Where did you Ground on passenger side for aux switches?

Djmatt85

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Just tried that....twice....and same issue. So no, not resolved. I would hate to pull the wire back out and open it and test it just to find out it is a faulty product. Maybe I should try another ground spot. Do you have an easy one you can recommend just to see if it works?
If you have a multimeter, set to DC voltage. Connect the red lead to the wire from the switch. Then use the black lead on a ground (make sure you’re contacting metal) . You should read ~12.6V. Maybe even go back to the negative terminal on the battery just to be sure.

Also, you may have a bad LED light, blown aux switch fuse, faulty switch, etc. The voltage check should give a good direction of which way to go.





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Jcsieman

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If you have a multimeter, set to DC voltage. Connect the red lead to the wire from the switch. Then use the black lead on a ground (make sure you’re contacting metal) . You should read ~12.6V. Maybe even go back to the negative terminal on the battery just to be sure.

Also, you may have a bad LED light, blown aux switch fuse, faulty switch, etc. The voltage check should give a good direction of which way to go.
Thanks. Got that out and have it sitting in the passenger seat for tomorrow.
 

Jcsieman

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Good luck
Put the meter in a wall outlet, lit up. Exposed the pink and blue wire and put the red line of the volt meter to that and the black wire to the passenger side ground bolt (with Jeep on and AUX4 presses in). I assume that means no power (for some reason) going to the pink and blue wire? The ground bolt doesn’t appear to be covered in any sort of paint that would not allow connection to the metal....so I’m sort of at a loss unless they don’t wire my stuff correctly, right?
 

Djmatt85

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Put the meter in a wall outlet, lit up. Exposed the pink and blue wire and put the red line of the volt meter to that and the black wire to the passenger side ground bolt (with Jeep on and AUX4 presses in). I assume that means no power (for some reason) going to the pink and blue wire? The ground bolt doesn’t appear to be covered in any sort of paint that would not allow connection to the metal....so I’m sort of at a loss unless they don’t wire my stuff correctly, right?
Is your meter set to DC voltage? If you just plugged it to a wall outlet and got a reading, it’s in AC mode. If you are in DC mode and still have no voltage, look at fuses or try another output wire from the aux switches to see if you have voltage there.
 

Jcsieman

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Is your meter set to DC voltage? If you just plugged it to a wall outlet and got a reading, it’s in AC mode. If you are in DC mode and still have no voltage, look at fuses or try another output wire from the aux switches to see if you have voltage there.
So, my meter did not have a dc setting, so I bought a $20 one with both. Nothing happened when I tested the AUX4 wire connection under the glove box. So, I tested the batter itself....nothing. Turns out the one I bought didn’t even work! So, back to the store..opened and tested it in the store to make sure this time, got home, and got readings on the batter and the wired connection inside. So, long story short, I’m left with no other assumption than Rugged Ridge sold me a $100 pile of crap and the LEDs have been the problem this whole time! Sad I had to work backwards to figure that out, and sad I have to drive around with everything off or put it together just to take it off again when the replacement arrives. But, I very much appreciate the help on here! It was a big help! Bad volt reader and bad led lights in one project ha. If I didn’t have bad luck I wouldn’t have any luck!
 

Djmatt85

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So, my meter did not have a dc setting, so I bought a $20 one with both. Nothing happened when I tested the AUX4 wire connection under the glove box. So, I tested the batter itself....nothing. Turns out the one I bought didn’t even work! So, back to the store..opened and tested it in the store to make sure this time, got home, and got readings on the batter and the wired connection inside. So, long story short, I’m left with no other assumption than Rugged Ridge sold me a $100 pile of crap and the LEDs have been the problem this whole time! Sad I had to work backwards to figure that out, and sad I have to drive around with everything off or put it together just to take it off again when the replacement arrives. But, I very much appreciate the help on here! It was a big help! Bad volt reader and bad led lights in one project ha. If I didn’t have bad luck I wouldn’t have any luck!
One other thing to try is to make sure the wiring is hooked up correctly to the LED. I assume this is laid out in the instructions, but just throwing it out there. If for some reason the wires are backwards, the LEDs won’t turn on since direction matters.
 

Jcsieman

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And many days later he said, “let there be light!” Turns or the problem was with the LED lights the whole time. The product delivered came with a bad fused (go figure). After narrowing it down to no other option, I bought a fuse for $2 and presto.... no cord visible to the naked eye and each light had a perfect spot for it to be mounted. Even the rear seat had a spot that allowed the seats to fold down without risking crushing the light. My wife hates it, my daughters love it ha
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Showtimelinh

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Looks nice, where did you mount the rear LEDs? About to do this mod this week. TIA
 

Jcsieman

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Looks nice, where did you mount the rear LEDs? About to do this mod this week. TIA
I wanted to be able to fold the back seats flat without crushing the lights, so I ziptied each light between the metal support and the swing arm. They are safe in this position. The passenger side light could not be zipped on both ends due to the 60/40 split. The other side I left resting on the floor. For the zip loop (since the pic doesn’t show it) the “strap” goes around the support away from the light and swing arm....(in the “hole” of the seat brace sobit doesn’t move when the seat is laid flat).

I put the other lights (set came with 6) under the dash and driver/passenger seats. The driver and passenger seats was the easiest....they had elastic bands that allowed the lights to be slid behind. The bands hold the lights in place without any assistance.



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Showtimelinh

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Thanks, hoping for a quick and easy install on this
 

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Owners manual or You Tube goes a long way towards solving problems. When I hooked up my driving lights to AUX3 you have to go into your apps and the settings for Aux Switches and make three clicks to get it hooked up. One decision is if you want it to come on with the ignition or all the time with the battery; 2) do you want the accessory to stay on when you punch the switch and then go off with the switch or just stay on while you push the switch and 3) do you want the accessory to say in the same mode when the car is stopped and then restarted. That is, if you turn the car off with say the lights on, do you want the lights to still be on when you restart. It's a pretty simple process.



This video and at the end it shows how to program the switch
 

NickTinVA

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There is an unused ground point behind front passenger kick panel. Use it.

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I cannot get that panel off to save my ever loving life.
 

Swanny297

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Just tried that....twice....and same issue. So no, not resolved. I would hate to pull the wire back out and open it and test it just to find out it is a faulty product. Maybe I should try another ground spot. Do you have an easy one you can recommend just to see if it works?
I just installed rock lights and connected to Aux 3 - at first they would not power on (I tried before securing everything - I tried to just wrap the ground wire at first and no go I thought I did something wrong than I hard grounded to a stud in the engine bay and they worked - for me it was a ground issue - make sure your switch sertings are right in your radio.
 

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