Which crossbars or rack to buy?

[Santos_Prod.]

wife and i love to go fishing, and kayaking. we also camp. I mainly been wanting to carry kayaks and fishing rods. That's my #1 goal at the moment so with that mentioned

What cross bar brand should I buy to do this job?

In the future however i may want a rack.. which one would you guys recommend my goal for the future would be for a RTT, awning.. but I'd like to be able to switch it up. Say one weekend we want to take our kayak we won't utilize a RTT. I just want something that can do it all.. but idk if a rack will be overkill for just cargo and kayak... Another question i had was if i get crossbars can i attach crossbars onto a future rack? If so then any recommendations on that route? Thanks i have seen the Garvin adventure rack and the gobi rack a well maybe those are potential future racks... But what cross bars can i go for now and later mount them onto the potential rack I'd buy? The only purpose for a rack would be RTT for more weight capacity... So that's why I'm thinking long term what bars are good

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[Reinen]

The Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform is pretty much the pinnacle of racks. Extremely adaptable and strong. If you don't remove your HT, look at Maximus-3's Rhino Rack. It's the strongest and sleekest looking. Look at Rhino Rack's Backbone System if you do remove your HT. It's easier to remove the HT & rack but it isn't quite as strong. These racks are adaptable to whatever you may want to carry on your roof (within the static and dynamic weight limits). This is the buy once cry once option.

Exoskeleton racks like the Gobi have the benefit of working with a soft top, but they can be loud with air swirling around all those extra bars. They also have a lower weight capacity because of the long distance to the support points. Some consider them ugly but to each their own. This would be the top tier for soft tops, 2nd tier for hard tops.

You need to be careful of weight with the cross bars that latch onto the hard top without additional support. There's no metal up there, just HT plastic which can break if overloaded. Probably fine for fishing rods and the weight of a kayak (be sure to consider wind resistance on a highway) but definitely not a RTT or awning. Anything you get later on that will support a RTT & awning will make the cross bars you got useless. This would be a cheaper stop-gap choice but a waste if you ever want something heavier up there.

 

[REWJeep]

I got the Thule load bars with the rectangular cross section because we have two other setups like that in the family and thus have a number of accessories such as kayak mounts and load stops. I put several minor scratches in my roof the first time that I put them on the Wrangler. Now I wrap the far end in a rag or an old sock before I put the load bar on top of the roof. They have more wind noise than I remember the same cross-sectioned bars having on other cars, but that might be the nature of the Wrangler's (hard top) roof more so than the bars. They work well, but I can't say that I'm super excited by them.

Update on 1 June 2023: The load bars weigh not quite 8 pounds each. Based on the weight of one of those pickets of 55 ounces, the total weight of the wood was 90 pounds.

 

[Santos_Prod.]

The Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform is pretty much the pinnacle of racks. Extremely adaptable and strong. If you don't remove your HT, look at Maximus-3's Rhino Rack. It's the strongest and sleekest looking. Look at Rhino Rack's Backbone System if you do remove your HT. It's easier to remove the HT & rack but it isn't quite as strong. These racks are adaptable to whatever you may want to carry on your roof (within the static and dynamic weight limits). This is the buy once cry once option.

Exoskeleton racks like the Gobi have the benefit of working with a soft top, but they can be loud with air swirling around all those extra bars. They also have a lower weight capacity because of the long distance to the support points. Some consider them ugly but to each their own. This would be the top tier for soft tops, 2nd tier for hard tops.

You need to be careful of weight with the cross bars that latch onto the hard top without additional support. There's no metal up there, just HT plastic which can break if overloaded. Probably fine for fishing rods and the weight of a kayak (be sure to consider wind resistance on a highway) but definitely not a RTT or awning. Anything you get later on that will support a RTT & awning will make the cross bars you got useless. This would be a cheaper stop-gap choice but a waste if you ever want something heavier up there.

So basically if i plant to get a rack in the future just skip the cross bars and get s roof rack? if i did that how do I mount up my kayaks? Without cross bars? I'm new to this so sorry about ignorance. If it came down to it i think it would be between the rhino rack and the Garvin adventure rack.. although a mesh roof rack would be great to help w cargo as well... Main point is how do i mount kayaks and rods into s rack without using crossbars? I thought we still needed them no?

 

[Santos_Prod.]

I got the Thule load bars with the rectangular cross section because we have two other setups like that in the family and thus have a number of accessories such as kayak mounts and load stops. I put several minor scratches in my roof the first time that I put them on the Wrangler. Now I wrap the far end in a rag or an old sock before I put the load bar on top of the roof. They have more wind noise than I remember the same cross-sectioned bars having on other cars, but that might be the nature of the Wrangler's (hard top) roof more so than the bars. They work well, but I can't say that I'm super excited by them.

What's the dynamic and static weight capacity on these? Care to show s link to check them out? Also if i wanted s roof rack would buying these crossbars be s waste of money? or would they just be added into the rack? It's a bit confusing because i can see how a kayak can be mounted onto these.. however how would you mount kayaks and fishing rods on a roof rack without cross bars?

