Whats the solution for sagging suspension because of too much weight?

[Roky]

When I head out for expeditions, I am fully loaded. Adding up aftermarket stuff's weight I have to have at LEAST 1000lbs over bone stock weight. It's so bad I can't drive at night because people think I'm driving with my high beams on.

I have Rubicon suspension take offs but still lose an honest 2 inches of clearance in the rear when fully loaded.

How do I solve this?

Why not lift it?

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[fat_head]

Why not lift it?

I can, but then I'd have a lifted Jeep that still points headlights into the sky.

 

[anotherWS6]

I wonder if you could fit Sport front springs in the rear?

Good G dont try this or anything this fella ever says ever again.

Lift kits aren't "heavy duty" type S. They are meant to lift a vehicle, not make the suspension carry more weight.

Air bags work. So do coil spacers. Think about some suspension type bump stops as well.

Whats the solution for sagging suspension because of too much weight?.....

Same solution as tits. Either accept em and like or spend money on fake ones that you dont like lots of the time. Or get helper air bags as suggested.

 

[OnlyOne]

Most aftermarket springs are built with extra weight in mind. Factory springs don't. Get some good quality springs and move on. Synergy comes to mind, they keep the factory rake for just these occasions.

 

[InvertedLogic]

Lift kits aren't "heavy duty" type S. They are meant to lift a vehicle, not make the suspension carry more weight.

Coil spring spring rate and length are selected for both ride height AND expected load. You cannot have a super light spring rate, overload it so that the coil is collapsed, and throw a coil spacer on there an expect it to work well. You can only compress a spring so far before it binds on itself, at which point, it is much smarter to have a properly spec'd spring rate for the application.

 

[D60]

Coil spring spring rate and length are selected for both ride height AND expected load. You cannot have a super light spring rate, overload it so that the coil is collapsed, and throw a coil spacer on there an expect it to work well. You can only compress a spring so far before it binds on itself, at which point, it is much smarter to have a properly spec'd spring rate for the application.

I remember reading years ago that coils are technically torsion springs 'cause they actually twist when loaded. That concept has always felt like a real mind-fawk to me but I remembered 'cause I find it fascinating.

Anyway, I totally agree he needs an increased spring rate, not just lifting the existing soft coils.

I dunno if it'd take some fab but front Sport springs just came to mind as a budget way to maybe get where he needs to be. The spring rate of front springs has gotta be quite a bit more to allow for the weight of the engine, but they're a couple inches less than Rubi front springs.

I remember years ago Scott at Rockstomper was running Aerostar coils on a truggy - I've always loved finding applications for stock, JY parts that are readily available and cheap to free.... although that premise is pretty much the antithesis of this forum where most users seem to have way more money than time or independent thought

 

[eman20]

@fat_head head did you ever find a solution to your Jeep sag problem ?

 

[OllieChristopher]

I know what you're saying, but the lbs add up quick. Roof rack is 100lbs, bumper is 100lbs, winch 100lbs, extra spare (6 total tires) 50 lbs, 25 gallons of fluids (gas & water) 125lbs, me 190lbs. (numbers are loosely rounded) I haven't even started packing recovery stuff, camping stuff or anything else and I'm at 665lbs give or take.

I can relate to overloading because I have done it myself on my motorcycles. I've learned to pack light and not take stuff that there is small chance of using.

I can honestly say you can ditch over half that gear and safely overland a few days. Lose one of the spare tires, take only 5 gal each of water and fuel (get a water purifier), and rethink your recovery and camping gear.

No offense intended but your rig is not the right platform for serious expeditions. Even with correct springs you are going to struggle to keep the rig upright in harsh terrain. I know guys such as yourself are doing it. It's still not the intended purpose of a Rubicon Wrangler.

Since you are mentioning expeditions, simply split the gear up with others in the group.

 

[AcesandEights]

Less is more.

Two spares? You could probably carry a nice tire plug kit instead of one of the spares. It'll weigh two lbs. 25 lbs of fluids? How many times have you run out of fuel, and are you wheeling alone? If the answer is never or no, then you can leave the extra fuel at home. Bring a siphon kit. They weigh ounces.

We are in an age of bigger, biggest, more. You might want to be the guy that saves the day, but for every day you've saved, you've overpacked hundreds of other times. It's like the work smarter, not harder adage. What do you bring that you need? What do you bring that would be cool to have? Leave the cool shit at home, and bring what you need. Again, less is more; slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

You create your own problems; let go and create fewer problems.

 

[AcesandEights]

By the way, Old Man Emu (OME) typically offers springs based on weight you're carrying (I believe they have three separate springs for the front and maybe two for the rear, depending on carrying weight). They offer a certain amount of lift 1" for Rubicon, but the springs are "heavier" to carry more weight at the given height. You might try OME>

 

[Jeepmarkjl]

AEV lift is designed for overlanding. They made it for folks with extra weight. It’s not a rock crawler lift. There are better ones for that. While you’ll get a bit more articulation and height it’s really for maintaining clearance in the fender wells with all the extra gear. It also improves highway ride and body roll. Unloaded this lift will be stiffer but I’ve added bumpers winch and a few things that will be on the Jeep no matter what.
That said, boil down the extra stuff to only what you’ll really need. My first trip out I brought too much stuff that was just in the way. Second trip I cut all the stuff I didn’t really use. Im still sagging a bit and AEV lift is going on in a few weeks.

 

[Jeepmarkjl]

AEV lift is designed for overlanding. They made it for folks with extra weight. It’s not a rock crawler lift. There are better ones for that. While you’ll get a bit more articulation and height it’s really for maintaining clearance in the fender wells with all the extra gear. It also improves highway ride and body roll. Unloaded this lift will be stiffer but I’ve added bumpers winch and a few things that will be on the Jeep no matter what.
That said, boil down the extra stuff to only what you’ll really need. My first trip out I brought too much stuff that was just in the way. Second trip I cut all the stuff I didn’t really use. