mind, your Rubicon is like the rock crawler, but ummm, no its not. And well, the rock crawler will get u a divorce unless it was your wife's idea. So, there really is no debate. We expect too much from our vehicles in general. The build I am involved in is finished from the axles up. Took 3 years. It is tasteful and functional, but sets me apart from rest of the wrangler field. Next step, hopefully within 3 years, only because of cost, is aftermarket Dana 44, Terra Flex 4.5" lift with all proper up rated running gear components from yokes to drivesahfts, race shocks the whole number. And I still don't believe it will rock crawl w any proficiency. No, crawling is best left to a
Jeep Wrangler JL Would it make sense to add lockers/LSD to both axles of a JL Sport? RosegardenHill
old CJ5 w fully customized suspension purpose built to have fun on rocks. So, if you roll, side swipe or any of the other stoopid things happen on the trail come up, your not stuck repairing the vehicle you street drive 95‰ of the time.
Vehicles get side swiped on the street every day, I didn’t buy a Jeep to hide it in the garage out of fear. Nobody is arguing it’s a built tube buggy or rock bouncer, but it makes a pretty good crawler. The tube buggy would likely lead to a divorce the 1st day the wife had to drive it to work, as that is one of the purposes the Jeep serves well. Obviously you can build a dedicated trail rig for less, until you add in the tow rig, trailer, and tickets you’ll rack up when you run point to point trails and have to drive that buggy back around on the street. The Jeep is comfortable, good looking, and even fun to drive to and from work, on road trips, through desert washes, and even on the rocks. Bad lines and shitty drivers will get anything stuck or at least beat to shit. There’s a reason why so many Tacoma’s on the trails look like a soda can that’s been stepped on and yet Jeep’s come off those same trails with perfect sheet metal and paint, a combination of driver’s skill and giving a damn about the vehicle because you spent more than the change from your couch cushions on the purchase.
Jeep Wrangler JL Would it make sense to add lockers/LSD to both axles of a JL Sport? 77075995-CA6D-4DA7-BED8-3B95F12A182D
 

Speed331

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As someone on here once said, "A stock sport can take you places that will scare the Sunday out of you"

Here is an excellent example of what the BLD can get you through (albeit with a great driver).

Bone stock JK Sport with open diffs and stock tires. And keep in mind the BLD is even more refined on the JL. I have a '20 2 door with open diffs and have gone up some steep, narly loose rock hills without any hesitation in the system kicking in. Slow and steady throttle and it climbs like a mountain goat.
Definitely add disconnects though- best bang for the buck mod to start with...
 

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I wish i could have bought a rubi but it was out of my price range for my 2nd weekend toy. I paid $33k for my V6 JLUS with auto and lsd. No way a rubi can be had for anywhere close to that. Would have been about $12k for a rubi with auto. And now when i price one with a few things id want, its about $48k (newer, higher pricing). Plain jane V6 rubi with auto is about $45k now.

ive done many trails while on rubi suspension and wheels/tires. (Damn near stock). Only ran into “needing” a locker a couple times and was able to drive my way out of it each time (with spotters help). I still plan to add lockers eventually, one way or another. Looking at aussie up front for now with my lsd. Maybe a detroit later or arb for the rear. I dont plan to do any hardcore trails. I have done some pretty wild trails as it is and been fine. 35s certainly helped.
 

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I would love the simplicity of True Tracs if they were available for out axles. Going on the 4th model year now. Last I checked, they do not have a fitment for M series axles.
Wow, I found this hard to believe given how many Jeep’s JL’s there are running around with these. Looked it up and nope, just like you said.
 

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BattleBorn

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Upgrading my Dana 30’s to some Currie 60’s front and back for 11g’s. Was going to get 44’s but after regearing trussing and changing shafts I’d be in pretty close to 10 g’s so why not spend of the extra money and get a way better product.
 

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Question... Isn't the sport rear LSD axle stronger than the Rubi rear axle? Same axle housing and shafts right? Only not as wide. Doesn't it being shorter make it stronger?

Also what's the difference in axle housing between the Dana 30 front ( m186) and the Rubi d44 front? Most wouldn't go over 37s on the Rubi stock axle and 35s seems to be the high mark for the d30s. If you add the rcv axles shafts on the sport it seems you can safely run 37s too, just not sure about the axle housing difference.

I don't really count the Rubi suspension as a Worthwhile upgrade, every other Rubi owner ditches it for an aftermarket lift. Also I see more and more Rubi owners ditching the electronic sway bar disconnects.

The real benefit to the Rubi imo is the transfer case, the gearing and lockers imo. Also the extras like leather seats and the 8.4 screen.