 

[REWJeep]

What's the dynamic and static weight capacity on these? Care to show s link to check them out? Also if i wanted s roof rack would buying these crossbars be s waste of money? or would they just be added into the rack? It's a bit confusing because i can see how a kayak can be mounted onto these.. however how would you mount kayaks and fishing rods on a roof rack without cross bars?

This is what I have: https://www.thule.com/en-us/roof-ra...018,variation:roof-type-617954|Rain%20gutters . I think that the load is limited by the fact that the Jeep's roof and rain gutters are basically plastic. The Thule instructions say that the load limit is 220 pounds.

By the way, I am glad that I bought the eight lock cylinder keying kit even though I needed only four because my wife subsequently bought load bars for her X3 and we've now got them keyed the same. You can order extra keys and extra keys and cylinders from Thule if need be.

I have no experience with roof racks, but my guess would be that you can have one or the other, but not both at the same time. That's just a guess, though.

Back when I would take the kids camping, I used a kayak mount like this: https://www.thule.com/en-us/water-racks/kayak-and-canoe-racks/thule-compass-_-890. We gave the kayaks to one of the kids when the grandkids were old enough to start paddling. My most recent experience with these kayaks was this past spring on my son-in-law's work truck. He has a ladder rack, which is effectively just load bars. We made some cushions out of closed cell foam that I had bought from Amazon and strapped the kayaks to the ladder rack. He drove them 1000 miles with no issue. You could probably fashion foam blocks to support kayaks on a roof rack and then secure them with straps. Another by-the-way: I really like the Thule straps. They are easier to use than ratchet straps and the buckles are well padded to keep from damaging the vehicle.

 

[Reinen]

So basically if i plant to get a rack in the future just skip the cross bars and get s roof rack? if i did that how do I mount up my kayaks? Without cross bars? I'm new to this so sorry about ignorance. If it came down to it i think it would be between the rhino rack and the Garvin adventure rack.. although a mesh roof rack would be great to help w cargo as well... Main point is how do i mount kayaks and rods into s rack without using crossbars? I thought we still needed them no?

The Rhino Rack Pioneer platform has T channels along every rail. You can mount kayak carriers wherever you want. Or you can make your own holder and utilize the T channels or just strap it down to the rail, it's extremely versatile.

The Rhino Rack has multiple fishing rod holders. If you ski/snowboard the ski/snowboard holders can also double as fishing rod holders.

The Pioneer Platform is exactly that, a platform that you build whatever custom carrying configuration you want.

 

[Reinen]

What's the dynamic and static weight capacity on these? Care to show s link to check them out? Also if i wanted s roof rack would buying these crossbars be s waste of money? or would they just be added into the rack? It's a bit confusing because i can see how a kayak can be mounted onto these.. however how would you mount kayaks and fishing rods on a roof rack without cross bars?

I look at this pic and I think that load is risky. Those bars just connect to the the rain gutters and they're not all that strong. They do break. The HT is holding the entire weight and it's not strong either. I don't see a point in risking an expensive hard top over cheap crossbars. That amount of wood is likely the limit as to what those rain gutter connected crossbars can carry.

If you get a rack that can support a RTT these bars would likely be useless. You may be able to repurpose them into bars mounted on the rack with a generic adapter but it would be a bit of a cludge.

 

[Santos_Prod.]

I look at this pic and I think that load is risky. Those bars just connect to the the rain gutters and they're not all that strong. They do break. The HT is holding the entire weight and it's not strong either. I don't see a point in risking an expensive hard top over cheap crossbars. That amount of wood is likely the limit as to what those rain gutter connected crossbars can carry.

If you get a rack that can support a RTT these bars would likely be useless. You may be able to repurpose them into bars mounted on the rack with a generic adapter but it would be a bit of a cludge.

I am not great when it comes to drilling for the rhino rack.. what's your take on this ? Is there a non drilling option i understand the drilling is to install directly to the framework of that's the case i may have to take it to s professional i suck at this kind of work..

 

[Reinen]

I am not great when it comes to drilling for the rhino rack.. what's your take on this ? Is there a non drilling option i understand the drilling is to install directly to the framework of that's the case i may have to take it to s professional i suck at this kind of work..

The non-drilling options have a severely reduced weight capacity. The drilling permits an interior support bracket to bolt to the exterior rack.

The drilling is not difficult to do but it's definitely a situation that calls for measuring 5x and drilling once.

 

[Steph1]

I'm currently have the Rhino cross bars but would prefer a platform style rack. So I'm debating between the rhino and the Barricade. It needs to be full width but still allow me to still tilt back my sunrider for hardtop.

 

[STW]

The JL/JLU/JT hard top is just not designed or built to carry weight.

That may seem strange to people who are used to photos of overlanders with heavily loaded racks, J79s and LRs. The Jeep wrangler is a soft-top convertible you can order with a hardtop for weather convenience--same concept as a 70s MGB, haha.

