Kreepin1
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Kirk
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2020
- Threads
- 7
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- 646
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- 986
- Location
- Central Illinois
- Vehicle(s)
- 1982 CJ7, 2006 TJ, 2012 JKR, 2021 JLR
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- #16
So GTC stands for Get To Cutting. The bumper was well packed in like four layers of cardboard. Fit and finish is top notch. But there are no freakin' instructions. Just a bumper and a pack of hardware tucked up inside. A couple of calls to Excessive Industries and no call back. Well, shucks, it looks like I'm on my own on this one. I guess they figure if you order a frame chop bumper you don't need no stinkin' instructions. So I'll go ahead and document what I did in call any other hardy souls venture into these uncharted waters...
The easy way to do this is to cut 1" off the frame rails, cut the bottom of the frame 3/8" behind the rear bolt hole and angle up from there at a 45 degree angle, and cut out the rear cross member.
However, I know how floppy a frame can get when you remove cross members, so I'll be keeping at least part of mine. Here are my initial cut marks. Note the bottom of the body mount needed to be trimmed as well:
I whittled away at the frame trying to keep as much of the structure as possible. Here are the final cuts. Note that I only cut 3/4" off the ends of the frame rails to preserve the crossmember weld. The reason for this cut is so you can fit a shackle in the recessed hole. I might end up grinding a short section if the shackle doesn't clear next time I test fit the bumper.
You have to cut the crossmember about 3/8" from the top in the rear all the way across. The front side can be cut about 1-1/4" from the top but I stopped 11-3/8" from the frame and angled down to form a gusset:
I swear this thing was made to be welded on. This is looking up through one of two windows cut in the bottom of the bumper. They align perfectly with the front of the crossmember, I could so lay a bead in there, but then, if I ever want to remove the bumper there would be hell to pay! My plan it to bolt the bumper to the crossmember to stiffen things up even more.
The easy way to do this is to cut 1" off the frame rails, cut the bottom of the frame 3/8" behind the rear bolt hole and angle up from there at a 45 degree angle, and cut out the rear cross member.
However, I know how floppy a frame can get when you remove cross members, so I'll be keeping at least part of mine. Here are my initial cut marks. Note the bottom of the body mount needed to be trimmed as well:
I whittled away at the frame trying to keep as much of the structure as possible. Here are the final cuts. Note that I only cut 3/4" off the ends of the frame rails to preserve the crossmember weld. The reason for this cut is so you can fit a shackle in the recessed hole. I might end up grinding a short section if the shackle doesn't clear next time I test fit the bumper.
You have to cut the crossmember about 3/8" from the top in the rear all the way across. The front side can be cut about 1-1/4" from the top but I stopped 11-3/8" from the frame and angled down to form a gusset:
I swear this thing was made to be welded on. This is looking up through one of two windows cut in the bottom of the bumper. They align perfectly with the front of the crossmember, I could so lay a bead in there, but then, if I ever want to remove the bumper there would be hell to pay! My plan it to bolt the bumper to the crossmember to stiffen things up even more.
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