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Worth trading in my 3.6 for the 3.0??

andrew8404

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I’ve had the pleasure of driving my Rubicon Gladiator 3.6 for the past 9 months. It’s been great with mopar lift, 37s, winch/bumper, and rack/tent. But we recently moved out of the city and now have a little bit of a commute and fueling up twice a week sucks. It’s just the inconvenience of it. So I casually researched trading it in for a 4xe JL but ultimately decided the diesel was the better choice. Contacted my dealer and they are offering me 55k for my Rubicon (Paid 49 for it and would have 9k in equity) but can’t keep front bumper/37s/ and mopar lift. But I get a new JLURD 2k below msrp and a little better mileage and power for over landing trips and commute. My monthly payments would only be 5 dollars more then what I pay now. The only bummer is losing out on the truck bed for overlanding trips and semi starting over on the build. Usually it’s just my wife and I plus dog for overlanding. Still have my tent and can sell the gladiator rack for a JL rack. Would just be lacking rims/tires and suspension. Probably wouldn’t do 37s either to save money on the commute. What do you guys think? Worth trading in or no??
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JeepVT

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I’ve had the pleasure of driving my Rubicon Gladiator 3.6 for the past 9 months. It’s been great with mopar lift, 37s, winch/bumper, and rack/tent. But we recently moved out of the city and now have a little bit of a commute and fueling up twice a week sucks. It’s just the inconvenience of it. So I casually researched trading it in for a 4xe JL but ultimately decided the diesel was the better choice. Contacted my dealer and they are offering me 55k for my Rubicon (Paid 49 for it and would have 9k in equity) but can’t keep front bumper/37s/ and mopar lift. But I get a new JLURD 2k below msrp and a little better mileage and power for over landing trips and commute. My monthly payments would only be 5 dollars more then what I pay now. The only bummer is losing out on the truck bed for overlanding trips and semi starting over on the build. Still have my tent and can sell the gladiator rack for a JL rack. Would just be lacking rims/tires and suspension. Probably wouldn’t do 37s either to save money on the commute. What do you guys think? Worth trading in or no??
I love my JLURD with 3.5" lift and 37s. Wouldn't trade it for anything.....unless I was commuting. Then I'd get a 35s and maybe 2" lift. Awesome engine sure to be a collectors edition soon
 

ECP

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There has been a lot (and I mean a lot) of debate on whether a diesel will save you money.

I think the consensus is that do not buy the diesel to save money. There are people out there that have certain driving styles that will benefit from the diesel and save money after 60/100/150k miles, but overall I think its sound advice not to do it to save money. First, there is the $6k buy in (engine and trans) and then diesel may be more expensive than regular gas in your area (double check).

What is awesome is the range you get - almost 500 miles on a tank depending on how you drive. The torque as well (although I haven't had time to test it).

Be prepared for sticker shock on oil changes. Dealer is $200+. DIY is around $100. Plus additional items like the fuel filter every two oil changes. And DEF.

Read through the forums. Its great data but you may be even more confused as people from both camps will come out - 1) get a diesel, its awesome1 love it! 2) don't get a diesel, its a problem. unproven. history or problems.

I love mine. Diesel is about 20cents more per gal on the East Coast that I've seen, but there also is the cool factor.

Oh - also, diesel pumps suck as the diesel is sticky and the handles always smell like diesel so your hands smell like diesel. I've though about buying disposable gloves just for this.
 

Tread4Lo

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I'm in the same ballpark, but my commute is only 2 miles to work (roughly 10 miles a day). The 3.6 is great for what it is, but it's not great on the gas mileage for sure. 18 mpg's in town is a lie. I have a MY22 on order with the diesel.

Filling up won't be fun as the tank is smaller, but hopefully you will get more mileage out of the diesel. In town, I get about 300 miles a tank. So you may not save any time here. I consider DEF a non-factor. 2.5 gallons last roughly 3k miles (easy enough).

Maintenance cost do go up. Though if you are anything like me, you do your own so they do go up but not astronomically.

To @ECP point on cost. People keep saying the $6k cost. On the new MY22,s diesel is only $3k more than the 2.0/auto and $2k more than the 3.6/auto. Also, MY22 the diesel is only $5k option.
 

