What's your height after lift

[engineXI]

I have a small garage that has a storage loft. I measured by highest point of the wrangler at 72.5". The lowest point on my garage is the door which is at 79.25". This is plenty of space.

Looking to move to 37" tires with a 3.5" lift (current 33" stock tires). Will this actually move me up 5.5"? It still gives me 1.25" clearance.

I'm curious to know what lifts/tires others have and what their height measurement is. If it is easier, maybe just measure to top of fender or something because to measure the roof height you need to put a leveled straight edge across (which most people probably won't do)

Thanks.

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[Levin_tom]

I have a small garage that has a storage loft. I measured by highest point of the wrangler at 72.5". The lowest point on my garage is the door which is at 79.25". This is plenty of space.

Looking to move to 37" tires with a 3.5" lift (current 33" stock tires). Will this actually move me up 5.5"? It still gives me 1.25" clearance.

I'm curious to know what lifts/tires others have and what their height measurement is. If it is easier, maybe just measure to top of fender or something because to measure the roof height you need to put a leveled straight edge across (which most people probably won't do)

Thanks.

I have 2.5 Metal Cloak GC and 35s. I haven’t measured exact height. Take into consideration, most lift heights aren’t always exact after installation. I am closer to 3.25” on mine. I believe RK is more true to height than most manufacturers, but there will always be a variation so you may be cutting it close. What lift are you considering?

 

[omnitonic]

It's pretty tricky to figure out what you're going to get out of a lift kit. Are their numbers for a Sport or a Rubicon? Hard top or soft? Steel bumpers or plastic? Which engine?

About the best you can do is find somebody with the same setup as you who installed a particular lift, and compare notes.

To butcher a classic movie quote: Looking a the lift kit is like looking at the future. Until you've lifted it, what do you really know? And then, of course, it's too late.

 

[Roky]

I have a small garage that has a storage loft. I measured by highest point of the wrangler at 72.5". The lowest point on my garage is the door which is at 79.25". This is plenty of space.

Looking to move to 37" tires with a 3.5" lift (current 33" stock tires). Will this actually move me up 5.5"? It still gives me 1.25" clearance.

I'm curious to know what lifts/tires others have and what their height measurement is. If it is easier, maybe just measure to top of fender or something because to measure the roof height you need to put a leveled straight edge across (which most people probably won't do)

Thanks.

3.5” lift, 37 nittos, soft top….. to the highest bow in the top is 80”

 

[Headbarcode]

It's pretty tricky to figure out what you're going to get out of a lift kit. Are their numbers for a Sport or a Rubicon? Hard top or soft? Steel bumpers or plastic? Which engine?

About the best you can do is find somebody with the same setup as you who installed a particular lift, and compare notes.

To butcher a classic movie quote: Looking a the lift kit is like looking at the future. Until you've lifted it, what do you really know? And then, of course, it's too late.

All lifts are designed around the Rubicon, which is why non Rubis always net a good deal more than advertised height. Plus, it also depends on what a specific lift kit was designed for. For example, the 3.5" Metalcloak Gamechanger is designed to handle the additional weight of armor (sliders, bumpers, carriers, skids), recovery equipment, on board air, and passengers with day packs before dropping below advertised height and losing necessary tire and ground clearance. Mine is still sitting at 4" over stock height with everything but the main belly pans and passengers.

 

[mwilk012]

Just let some air out of the tires to get in and out of the garage?

 

[AVGeek99]

All lifts are designed around the Rubicon, which is why non Rubis always net a good deal more than advertised height. Plus, it also depends on what a specific lift kit was designed for. For example, the 3.5" Metalcloak Gamechanger is designed to handle the additional weight of armor (sliders, bumpers, carriers, skids), recovery equipment, on board air, and passengers with day packs before dropping below advertised height and losing necessary tire and ground clearance. Mine is still sitting at 4" over stock height with everything but the main belly pans and passengers.

How is the on road ride with the MC? The 2.5" Gamechanger is on my short list and I'm trying to get a good idea how they ride on the road. I know when buying a lift like the MC GC you're buying it primarily for the off-road capability. I'm wondering how much on road comfort (if any) you're sacrificing. My JLUR will be a daily driver, so I'd still like a good ride on the road. Also, I live in MN so wheeling trips involve long road trips for me.

In your description you mention the MC GCs are meant to handle all that extra weight, which tells me the springs are pretty stiff. Loaded down this probably is fine, but how did it ride when it was closer to stock weight. I'll be adding bumpers, winch, sliders, skids over time, but initially will just be stock with plastic bumpers.

I know ride quality can be very subjective and there are many aspects. What I'm wondering most is how it handles bumpy (paved) roads, potholes and expansion joints. Do you feel every little thing or is stuff like that damped pretty well?

Also of course, what shocks are you running?