And that's not a take a jab at the Rubi, at the time of purchase if I had the extra loot I definitely would have gone Rubi instead of sport. However I'm perfectly content with my sport and to build it slowly over time. I kinda like that when it's all done it will be a bit of a sleeper too.

Too each his own. Buy what you can and what you like or what makes sense for you.
 

DanW

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Question... Isn't the sport rear LSD axle stronger than the Rubi rear axle? Same axle housing and shafts right? Only not as wide. Doesn't it being shorter make it stronger?

Also what's the difference in axle housing between the Dana 30 front ( m186) and the Rubi d44 front? Most wouldn't go over 37s on the Rubi stock axle and 35s seems to be the high mark for the d30s. If you add the rcv axles shafts on the sport it seems you can safely run 37s too, just not sure about the axle housing difference.

I don't really count the Rubi suspension as a Worthwhile upgrade, every other Rubi owner ditches it for an aftermarket lift. Also I see more and more Rubi owners ditching the electronic sway bar disconnects.

The real benefit to the Rubi imo is the transfer case, the gearing and lockers imo. Also the extras like leather seats and the 8.4 screen.

And that's not a take a jab at the Rubi, at the time of purchase if I had the extra loot I definitely would have gone Rubi instead of sport. However I'm perfectly content with my sport and to build it slowly over time. I kinda like that when it's all done it will be a bit of a sleeper too.

Too each his own. Buy what you can and what you like or what makes sense for you.
Not sure where to start, but I'm in 3 Jeep clubs and maybe 1 out of 100 or even more than 100 ditches Rubi axles for Dana 60's. Those that do are very hard core and trailer their Jeep or are making a show Jeep. That said, I've seen a Sport and Sahara owner do the same. In fact, I'd say I've seen more Sport or Sahara owners do that than Rubi owners. Part of the reason is they didn't see the point in buying the Rubi, knowing they were going to mod it that heavily.

Jeep claims the Rubi's Dana 44's are strengthened. I've always guessed that the rear Dana 44 in the Rubi and non Rubi is similar, but the front on the Rubi is also a Dana 44, while the non-Rubi's get a Dana 30. There is no doiubt that the 44 is stronger than the 30. But that is not at all saying the 30 is weak. How are they stronger? Not sure. Maybe housing thickness? Stronger/larger rings/pinions? Axle shafts? I dunno. There are other experts here that can chime in on that.

As for the sway bar disconnect, the only people I've seen ditch them are either in JK's or have gone so extreme with lifts and suich that they no longer work with them. The JL's sway bar disco is proving to be much more trouble-free than the JK's was. I did have trouble with my JK's disco after about 120k miles. I put a low mileage used on on it and it worked for awhile but I'm now having issues with it. But I'll fix it because it, to me, is even more beneficial than the lockers. I use mine all the time. We'll see if the JL's is more durable long-term as they age. But otherwise, it appears to be better sealed than the JK units. I deeply value the ability to disconnect and connect at the push of a button. After 14 years of living with it, I just won't give it up.

So, what are the Rubi advantages? You can rank them yourself, because everyone's needs are different. But here they are:

1. Lockers, front and rear.
2. Dana 44 up front.
3. 4:1 transfer case
4. Sway bar disco.
5. Slight lift.
6. Better off-road shocks. (The stock Rubi shocks are actually very good. On my JK, they were still good when I swapped them out at 100k miles. No sign of fatigue or failure, no seepage, no issues. Just faded paint.)
7. 33" tires from the factory, soon to be 35's as an option.
8. More aggressive tires, with the exception of the Willys and Moab.
9. High front fenders. (Not sure that's really an advantage, but I do like the looks. But after while, I don't really notice it, even when sitting next to my JK.)

I've bought 2 Rubis (JK and JL) and am very glad I did. BUT, I promise you I would have just as much fun with a base Sport. A Jeep is a Jeep, and It'd take me a hot minute to start making it my own after getting it home from the dealer. And I can tell you a base stock Jeep, unmodified, will surprise most people with what it will do in the hands of a capable and experienced driver.
 

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Well I've never been anywhere where I needed lockers. I guess I am not hardcore enough, good for my wallet.

Last year I was so bored I was about to ditch money on ARB lockers and compressor setup. I decided to invest in Google stock instead, it was fairly low then and just starting to go up and spent a bunch of cash on tech stocks. Pretty glad I paid myself instead of buying lockers I dont really need.

One of the biggest advantages of the rubi IMO are the 4.10 gears if you wanna go 35s. I went 33s so the 3.45s are fine. The sport axles are plenty strong. I have the rear 44.
 