The roll-cage and body/tub can carry plenty of weight, which results in the options Reinen listed for weight-bearing racks. These options get you right where you need for overlanding kinds of loads.

There are a couple non-drill racks with moderately decent static and dynamic load ratings. The DeeZee is one I tried out. The DeeZee rack attaches to the rain gutters but it carries the weight on tiny padded feet that rest on the outer curved edge of the hardtop, presumably where the hardtop is strongest. It's rated for a static load that gets into the range required for a roof top tent. It seems well made for the price, and I might have kept it if I really wanted to prioritize not drilling the hardtop.

But the DeeZee was bulky and I wouldn't have wanted it up there all the time. I considered a set up where the DeeZee stays attached to the RTT, goes on and comes off with the RTT.

In the end I went with the Maximus-3/Pioneer Platform because it's low-profile and easy to live with. My RTT and 180 awning go on and off easily. I drilled the hardtop on a 3 week old new JLR.

Even though I usually don't have anything on the Pioneer Platform itself, I've used it to carry a variety of things (including a queen size mattress), often at the last minute. Carry some tie down straps and Voile straps in the Jeep and you're ready for a lot. Rhino Rack makes the Pioneer Platform and offers lots of accessories for it, and I will pick up something for skis. All last winter it worked fine for strapping skis right to the platform.

I honestly think the only reason Mopar offers crossbars at all is for people who want to put skis, snowboards, or fishing poles up there, something long and light. And there is reluctance to tell you what the weight allowance is for gutter-mounted crossbars, but the number I recall being told was 75 lbs. If someone knows an official number Jeep has stated for carrying on their crossbars, I'm happy to be corrected.

 

[Santos_Prod.]

The JL/JLU/JT hard top is just not designed or built to carry weight.

That may seem strange to people who are used to photos of overlanders with heavily loaded racks, J79s and LRs. The Jeep wrangler is a soft-top convertible you can order with a hardtop for weather convenience--same concept as a 70s MGB, haha.

The roll-cage and body/tub can carry plenty of weight, which results in the options Reinen listed for weight-bearing racks. These options get you right where you need for overlanding kinds of loads.

There are a couple non-drill racks with moderately decent static and dynamic load ratings. The DeeZee is one I tried out. The DeeZee rack attaches to the rain gutters but it carries the weight on tiny padded feet that rest on the outer curved edge of the hardtop, presumably where the hardtop is strongest. It's rated for a static load that gets into the range required for a roof top tent. It seems well made for the price, and I might have kept it if I really wanted to prioritize not drilling the hardtop.

But the DeeZee was bulky and I wouldn't have wanted it up there all the time. I considered a set up where the DeeZee stays attached to the RTT, goes on and comes off with the RTT.

In the end I went with the Maximus-3/Pioneer Platform because it's low-profile and easy to live with. My RTT and 180 awning go on and off easily. I drilled the hardtop on a 3 week old new JLR.

Even though I usually don't have anything on the Pioneer Platform itself, I've used it to carry a variety of things (including a queen size mattress), often at the last minute. Carry some tie down straps and Voile straps in the Jeep and you're ready for a lot. Rhino Rack makes the Pioneer Platform and offers lots of accessories for it, and I will pick up something for skis. All last winter it worked fine for strapping skis right to the platform.

I honestly think the only reason Mopar offers crossbars at all is for people who want to put skis, snowboards, or fishing poles up there, something long and light. And there is reluctance to tell you what the weight allowance is for gutter-mounted crossbars, but the number I recall being told was 75 lbs. If someone knows an official number Jeep has stated for carrying on their crossbars, I'm happy to be corrected.

I'll have to look at the deezee rack. I also stumbled upon "Garvin expedition full rack" that one seems to grab my attention. States 600lbs static limit and 300lbs dynamic however it's at $2k. The only thing with the rhino is comparing it w/ the Garvin expedition it doesn't look like it can. Hold cargo boxes.. it's just a flat platform.. so idk... Still on the fence it would be rhino or Garvin that i may decide soon here.. gobi seemed like a good option as well... Because it does seem to have a heavier 800lb static limit same dynamic and states no drilling involved. That is also $2.5k.. i just wonder if rhino has that basket design like the "Gobi Stealth rack" or "Garvin expedition full rack". Also Gobi includes cross bars .. Garvin does not ugh so i may pick between Gobi and Garvin.. rhino ... No so much the drilling a d being a flat platform w no basket design doesn't grab my attention

 

[STW]

... i just wonder if rhino has that basket design like the "Gobi Stealth rack" or "Garvin expedition full rack". Also Gobi includes cross bars ...

Check the RhinoRack site because they have lots of options and accessories that bolt to their Pioneer Platform, including rails that hold stuff in place, baskets, and attachments for cargo boxes

 

[BullMoose1776]

I took, have the Thule cross bars, but they are round. Good for all you see here, TERRIBLE for the Thule Kayak carrier I have. The rotate on the round cross bar.

I dream of one day having a Rhino Rack Platform with the Backbone system.

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