Wiring halos to side markers?

[BilletMike]

It's not just your opinion, it IS the easier way to do it. However you then have a wire running into your fuse box, which not only looks bad but is also a dead-giveaway to a dealer looking to dump the blame for some electrical issue on you. You also then have the halos on whenever your Wrangler is running, which is not how the factory DRLs work.

These could be inconsequential details for some, but I wanted an OEM-quality install.

So you're saying they told you to bridge the green/white and brown/white wires together and connect the halo wire to that? If so, that's going to mess up your DRLs.

I'm thinking that is what they instructed, but the bridge is made on their wiring harness, which is a red and a blue wire. They are the first two wires after the ground wire. I'm not sure what it means that it will mess them up. I did find that the DRLs are now on all the time unless I deselect them in the UConnect menu. I didn't check to see which headlight switch setting enabled the DRLs before performing this install (oops). I am scouring manual and web to see if DRLs are supposed to be illuminated when headlight setting is "Off" or "Parking", but I suspect they are not.

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[TheRaven]

I'm thinking that is what they instructed, but the bridge is made on their wiring harness, which is a red and a blue wire. They are the first two wires after the ground wire. I'm not sure what it means that it will mess them up. I did find that the DRLs are now on all the time unless I deselect them in the UConnect menu. I didn't check to see which headlight switch setting enabled the DRLs before performing this install (oops). I am scouring manual and web to see if DRLs are supposed to be illuminated when headlight setting is "Off" or "Parking", but I suspect they are not.

I'm not totally clear on what their solution is that's why I asked. But if they are effectively bridging the white/green and white/brown wires, even if it's in their harness, that's going to cause the DRLs to be on full bright at night (they are supposed to dim at night) and also cause your taillights to be on during the day, whenever your drls are on. There are other ways to avoid this problem, besides my solution, but you can't just put a scotchlok on both wires and the halo wire and call it a day. That's why I had to go through all the trouble I did to get mine working properly. There has to be some form of current limiting to control where the power goes.

 

[mgarciaknight]

It's not just your opinion, it IS the easier way to do it. However you then have a wire running into your fuse box, which not only looks bad but is also a dead-giveaway to a dealer looking to dump the blame for some electrical issue on you. You also then have the halos on whenever your Wrangler is running, which is not how the factory DRLs work.

These could be inconsequential details for some, but I wanted an OEM-quality install.



Yes. The 80th is a weird animal actually. It is considered a sport, but is actually closer to a Sahara. It has Sahara bumpers and fenders...and it's because of those fenders that the lights are different than a Sport. The Sahara marker lights are bigger than the Sport markers. So if you replace the marker lights on your 80th, you need the ones from the Sahara, the ones from the Sport will not physically fit, nor wire up properly.

I had a 2016 JK Sahara and love the painted fenders and that is the BIGGEST reason I got the 80th as opposed to another Sahara. Anyway that is GREAT news because there are so many more Rubi/Sahara Parking/drl/side marker lights for sale than there are Sport. Thanks for the verification!

 

[mgarciaknight]

It's not just your opinion, it IS the easier way to do it. However you then have a wire running into your fuse box, which not only looks bad but is also a dead-giveaway to a dealer looking to dump the blame for some electrical issue on you. You also then have the halos on whenever your Wrangler is running, which is not how the factory DRLs work.

These could be inconsequential details for some, but I wanted an OEM-quality install.



Yes. The 80th is a weird animal actually. It is considered a sport, but is actually closer to a Sahara. It has Sahara bumpers and fenders...and it's because of those fenders that the lights are different than a Sport. The Sahara marker lights are bigger than the Sport markers. So if you replace the marker lights on your 80th, you need the ones from the Sahara, the ones from the Sport will not physically fit, nor wire up properly.

I really like the look of the DRLs on the Rubi and Sahara

 

[mgarciaknight]

I really like the look of the DRLs on the Rubi and Sahara

Correction: LED DRLs of Rubi and Sahara

 

[BilletMike]

I'm not totally clear on what their solution is that's why I asked. But if they are effectively bridging the white/green and white/brown wires, even if it's in their harness, that's going to cause the DRLs to be on full bright at night (they are supposed to dim at night) and also cause your taillights to be on during the day, whenever your drls are on. There are other ways to avoid this problem, besides my solution, but you can't just put a scotchlok on both wires and the halo wire and call it a day. That's why I had to go through all the trouble I did to get mine working properly. There has to be some form of current limiting to control where the power goes.

Looks like things are pretty good. Taillights are not on unless the headlights are in the "On" or "parking lights" positions.