ECP

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To @ECP point on cost. People keep saying the $6k cost. On the new MY22,s diesel is only $3k more than the 2.0/auto and $2k more than the 3.6/auto. Also, MY22 the diesel is only $5k option.
Oh, cool. I have a MY21, so I was referencing that.

One other issue I've seen (but does not apply to me) is that the diesel does not like "short" drives so it can regen? I do a lot of long drives (>1hr) so I guess it has time to do its thing.

one more point on a different topic: the diesel requires specific aftermarket parts that are not as readily available as on the Pentastars (i.e. lift kits). The jury is still out on whether you need diesel specific items or can use a regular kit.
 

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andrew8404

andrew8404

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I love my JLURD with 3.5" lift and 37s. Wouldn't trade it for anything.....unless I was commuting. Then I'd get a 35s and maybe 2" lift. Awesome engine sure to be a collectors edition soon
Exactly the route I was thinking of going 35s and 2inch lift if that.I hear the diesel is already 1.5 inches taller then base rubicon’s?? In that sense maybe just new shocks.


There has been a lot (and I mean a lot) of debate on whether a diesel will save you money.

I think the consensus is that do not buy the diesel to save money. There are people out there that have certain driving styles that will benefit from the diesel and save money after 60/100/150k miles, but overall I think its sound advice not to do it to save money. First, there is the $6k buy in (engine and trans) and then diesel may be more expensive than regular gas in your area (double check).

What is awesome is the range you get - almost 500 miles on a tank depending on how you drive. The torque as well (although I haven't had time to test it).

Be prepared for sticker shock on oil changes. Dealer is $200+. DIY is around $100. Plus additional items like the fuel filter every two oil changes. And DEF.

Read through the forums. Its great data but you may be even more confused as people from both camps will come out - 1) get a diesel, its awesome1 love it! 2) don't get a diesel, its a problem. unproven. history or problems.

I love mine. Diesel is about 20cents more per gal on the East Coast that I've seen, but there also is the cool factor.

Oh - also, diesel pumps suck as the diesel is sticky and the handles always smell like diesel so your hands smell like diesel. I've though about buying disposable gloves just for this.
Ya, I know I probably won’t save much money if any at all but at least I’m getting good range and mpg with that power. But anything over 25mpg would be awesome and almost double what I get now. Ya good point about the diesel pumps I always wore gloves when I fueled up our ambulances when they were still diesel.

I'm in the same ballpark, but my commute is only 2 miles to work (roughly 10 miles a day). The 3.6 is great for what it is, but it's not great on the gas mileage for sure. 18 mpg's in town is a lie. I have a MY22 on order with the diesel.

Filling up won't be fun as the tank is smaller, but hopefully you will get more mileage out of the diesel. In town, I get about 300 miles a tank. So you may not save any time here. I consider DEF a non-factor. 2.5 gallons last roughly 3k miles (easy enough).

Maintenance cost do go up. Though if you are anything like me, you do your own so they do go up but not astronomically.

To @ECP point on cost. People keep saying the $6k cost. On the new MY22,s diesel is only $3k more than the 2.0/auto and $2k more than the 3.6/auto. Also, MY22 the diesel is only $5k option.
My commute is roughly 26 miles one way 3-4 times a week. And not to mention when I have to drive into town on off days or go mountain biking. I know would probably average high 20s if not 30s on the way down but then the way up would probably average out to mid 20s. At least that’s my hope. And I figure 5 dollars more a months for a new vehicle that’s not beaten up with 14k miles is another nice bonus.
 

JLURD

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A lift isn’t needed for 35s but I still get 22-23mpg on 37s with a 2.75” lift. The biggest factor regarding long term cost is the delta between 87 and diesel at the pump…in Albuquerque it looks like $0.25 more for diesel so you are probably close to break even with the increased mpg offsetting increased price per gallon. Given your mod costs you won’t save money on the switch so it really comes down to whether the range, wheeling torque, sound, reduction in fill-up frequency, doomsday fuel access or whatever other diesel benefits you’re after are worth the long-term cost.
 

