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Wiring for ARB Fridge Freezer

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KDB

KDB

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@KDB

Just noticed your last post. Glad you are getting-it done!

I figured your issue was poor ground related.

Keep posting and let us know how things finished up....
@DanW and @Rhinebeck01
Sorry for late response but I was able to get all hooked up and mounted. Was in a hurry last week as I left to head to northern Wisconsin for some camping and mountain biking. Got back and was putting all gear away and realized I haven’t responded to this yet:)

I was able to run the wires behind the dash and under the center console and mounted the proprietary ARB port behind the driver seat. Being only two weeks old I felt a tad nervous drilling holes in my plastic console but hey, it’s only plastic ;)

7F196F2F-14AF-4C37-AB5C-2977A015C34C.jpeg


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Rhinebeck01

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@KDB

May sound strange to some but, I find it rewarding to have helped you and that I was a part of your gettin-it-done! Much more rewarding then coming here and bitching and moaning or talking nonsensical crapola... (which I do not do)

Kevin, hopefully, you can pay it forward so to speak. Others here will be wanting to have a similar set-up as yours ... or at least be fooling with the aux connections. They benefit by your first hand experience in this mod.

Enjoy! Thanks for posting today and letting us know it's done and done right and your are using it.. Looks good!
 

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@DanW and @Rhinebeck01
Sorry for late response but I was able to get all hooked up and mounted. Was in a hurry last week as I left to head to northern Wisconsin for some camping and mountain biking. Got back and was putting all gear away and realized I haven’t responded to this yet:)

I was able to run the wires behind the dash and under the center console and mounted the proprietary ARB port behind the driver seat. Being only two weeks old I felt a tad nervous drilling holes in my plastic console but hey, it’s only plastic ;)

7F196F2F-14AF-4C37-AB5C-2977A015C34C.jpeg


23F7C67D-C5AF-48D7-97A3-FF5977F8BA33.jpeg
Let us know how you like that fridge! Is that the 50L model?
 
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Let us know how you like that fridge! Is that the 50L model?
No, this is the 37, same footprint as the 50 however. I’ve lived out of my Jeep for two plus weeks at a time and the 37 is more than adaquate to support 2 people. Great fridge overall, was hesitant at first spending the monies but in hind site it was one of the best mods. Never have to worry about ice or having water (melted ice) ruining food.
 
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@KDB

May sound strange to some but, I find it rewarding to have helped you and that I was a part of your gettin-it-done! Much more rewarding then coming here and bitching and moaning or talking nonsensical crapola... (which I do not do)

Kevin, hopefully, you can pay it forward so to speak. Others here will be wanting to have a similar set-up as yours ... or at least be fooling with the aux connections. They benefit by your first hand experience in this mod.

Enjoy! Thanks for posting today and letting us know it's done and done right and your are using it.. Looks good!
@Rhinebeck01
I really do appreciate your input and advice as well as your comments and suggestions did lead me in the correct direction. In addition, I do understand how you feel as i have been in your shoes before helping others in JK forums over the years. Its always a good feeling when you can you use what you know to help out anyone else, especially fellow jeepers ;)

Thanks again!
 

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I am interested in doing this also, but want to use the cig lighter port in back of jeep? Will that work without exceeding any fuses or wire guages? anyone know if that power port is on when vehicle off? or if there is any kind of smart controller so battery will not drain below what will start the jeep?
 

sjappers

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@Rhinebeck01
I really do appreciate your input and advice as well as your comments and suggestions did lead me in the correct direction. In addition, I do understand how you feel as i have been in your shoes before helping others in JK forums over the years. Its always a good feeling when you can you use what you know to help out anyone else, especially fellow jeepers ;)

Thanks again!
I am interested in doing this also, but want to use the cig lighter port in back of jeep? Will that work without exceeding any fuses or wire guages? anyone know if that power port is on when vehicle off? or if there is any kind of smart controller so battery will not drain below what will start the jeep?
 

DanW

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I am interested in doing this also, but want to use the cig lighter port in back of jeep? Will that work without exceeding any fuses or wire guages? anyone know if that power port is on when vehicle off? or if there is any kind of smart controller so battery will not drain below what will start the jeep?
It should work just fine. The 12 volt socket in the back is controlled on the Uconnect. Go into settings and you can set it to either provide power full time or to only provide power when the ignition is on. When you set it for full time, it wil be ready to run the fridge when parked. Most fridges have a setting to protect the battery in your Jeep, and from what I've read, it is common to be able to power the fridge safely for 2 days. Some have said they've run them for 3 days and their Jeeps have started just fine.

Some are using the ARB plug and wiring because of the way it connects more securely and because the 12 volt power sticks out a bit when plugged into the factory 12v recepticle. I'm not too worried about that thing sticking out, but when packing things tightly, it might make a difference for you.
 

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It has been 90-106 degrees for the last week I have had my arb 50 running in the back of my JLUR (aux and tow package) set to 38 degrees and no issues running it off the rear cigarette lighter or holding temp. I do have the cover as well.
 

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@KDB

May sound strange to some but, I find it rewarding to have helped you and that I was a part of your gettin-it-done! Much more rewarding then coming here and bitching and moaning or talking nonsensical crapola... (which I do not do)

Kevin, hopefully, you can pay it forward so to speak. Others here will be wanting to have a similar set-up as yours ... or at least be fooling with the aux connections. They benefit by your first hand experience in this mod.

Enjoy! Thanks for posting today and letting us know it's done and done right and your are using it.. Looks good!
Well Rhinebeck01, I'm glad you get a charge out of helping, very refreshing...