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DadJokes

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The new Dana 30 has larger diameter and thicker wall axle tubes. (Same as the Rubicon) I’m unsure if there are other changes or whether there is other parts commonality with other axles.

The Advantek 35 has a lightened and larger diameter ring gear (than previous Dana 35). It also has the same axle tube diameter and wall thickness as a Rubicon. It is a new and stronger “Advantek” 35 than the previous generation Dana 35. From experience, if you change the differential to a 32 spline, you can run standard width Advantek 44 equal length axles in the Advantek 35. All of the axle tube seals and bearings are shared with the standard width Advantek 44 as well.
 
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DanW

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The new Dana 30 has larger diameter and thicker wall axle tubes. (Same as the Rubicon) I’m unsure if there are other changes or whether there is other parts commonality with other axles.

The Advantek 35 has a lightened and larger diameter ring gear (than previous Dana 35). It also has the same axle tube diameter and wall thickness as a Rubicon. It is new and stronger “Advantek” 35 than the previous generation Dana 35. From experience, if you change the differential to a 32 spline, you can run standard width Advantek 44 equal length axles in the Advantek 35. All of the axle tube seals and bearings are shared with the standard width Advantek 44 as well.
That is good to know because I know of folks with the older 35 in the JK who got the "JK Smile" running 35's on them. Heck, I've even heard about Rubi Dana 44's in JK's that either got the "smile" or outright broke the housing running 35's or 37s. That's why I haven't run larger than 33's on my JKUR.

I'm planning on ordering my wife a 4 door Sport in the next year and she wants the lift and 35's, so I'm glad to hear that it was strengthened this way.

So the next question is out of curiousity. Why the need for the new 44 on the Rubi JL, if the 35 is just as strong? Is it because it has to accomodate the locker?
 

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I'm planning on ordering my wife a 4 door Sport in the next year and she wants the lift and 35's, so I'm glad to hear that it was strengthened this way.
Do you plan to regear the Sport to facilitate the 35's? Some people have said the the Sport feels a little sluggish on pavement with them.
 

DadJokes

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That is good to know because I know of folks with the older 35 in the JK who got the "JK Smile" running 35's on them. Heck, I've even heard about Rubi Dana 44's in JK's that either got the "smile" or outright broke the housing running 35's or 37s. That's why I haven't run larger than 33's on my JKUR.

I'm planning on ordering my wife a 4 door Sport in the next year and she wants the lift and 35's, so I'm glad to hear that it was strengthened this way.

So the next question is out of curiousity. Why the need for the new 44 on the Rubi JL, if the 35 is just as strong? Is it because it has to accomodate the locker?
It’s not just as strong in the pinion/ring gear spatial relationship or size aspect in addition to the stock axle shafts area. Stock for stock, the 44 is stronger. I don’t think an Advantek 35 could ever be upgraded to match or best a 44 in strength in all aspects to be clear.

I think I will be great with mine though from seeing what others have accomplished and the abuse the Advantek 35 took before it failed (only axle shafts or tubes so far, no ring gear/pinion that I’m aware of.)

I’ll have RCV shafts up front that are guaranteed from breakage up to 37’s. The rears are 32 spline 44 Yukon shafts possible due to the Ox locker differential. I’m pretty sure I’m good to go for a long time with 4.56 gears and 35’s.
 
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DanW

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It’s not just as strong in the pinion/ring gear spatial relationship or size aspect in addition to the stock axle shafts area. Stock for stock, the 44 is stronger. I don’t think an Advantek 35 could ever be upgraded to match or best a 44 in strength in all aspects to be clear.

I think I will be great with mine though from seeing what others have accomplished and the abuse the Advantek 35 took before it failed (only axle shafts or tubes so far, no ring gear/pinion that I’m aware of.)

I’ll have RCV shafts up front that are guaranteed from breakage up to 37’s. The rears are 32 spline 44 Yukon shafts possible due to the Ox locker differential. I’m pretty sure I’m good to go for a long time with 4.56 gears and 35’s.
Good deal. At this point I don't know anyone with 35's that has broken the Advantek D35. I think we may have a couple in the clubs with 37's and haven't heard of any issues, either. These clubs, btw, do more than go for ice cream socials. They get out in the wild, so I know they've put theirs through the test a few times, at least.

For my wife, I'll be putting light weight 35's on it and she'll do light off-roading at most. (I may test it out a few times, though!) I'll be putting C rated KO2's on there. They only weigh about 64lbs, so they shouldn't put much stress on the components.

And thanks for your insights on these axles!
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