I use JKS discos and I didn’t cut off the super thick tab on my PR44. I bolted the bottom of the right disconnect and got a longer slide off pin from JKS (a duplicate of the left side pin which is longer than th right pin with the kit) and fixed that to the top. When I disconnect that right side I just zip tie that right sided disco top to the lower coil of the spring and have had no issues on multiple trips. Someday I’ll make a bracket though.
You’ve got it exactly correct.Just to make sure I understand - you have the JKS disconnects plus an extra "driver side" disconnect post on the top of the passenger side link. So you disconnect driver side at the bottom and passenger side at the top? And no cutting off the tab? I was trying to figure out how to do that, but never thought to get another longer disconnect post from JKS.... thanks!
You’ve got it exactly correct.
Next I’m going to try to lengthen the discos enough so I can disconnect only the driver side and leave the passenger side connected when I wheel. Right now that doesn’t work because with the passenger side connected, at full passenger side drop the passenger side axle pulls the saybar down and the driver side of the axle (stuffed up) hits the lowered sway bar. But with longer discos I may be able to avoid that.
i was looking at those too, let us know what you thinkIt looks like this thread sort of stopped, but I'm going to try the Teraflex JL / JT Sway Bar Quick Disconnect Kit (SKU #1764000).
I like the fact that there is no cutting, everything disconnects and reconnects really easy on both sides and the sway bar is held well out of the way when disconnected.
Purchased the kit based on concept since I couldn't find any reviews. Haven't installed it yet. Any one else have any opinions on this approach?
This!!I’m in the minority but i just use a wrench and disconnect the standard links myself. I just remove the lower bolts. I just got an impact wrench to make it faster. It can be done in a few minutes each side.
There are definitely situations where that extra travel comes in handy.
Pete, et., al.,This!!
I do the same - and just zip tie the linkage so it doesn’t smack other parts around.
thats a great idea. ive just been zip tieing them to the sway bar. have to use two zip ties because with one they break.I disconnected the bottom on both sides today just to see how easy it is. It's actually pretty simple (and fast), especially with a cordless 90 degree impact and an 18mm box wrench. If/when I ditch the OEM bumper and install a stubby, it will be even easier. After disconnecting, I swung the links up, and zip tied them to the upper coil spring pocket, and then went for a drive around our neighborhood. I can definitely feel the difference around corners. I'm wondering if my tie off locations for the links will cause any issues. What do you think?
i have a stubby bumper. i can reach in without having to get on the ground. i take a very small tool box with me. all that is inside of it are an 18mm wrench, cordless ratchet with 18mm socket, zip ties, and dikes.Pete, et., al.,
There is certainly no issue with carrying tools around. However, I'm still interested in the easy one minute disconnect and reconnect with the only tools required are the two fingers needed to pull a pin and reinsert it either high (disconnected) or low (reconnected).
Granted, the Rubi drivers only need one finger, but I'm not willing to call them sissies.
Obviously, the real macho drivers are the ones willing to slide in the mud and wrench on their rigs whenever the necessity arises.
I just don't believe (dis)connecting sway bars are one of those situations to break out the tool box and possibly getting dirty / wet / greasy just to go, or come back, when wheeling.
That's just me. To each their own. Truthfully I wish I had the funds to be one of those cockpit button pushing sissies.
Still, I'm willing to at least compromise.
Wish there was more of that in the world, especially when it comes to politics but that's for another story in a different thread.
Could you post pictures please.I use JKS discos and I didn’t cut off the super thick tab on my PR44. I bolted the bottom of the right disconnect and got a longer slide off pin from JKS (a duplicate of the left side pin which is longer than th right pin with the kit) and fixed that to the top. When I disconnect that right side I just zip tie that right sided disco top to the lower coil of the spring and have had no issues on multiple trips. Someday I’ll make a bracket though.
Sorry, I don’t have that set up any longer.Could you post pictures please.