 

[Ruby Mike]

I have the GC 3.5 on my diesel. The lift is closer to 4 inches and I fit into my garage with about 3 inches to spare. An important thing to remember, the only difference between the 2.5 and 3.5 lift is the springs. MC finally came out with a diesel lift, again the only difference is in the springs. I am fully set up using MC and am very happy with the setup. Even when I finally get the 37 inch tires I will fit in the garage with a couple inches room.

 

[frogger2020]

Some height will also be added if you get a roof rack. I decided to get just the 35” tires and a small 1.5 lift on my Rubicon with a rhino rack. I have about an 1” of space between the garage door and the roof rack.

 

[Ruby Mike]

Some height will also be added if you get a roof rack. I decided to get just the 35” tires and a small 1.5 lift on my Rubicon with a rhino rack. I have about an 1” of space between the garage door and the roof rack.

If I ever decide to get a roof rack, the jeep will have to sit outside. My garage door is to low for much more than what I have. In fact the ceiling is only 7 feet from the floor. But it works.

 

[Headbarcode]

How is the on road ride with the MC? The 2.5" Gamechanger is on my short list and I'm trying to get a good idea how they ride on the road. I know when buying a lift like the MC GC you're buying it primarily for the off-road capability. I'm wondering how much on road comfort (if any) you're sacrificing. My JLUR will be a daily driver, so I'd still like a good ride on the road. Also, I live in MN so wheeling trips involve long road trips for me.

In your description you mention the MC GCs are meant to handle all that extra weight, which tells me the springs are pretty stiff. Loaded down this probably is fine, but how did it ride when it was closer to stock weight. I'll be adding bumpers, winch, sliders, skids over time, but initially will just be stock with plastic bumpers.

I know ride quality can be very subjective and there are many aspects. What I'm wondering most is how it handles bumpy (paved) roads, potholes and expansion joints. Do you feel every little thing or is stuff like that damped pretty well?

Also of course, what shocks are you running?

I went with the 6-packs on my 3.5" Gamechanger. It is definitely a firmer and more controlled spring and shock combo than factory, but not at all in a bad way. I got used to it in well under the 1st 100 miles. It really showed me how mushy the factory setup was and how easily it could feel unsettled when hitting bumps or dips mid curve. When I first installed it, the Jeep was still factory from the chassis up. The only weight added to the body at that time, was the 38" spare.

In my opinion, the factory springs are too soft and the shocks had too much dampening and not enough rebound over the harsher hits. That made it want to skip over the choppy areas. The Metalcloak springs are stiffer and the shocks seem to react quicker over those same areas, which I like because the tires stay more glued to the ground. So yeah it rides firmer, but for a brick sitting 7" higher and 6" wider from lift and larger tires, the overall ride and handling is more solid and planted feeling. All maneuvers feel more confident and sure-footed. I think if it was softer sprung at the same height it would wallow too much, like if the sway bars were deleted.

At first, my Jeep was a tad over 4.25" above stock. It's dropped to about 4" after the winch with mounting plate, sliders, rear bumper, hinged carrier, compressor with its accessories, and rigging. I like that it easily carries weight without dropping below the advertised height that I need for tire clearance.

I daily drive my Jeep, so I fully relate to wanting a happy balance of offroad capability without feeling like I'm commuting or chasing groceries in a backhoe. Another factor that helps with chopped up roads is the taller sidewall of the bigger tires. They instantly scale down the size and impact of every bump, compared to a smaller diameter tire. I've also stuck with C-rated tires, so couple that with the larger sidewall and you get some added cushion.

 

[engineXI]

Firstly, thanks everyone for their input, it will help me in making my decision. In the end I may go safe with the dealer installed mopar kit and 35" tires instead of a more aggressive move to 3.5" and 37". I may just want that roof rack!

I saw you guys talking about the MC kit, and it was 1 of the ones I was originally looking at, but I crossed it off the list because it says it requires a new axle. Curious how yall handled that.

 

[Ruby Mike]

Firstly, thanks everyone for their input, it will help me in making my decision. In the end I may go safe with the dealer installed mopar kit and 35" tires instead of a more aggressive move to 3.5" and 37". I may just want that roof rack!

I saw you guys talking about the MC kit, and it was 1 of the ones I was originally looking at, but I crossed it off the list because it says it requires a new axle. Curious how yall handled that.

Requires a new axle?????? I have never heard that before. I am running stock D44 on the Rubicon and am having no problems. I thought about the Mopar lift but you are using stock control arms. Whatever route you choose, good wheeling.

 

[Roky]

I think he meant driveshaft.

 

[Ruby Mike]

I think he meant driveshaft.

Then that makes sense. I replaced my front drive shaft when I did the lift. The stock drive shaft is really thick and could easily cause problems.

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