The Last Cowboy

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Lower your lift and go with 34s. Reduce the weight by removing as much of the gear as you can that isn't used on a regular basis. Fuel won't be getting any cheaper for a few years.
 

Tread4Lo

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@ECP Yeah, the short drives are what scares me the most. I am willing to take a risk with the 8yr/80,000 emission warranty. I drive normally around 8k a year, so I will get the full 8 years worth of emission warranty. By then, I should know if it is a keeper or a money pit.
 

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I’ve had the pleasure of driving my Rubicon Gladiator 3.6 for the past 9 months. It’s been great with mopar lift, 37s, winch/bumper, and rack/tent. But we recently moved out of the city and now have a little bit of a commute and fueling up twice a week sucks. It’s just the inconvenience of it. So I casually researched trading it in for a 4xe JL but ultimately decided the diesel was the better choice. Contacted my dealer and they are offering me 55k for my Rubicon (Paid 49 for it and would have 9k in equity) but can’t keep front bumper/37s/ and mopar lift. But I get a new JLURD 2k below msrp and a little better mileage and power for over landing trips and commute. My monthly payments would only be 5 dollars more then what I pay now. The only bummer is losing out on the truck bed for overlanding trips and semi starting over on the build. Usually it’s just my wife and I plus dog for overlanding. Still have my tent and can sell the gladiator rack for a JL rack. Would just be lacking rims/tires and suspension. Probably wouldn’t do 37s either to save money on the commute. What do you guys think? Worth trading in or no??
Financially what you wanna do is forget about the "monthly payment". Look at the total price, including taxes. Taxes you dont get back so thats a loss. Then also compute the cost of mods for the JLURD. Look at the interest rate and how much extra money you will be losing in the extra payments since youll be starting from 0 again.

In short. You need to calculate the extra cost in cash. Be honest to yourself. Then youll be able to decide what to do with that money. Invest it? Spend it on your current setup? Or just go for it.
 
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andrew8404

andrew8404

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Financially what you wanna do is forget about the "monthly payment". Look at the total price, including taxes. Taxes you dont get back so thats a loss. Then also compute the cost of mods for the JLURD. Look at the interest rate and how much extra money you will be losing in the extra payments since youll be starting from 0 again.

In short. You need to calculate the extra cost in cash. Be honest to yourself. Then youll be able to decide what to do with that money. Invest it? Spend it on your current setup? Or just go for it.
I have no taxes on it because I'm trading in my vehicle which negates paying any taxes. Difference in loan is 3000 dollars. So is it worth upgrading a used Gladiator with 14000 miles some damage with the 3.6 plus mods or get a new Eco Diesel. Mods that I will be missing is front bumper which is 450 dollars, Mopar suspension self install 1300 bucks. Then maybe within the year get 35s and or new wheels. Depending on how much I sell the 33s maybe plan on 1500 bucks for those. I'll sell my current rack system for a new JL system which should negate most of it maybe a few hundred short depending on the system I decide to get. So looking at it that way the cost is probably around 6000 over what I currently owe. But have a new JL Eco diesel with brand new parts. Tough decision I literally go back and forth by the hour ha ha. Will have to make a decision soon.
 

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I can elaborate. 3.0 = 445 lb of torque (510 tuned) at 1900 rpm. 3.6 = 260 @ 4,400 rpm. With all these EVs putting out 400 to 500 lb ft of torque from a watermelon I don’t see a bright resale value for a low performance vehicle in 5 years.

Compare a ~4300 lb (4167 lbs for the sport) diesel wrangler to a Rivian with 900 lb of torque but a curb weight of ~8532 lbs.
 
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BlackGenesis

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I can elaborate. 3.0 = 445 lb of torque (510 tuned) at 1900 rpm. 3.6 = 260 @ 4,400 rpm. With all these EVs putting out 400 to 500 lb ft of torque from a watermelon I don’t see a bright resale value for a low performance vehicle in 5 years.
People dont care too much about power with Wrangler. Diesel will go out of style long before gas will as people jump on EV.
If looking for power and fuel economy cost saving - get hybrid Wrangler.
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