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Wise Jeepers: Trade jlus for rubicon?

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ChattVol

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lol, The Auto is an extra 2 grand over the manual though.
Yep...my wife would prob reluctantly support the trade for a manual...it's me who likes to be frugal/cheap and is wrestling with an avoidable $ loss as well as losing sweat equity invested in installing unique things like a soundsystem and sound deadener.

If I could find reasonably priced takeoff rubi d44 axles with lockers, 4.10 gears and bigger brakes, would I need to buy a seperate rubi transfer case and other pricey parts to accommodate?
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Yep...my wife would prob reluctantly support the trade for a manual...it's me who likes to be frugal/cheap and is wrestling with an avoidable $ loss as well as losing sweat equity invested in installing unique things like a soundsystem and sound deadener.

If I could find reasonably priced takeoff rubi d44 axles with lockers, 4.10 gears and bigger brakes, would I need to buy a seperate rubi transfer case and other pricey parts to accommodate?
If you are going down the road of an axle swap just for the lockers and gears, just trade in and get the Rubicon. You get more for your money in the other extra bits as well as having everything under warranty.
 
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If you are going down the road of an axle swap just for the lockers and gears, just trade in and get the Rubicon. You get more for your money in the other extra bits as well as having everything under warranty.
You're prob right...The cost to go to a rubi($41k)is $10k more than the sport's trade value($31k) + kicking in $3k to payoff my upside down sport loan.

In comparison, I'm trying to determine overall cost of doing axle swap. If I can get d44 axles/gears/lockers/brakes for $3k, about how much for labor and other parts needed? Could I sell my sport axles for anything to offset cost?
 

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You're prob right...The cost to go to a rubi($41k)is $10k more than the sport's trade value($31k) + kicking in $3k to payoff my upside down sport loan.

In comparison, I'm trying to determine overall cost of doing axle swap. If I can get d44 axles/gears/lockers/brakes for $3k, about how much for labor and other parts needed? Could I sell my sport axles for anything to offset cost?
You could just don’t know how strong the market would be. Then you need to figure out the wiring for the lockers and sway bar disconnects. At the end of the day you will get 0 for all the money you have invested when it comes time to trade. A sport is a sport is a sport in the eyes of a dealer. Put 3k down and get what you want. You’re going to beat yourself up about this and have regrets until you do. It’s already in your mind

Brett
 

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I had a 4 door 2018 JLUR (because I was an impatient ass) and was not happy until I traded it in for a 2 door JLR. Yes I took a little hit financially, but it was worth it to me. Looking back I would do it again. Just sayin...
 

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I just received a quote from a friend of friend who runs an offroad garage to install lockers and regear to 4.10 to add more power to my 33" ko2's. He quoted $300 per axle for labor if I provide parts. He's researching to see if you would need to change out the carrier. He didnt recommend adding lunchbox lockers in the rear of a daily driver and likes selectable e lockers by Detroit(Eaton) when/if they are available for the jlus. Also recommended 4.56 gears for 35" tires.
 
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Given the mods that you have done that would be going with your trade there might be $1,000 - $1,500 left to make the trade happen on the right unit and depending on discounts you get on the Rubicon. Also, don't forget about BonusDrive.com as that is another $250 cash back after 8-10 weeks once you submit paperwork. Most dealers won't walk you if you're $1,000 close to a deal. I'm not a car salesman, that has just been my experience. I would also negotiate the doc fee down to something reasonable like $150 or so if it is same as your JLUS was at $599. Many say it is firm and they can't lower it which is all BS. If you're in the F/I office and prepared to walk over an excessive doc fee, more times than not it gets lowered to keep the deal.

You also mentioned would have drove it home yesterday. I have never been able to buy the way I want at the first of the month. They are not hungry enough or moved enough units for the month to get skinny on a deal and move a unit. Last day of the month is when I get the deal how I want it, generally speaking.
Are dealers actually more motivated to deal on the last day of the month? I've heard that, but was always curious if it was a myth.
I found a dealer 1.5 hrs away who claims he "thinks" he can pay $32k for my jlus trade. I let him know my budget with that trade is $41,000 out the door with fixed financing rate of 3.4% on 6 yrs for a white or sting grey rubi with only option required being automatic transmission(also like, but not in budget- LED lights/alpine sound/steel bumper)and would like to transfer my current black hardtop with hothead liner to the new jeep.(not required) Pricing including $1495 destination charge: MSRP $43,545 & Invoice $41,356. The out the door price would need to include $700 in taxes on trade difference + doc fee and tag/title/registration. If they go 5% below invoice, that would be $39,289, which leaves $2,067 which is more than enough to cover $700 taxes, doc fee/tag/title/registration. Is that reasonable and a good deal? Am I missing anything?
 

