Why Rubicon instead of Sport S when upgrading tires?

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jeff72034

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So you actually know MOST rubicon owners, and know that they’re gonna upgrade stuff? You’re pretty popular. Let me introduce myself as one who will leave my Rubi 99%stock. Will do more than I’ll ever need as is.:like:
See, that's honestly an option I'm considering...at least for the first year or two maybe. It does look pretty sweet right off the floor. I've seen a couple around town and I can see that Jeep really put some ove into this model. I'm not even a Jeep guy and I can tell the difference.

On the other hand...I know that once I get my first taste of offroad that I'm going to go crazy so I'm wondering if I should plan for "the worst!" Because I'll do it. I'm crazy.





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JeepJL18

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Will the sway bar and locker still work on upgraded gears and suspension kits?

Honestly, I don't even know if I'm asking the right questions here because I'm so new to all of this information. People are writing that when you go with bigger tires that you have to "re-gear." My early comprehension of this mean that you'd have to replace the entire differential and axles...basically the entire bottom end. Will those stock components still work with the new parts?
Don't worry Jeff. We have the finest experts here to answer everything but your question. Ask @shacdaddy for example . He is the one that has a big ol GMC truck on his profile and will tell you all you need to know about jeeps. I know next time I go looking for a car, I am taking him with me so I don't make any rash/imbecilic decisions. And hey, with someone still using a nickname like that at their age, you know they mean business!:rock:

I follow him so I can get the latest updates on the jeep world. It's amazing!
 
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Don't worry Jeff. We have the finest experts here to answer everything but your question. Ask @shacdaddy for example . He is the one that has a big ol GMC truck on his profile and will tell you all you need to know about jeeps. I know next time I go looking for a car, I am taking him with me so I don't make any rash/imbecilic decisions. And hey, with someone still using a nickname like that at their age, you know they mean business!:rock:

I follow him so I can get the latest updates on the jeep world. It's amazing!

Good idea. Thanks for the info!
 
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jeff72034

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For me the math ends up so close that why not just bump up to the Rubicon?

4dr Sport S with auto, ungraded infotainment, LSD, premium soft top and aux switches ends up $42k and I’m going to lift it and do new wheels and tires so I’ll be at $46-47k all in.

4dr Rubicon with auto and premium soft top is $46k plus just wheels and tires and sell the takeoffs and maybe I’m at $48k all in.

Seems worth the extra $2k.

I found some other threads breaking down the math after posting. People are making some compelling arguments just based on the math.
 

JeepJL18

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You are 100% right, a LCD sport with good meat on it goes 95% of the places a Rubicon goes. I was referring to Lite Bright here, and NO a Sport even loaded with KIT can't go where they take their Rubicon, honestly I am surprised their Rubicon can go where they take their Rubicon. One other thing to consider is this- yes you might be able to put a budget lift on and 33-35" tires and go pretty much every where I go, but with all the goodies on the Rubicon I can do it easier- I am getting older I no longer want to push my rig/myself to the edge when wheeling, I would rather stay well within the capabilities of both so I can maximize the fun factor for the entire family.

To my earlier point I bought the Rubicon myself because it is over built for what I will use it for. I looked at what I would want on a Sport and compared it to a Rubicon- the Rubicon was about $5k more based on my wants and needs. I would be missing the LED's by not going with the Rubicon. So for $4-$5k difference (depending on the value you put on the LED's) I upgraded to the Rubicon. The security of the Dana 44's front and rear, the high line fenders for larger tires, the larger 33" BFG's (I will probably wait to upgrade to the 35's when the 33's are done) the heavier duty steering components, the lockers and front disconnects were all worth the $4k difference to me. I would rather have it and not need it then need it and not have it.

If I was building a monster rig with 40's Dana 60's front and rear, an atlas transfer case, sure buying a sport would make more sense for me. But that was never my plan. There is a solid reason to buy a Rubicon and there are solid reasons to buy the sport- we are one Jeep family, who cares why or what you bought- just make sure you have fun with it and respect other owners.

Agreed my friend. One of the main reasons I don't (or ever will) go higher than my 33 with 2.5 lift is that one of things that people sometimes don't realize is that it puts more strain on the engine and over time will cause more wear and tear. Lord knows I've been through too much random crap with my older jeep I sold last year to do it again. I just like to sit up high is the only reason I did it and maybe have some fun if we get some snow in the south, but to never take it where they take theirs. I couldnt imagine doing that to my S (and I have 44k in it) and basically driving it over some of those cliffs like they do, lol.

P.S. I got the LED's on my Sport by the way. (just qouted this: "I would be missing the LED's by not going with the Rubicon.")