 

[TheRaven]

Looks like things are pretty good. Taillights are not on unless the headlights are in the "On" or "parking lights" positions.

And do you have two different brightness's on the DRLs? They should dim when you turn on the parking lights.

If so, then there is more going on than just a bridge of the DRL and parking wires.

 

[BrianJEEPs18&01]

I'm posting this update in here so that we have a definitive answer to this question:

I got it working...

Here's how it works - in "day" mode, the white/green wire is hot...that tells the DRLs to run in "high" mode, and in "night" mode, the white/brown wire is hot...that tells the DRLs to run in "low" mode, this is also "parking" lights. The problem is that ideally you want your halos on in both situations. You COULD just choose to use them during the day since at night they wouldn't be as visible with how close they are to the headlights. But I think most guys would like them to be on with the DRLs during the day and at night with the headlights. So if you only need them on during the day, you can just tie them into the white/green wire and be done with it. But if you want it all, then you have to get creative.

The problem is that you can't just tie the white/brown and white/green wires together or else voltage will backfeed into whichever circuit is off...I don't think that this will break anything, but it would result in your DRLs being on full blast at night and your taillights being on during the day. What you need is a way to tie the halo power into BOTH white/brown and white/green wires and stop voltage from going where you don't want it...and you can do that with diodes. With two diodes - one placed between the halo wire and the white/brown wire, and one placed between the halo wire and white/green wire, you allow voltage to travel from either of those two wires and onto the halo wire, but stop voltage from feeding back onto the non-powered wire. I ended up using two diodes paralleled to each wire because my diodes are only rated for 3A, which should be ok but I figure having the second one in there gives some extra insurance.

Here are the diodes I would recommend for this application:

https://components101.com/diodes/1n5824-schottky-diode

Since they are rated for 5A, you only need one on each wire.

Raven. I see the diodes you recommend and thanks for that. I too have just installed Oculus Led with Halo and don't want the DRL on all the time. I have aftermarket fenders with LED Turn Signals. Couple of questions. Do you only have to make this connection on one side by exposing the wire in the halo that was designed to run to up the fuse box? Second on the diodes they refer to "Anodes" electric in and "Cathodes" electric out. Does that cathode end connect to the halo wiring?

 

[BrianJEEPs18&01]

Okay I have to admit @raven was a God Send with this post. I have a 2018 JL Wrangler Sport and I agree with @raven about having a wire hanging out of my fuse box. So my

I'm posting this update in here so that we have a definitive answer to this question:

I got it working...

Here's how it works - in "day" mode, the white/green wire is hot...that tells the DRLs to run in "high" mode, and in "night" mode, the white/brown wire is hot...that tells the DRLs to run in "low" mode, this is also "parking" lights. The problem is that ideally you want your halos on in both situations. You COULD just choose to use them during the day since at night they wouldn't be as visible with how close they are to the headlights. But I think most guys would like them to be on with the DRLs during the day and at night with the headlights. So if you only need them on during the day, you can just tie them into the white/green wire and be done with it. But if you want it all, then you have to get creative.

The problem is that you can't just tie the white/brown and white/green wires together or else voltage will backfeed into whichever circuit is off...I don't think that this will break anything, but it would result in your DRLs being on full blast at night and your taillights being on during the day. What you need is a way to tie the halo power into BOTH white/brown and white/green wires and stop voltage from going where you don't want it...and you can do that with diodes. With two diodes - one placed between the halo wire and the white/brown wire, and one placed between the halo wire and white/green wire, you allow voltage to travel from either of those two wires and onto the halo wire, but stop voltage from feeding back onto the non-powered wire. I ended up using two diodes paralleled to each wire because my diodes are only rated for 3A, which should be ok but I figure having the second one in there gives some extra insurance.

Here are the diodes I would recommend for this application:

https://components101.com/diodes/1n5824-schottky-diode

Since they are rated for 5A, you only need one on each wire.

per @ Raven
"The problem is that there are three different wiring possible wiring scenarios depending on which model and trim you have."

@raven is spot on. I have a 2018 JL Sport. I do not have DRL as a feature with my factory Halogens. My wire harness under the wheel well has Org/Wht, Blu/Wht, Black, Brwn/Wht, Brwn, Black. I did not want Halo's on during a bright sunny day. I spliced the Halo Power into the Brwn wire after putting a volt meter and determining this has 12V power with parking light and headlights on. I am able to have the Halo's on with the parking lights. Halos are on with headlights in on position, or auto position. I also do not experience the switching noise you hear when you move from low beam to high beam that I experienced with the F52 fuse piggyback connection.

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