So to you or anyone else, I want to run some wire from the rear as plan to put some flood lights in back. So is there a wire chase for wire to go to where the AUX wire connection in cab or under hood.

Thanks for your help in advance....
 

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Rhinebeck01

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@MacJack Sure I like to help.. 8-) Ok, fellow 2 dr. owner...

Since the floods are externally mounted, do use Aux 1, 2, 3, or 4 you find by the main battery. Just run the pos and you can ground the lights in the back when you install them.

Right below the main battery you will find the hollow frame rail. Run your positive wire through there to the back of the JL. It is a hollow, clear shot all the way back. Don't make the wire to taut as you run it through. Again, be careful to leave slack in the wire...

Again, just run the pos and you can ground the lights in the back when you install them.

Get a wire coat hangar and fish it through. There are multiple holes on the frame rail to allow you access to the hangar with attached wire as you work it through. I ran through mine in say 10 mins.. Again, a clear run through there.

Hint: If you do not have a 12v tester to test your 12v, just use say an old 12v trailer light fixture that has a bulb in it. Don't test with the lights you want to install. Another words, run your pos, hunt for an set up a ground and be sure your Aux switch is doing the on/off as it should.

Once you have the Floods installed then hook up your proven 12v pos and ground to them.

Let us know how you make out.

Another hint: If your wires are going to bend around, touch any semi sharp, metal edges, do protect your wire at those spots. Will only be a matter of time before your get a friction break through at those spots.
.
 

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@MacJack Sure I like to help.. 8-) Ok, fellow 2 dr. owner...

Since the floods are externally mounted, do use Aux 1, 2, 3, or 4 you find by the main battery. Just run the pos and you can ground the lights in the back when you install them.

Right below the main battery you will find the hollow frame rail. Run your positive wire through there to the back of the JL. It is a hollow, clear shot all the way back. Don't make the wire to taut as you run it through. Again, be careful to leave slack in the wire...

Again, just run the pos and you can ground the lights in the back when you install them.

Get a wire coat hangar and fish it through. There are multiple holes on the frame rail to allow you access to the hangar with attached wire as you work it through. I ran through mine in say 10 mins.. Again, a clear run through there.

Hint: If you do not have a 12v tester to test your 12v, just use say an old 12v trailer light fixture that has a bulb in it. Don't test with the lights you want to install. Another words, run your pos, hunt for an set up a ground and be sure your Aux switch is doing the on/off as it should.

Once you have the Floods installed then hook up your proven 12v pos and ground to them.

Let us know how you make out.

Another hint: If your wires are going to bend around, touch any semi sharp, metal edges, do protect your wire at those spots. Will only be a matter of time before your get a friction break through at those spots.
.
Thanks, great answer... helped me and hope others as well. I have plenty of plastic high temperature sleeving which protects wires, and cables against abrasion or crushing, and has a heat resistance range of -40° to 300° F. So do I need to use this in the frame rail? I will use it for going through the holes in the frame rail....
 

Rhinebeck01

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Thanks, great answer... helped me and hope others as well. I have plenty of plastic high temperature sleeving which protects wires, and cables against abrasion or crushing, and has a heat resistance range of -40° to 300° F. So do I need to use this in the frame rail? I will use it for going through the holes in the frame rail....
@MacJack

Yes, that "sleeving" is very good to use. No, not in the frame rail itself, just say where the wire enters and exits.... where it is bent over an edge lets say.

Be sure you heed what I said about slack in the wire running through the frame rail. You can leave lots of slack in the frame rail. This way you have excess wire for future repairs if you should have to do. Slack will be a plus if body were to be unbolted and lifted, say if you ever had a body bolt break. Extra wire is always a plus and do have it hiding in the frame rail.

For a ground, you can get some self tapping screws and use them in the back if necessary. You can pick-up ground in trailer harness wiring but personally, I would not and just use a self tapper screw.

? ... Are you wanting these floods to also come on as b/u lights?


.
 

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@MacJack

Yes, that "sleeving" is very good to use. No, not in the frame rail itself, just say where the wire enters and exits.... where it is bent over an edge lets say.

Be sure you heed what I said about slack in the wire running through the frame rail. You can leave lots of slack in the frame rail. This way you have excess wire for future repairs if you should have to do. Slack will be a plus if body were to be unbolted and lifted, say if you ever had a body bolt break. Extra wire is always a plus and do have it hiding in the frame rail.

For a ground, you can get some self tapping screws and use them in the back if necessary. You can pick-up ground in trailer harness wiring but personally, I would not and just use a self tapper screw.

? ... Are you wanting these floods to also come on as b/u lights?


.
Thanks again for words of wisdom.
@MacJack

Yes, that "sleeving" is very good to use. No, not in the frame rail itself, just say where the wire enters and exits.... where it is bent over an edge lets say.

Be sure you heed what I said about slack in the wire running through the frame rail. You can leave lots of slack in the frame rail. This way you have excess wire for future repairs if you should have to do. Slack will be a plus if body were to be unbolted and lifted, say if you ever had a body bolt break. Extra wire is always a plus and do have it hiding in the frame rail.

For a ground, you can get some self tapping screws and use them in the back if necessary. You can pick-up ground in trailer harness wiring but personally, I would not and just use a self tapper screw.

? ... Are you wanting these floods to also come on as b/u lights?


.
Thanks... No want to use AUX to manually control on or off. Most of the Jeep backup lights works for me BUT I have some major dark area I need the light.

What wire gauge should I use?

I just posted this Post as to a new location idea. Seek your comments.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...above-the-camera-behind-the-spare-tire.14882/

Thanks,
Jack
 

Rhinebeck01

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@MacJack

For what you are doing, 16 gauge is fine.
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