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Are dealers actually more motivated to deal on the last day of the month? I've heard that, but was always curious if it was a myth.
I found a dealer 1.5 hrs away who claims he "thinks" he can pay $32k for my jlus trade. I let him know my budget with that trade is $41,000 out the door with fixed financing rate of 3.4% on 6 yrs for a white or sting grey rubi with only option required being automatic transmission(also like, but not in budget- LED lights/alpine sound/steel bumper)and would like to transfer my current black hardtop with hothead liner to the new jeep.(not required) Pricing including $1495 destination charge: MSRP $43,545 & Invoice $41,356. The out the door price would need to include $700 in taxes on trade difference + doc fee and tag/title/registration. If they go 5% below invoice, that would be $39,289, which leaves $2,067 which is more than enough to cover $700 taxes, doc fee/tag/title/registration. Is that reasonable and a good deal? Am I missing anything?
There is an excellent podcast out there on a Jeep dealership in Long Island, NY. I will try to find the link. The journalist was allowed to go behind the scenes & really provide the listener w/ a true idea of how the business model works. To answer the “end of the month” question, the answer depends on how close they are to reaching their dealership bonus number for that month. Example, they will gladly take a $5K loss on a brand new vehicle if it means hitting a $80K bonus for the dealership. I’ll try to track down the link, it’s an interesting listen.
 

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There is an excellent podcast out there on a Jeep dealership in Long Island, NY. I will try to find the link. The journalist was allowed to go behind the scenes & really provide the listener w/ a true idea of how the business model works. To answer the “end of the month” question, the answer depends on how close they are to reaching their dealership bonus number for that month. Example, they will gladly take a $5K loss on a brand new vehicle if it means hitting a $80K bonus for the dealership. I’ll try to track down the link, it’s an interesting listen.
https://www.thisamericanlife.org/513/129-cars
 
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There is an excellent podcast out there on a Jeep dealership in Long Island, NY. I will try to find the link. The journalist was allowed to go behind the scenes & really provide the listener w/ a true idea of how the business model works. To answer the “end of the month” question, the answer depends on how close they are to reaching their dealership bonus number for that month. Example, they will gladly take a $5K loss on a brand new vehicle if it means hitting a $80K bonus for the dealership. I’ll try to track down the link, it’s an interesting listen.
That sounds awesome...thanks!
 

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The end of month has always worked for me and Radicon as stated above is correct. If they are close to hitting a magical number on units moved it always seems to play well into that. Especially the larger volume dealers. The small town dealers not so much IMO. Your trade as described without the wanted goodies seems like it should be doable. They are not super skinny on their pricing but may be making up for it on your trade. If the new Rubi has a soft top and you keep your HT that's a pretty big price swing of value off of your JLUS.
 
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The end of month has always worked for me and Radicon as stated above is correct. If they are close to hitting a magical number on units moved it always seems to play well into that. Especially the larger volume dealers. The small town dealers not so much IMO. Your trade as described without the wanted goodies seems like it should be doable. They are not super skinny on their pricing but may be making up for it on your trade. If the new Rubi has a soft top and you keep your HT that's a pretty big price swing of value off of your JLUS.
Is this considered a good deal at end of month with a motivated dealer on rubi with automatic as only option? Or should I try to get this price with another option such as alpine sound? I've always wondered what the actual dealer's cost is in relationship to invoice price? I hear dealer's say they're "taking a loss" and I thought it was comical standard car salesmanship to make the customer feel like they're getting a bargain.
 
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Is this considered a good deal on rubi with automatic as only option or should I try to get with another option such as alpine sound?
Odds are you won't find a Rubicon with only the Alpine sounds as an option, as it costs around $1300 as a stand alone option. But if you go with the Infotainment group at $1600, Alpine is included, with the bigger Radio screen and GPS. But if you are trading in for something on the lot, you will be limited to whatever the dealer has on hand.
 

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My opinion - If you can get $32 for yours and switch hard tops if he will let you and he sells his at the 5% under MSRP at say $39,300, that's probably a pretty good deal. One I would do since you are at $7,000 trade difference and save a tad on taxes. Now for the other options you may be limited to stock on the lot for negotiating leverage. If he has to dealer trade, you lose some meat becasue of the holdback going to another dealer. If a unit has Infotainment I would do that extra cost all day long because it includes the Alpine system and you get the 8.4 screen plus the sound wave windshield and Nav. Something I wish mine had but doesn't. As another posted, there are a lot more bits to the Rubicon that justify it for me such as: cool hood, higher fenders, BFG KO's, higher clearance, red accents, lockers and sway disconnect obviously. I would surmise any other options you add on if on the lot will be a bit of a linear increase of dollar for dollar. Dealer will probably stick with his trade in offer and make a few dollars back on any options you opt for that may be on a unit. In the end of course, it's what makes you and the Mrs happy!
 
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My opinion - If you can get $32 for yours and switch hard tops if he will let you and he sells his at the 5% under MSRP at say $39,300, that's probably a pretty good deal. One I would do since you are at $7,000 trade difference and save a tad on taxes. Now for the other options you may be limited to stock on the lot for negotiating leverage. If he has to dealer trade, you lose some meat becasue of the holdback going to another dealer. If a unit has Infotainment I would do that extra cost all day long because it includes the Alpine system and you get the 8.4 screen plus the sound wave windshield and Nav. Something I wish mine had but doesn't. As another posted, there are a lot more bits to the Rubicon that justify it for me such as: cool hood, higher fenders, BFG KO's, higher clearance, red accents, lockers and sway disconnect obviously. I would surmise any other options you add on if on the lot will be a bit of a linear increase of dollar for dollar. Dealer will probably stick with his trade in offer and make a few dollars back on any options you opt for that may be on a unit. In the end of course, it's what makes you and the Mrs happy!
Good point on the infotainment option
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