But totally get your point. With having an 18 month old, the only offroad I'll be doing is a gravel road by mistake, lol. :P
 

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It's like I've said before. Give me a base Sport, $10,000 cash, and a month and I'll show you a Wrangler that will smoke a Rubicon on any trail in America and ride better on the highway too.

The reason people buy the Rubicon is because it is more capable than the others with a factory warranty to go along with it. It's all about that warranty. The same thing goes on in the car world. I know many guys who bought the V6 base model Mustangs and Challengers and added modifications to outrun all the V8 cars, but you're giving up your warranty to do so. It all depends on what you're looking for. Do you want maximum performance for the dollar? Or do you want the comfort of knowing there's a warranty in place?
 

FrankieFJL

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Dude, settle down. You just said the other guy was "spouting nonsense" and I "don't have a clue." Stop with the insults. We're talking about Jeeps here, for chrissake. It's not that big of a deal.
Not an insult, just an observation.
We all know a person with a $50,000 home audio system. $30,000 of that was spent to attain the last 2% of its performance
Read it again, he's saying that to get that extra 2% out of it, go for the Rubicon. Not my analogy, just commenting on it. If you can't handle direct criticism for you opinion, then I'm done with you. And your attitude is whatever, so you can't be too involved anyway.
 

Stickerhead

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OP. Best advice is to go test drive both, look at the features and see what you “think” you need. You can always go one line to jeep.com and build you one. That is a good way to see all the features then go ask questions. You have a lot of hard core jeepers on here then some nubbies. If you are not going to use it off road a lot, Buy the sport. You can upgrade if you decide you need it to be more capable.
 
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Wow. That's a lot of great input. Thanks everyone for your points!

I hadn't really considered the higher fenders when asking originally. Yeah, those make a pretty big impact on my personal taste and I'd rather have that. The sway bar disconnect sound like an important factor. I'm still not sure if the airlockers will carry over into a beefier bottom end but if there is an integrated electronic system that would control upgraded airlockers then that could be a major factor as well.

Honestly, I see myself being the kids of person that will sooner or laters opt for the biggest tires and best suspension I can add...eventually.

ALSO, I didn't mean to stir up any confrontation. But I guess that's hard to avoid on the internet when discussing topics people are passionate about.
 

Luvmejeeps

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I know op asked between ruby n sport s,BUT....comparing a sport the math is waaay bigger than the 2k some folks are saying. I picked up a jlu sport(with a D44 rear)for 30k. Most rubys are gonna run you 50k. Thats a ~20k diff. The op needs to ask himself just exactly what he needs. Does he NEED the extras the ruby comes with??? Only he can answer that. Some folks are trying to answer it for him from there position in what they need(or want). And i realize 50k ain't much to some folks and they buy a ruby just because they want it,and thats great too.

Auto makers make different trims,because people come in all different shapes n sizes.

Please respect other peoples choices. (N stop the name calling,and down trodding here)Especially when it involves something we all love. JEEPS baby Yeah!!!
 

InvertedLogic

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Will the sway bar and locker still work on upgraded gears and suspension kits?

Honestly, I don't even know if I'm askign the right questions here because I'm so new to all of this information. People are writing that when you go with bigger tires that you have to "re-gear." My early comprehension of this mean that you'd have to replace the entire differential and axles...basically the entire bottom end. Will those stock components still work with the new parts?

Yes both of those features will still work. The axle housing that the sway bar attaches to is unaffected by the gear set inside. The lockers are part of what is called the "carrier" inside the differential. When regearing, a new ring gear is installed on the carrier with the locker, a new pinion gear is installed, then everything is put back inside the stock housing.

That said, with the stock 4.10 ratio, there should be no need to regear until 37"ish tires.
 
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Yes both of those features will still work. The axle housing that the sway bar attaches to is unaffected by the gear set inside. The lockers are part of what is called the "carrier" inside the differential. When regearing, a new ring gear is installed on the carrier with the locker, a new pinion gear is installed, then everything is put back inside the stock housing.

That said, with the stock 4.10 ratio, there should be no need to regear until 37"ish tires.

I love this answer because it gives me specific things (words) to look up! Thank you.
 

Carbonalpine

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I love this answer because it gives me specific things (words) to look up! Thank you.
You should know he’s referring to the Rubicon stock gear ratio. The Sport has 3.45 which is more than capable of running 33”, you can also throw on 35’s on there but that will be your choice with those gears. The new 8 speed helps a ton
 

Wanderingwheelz

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Out of the box, the Rubicon is quite capable as an off road vehicle. The Sport, not so much. Stronger axles, electronic lockers, differential gearing, transfer case, 33" all terrain tires and electronic sway bar disconnect make a BIG difference, For those of us that do take our vehicles off road, the Sport is not within 2% of a Rubicon. Quit spouting such nonsense.
Someone looks like they could use a back rub. Or more... :)
 

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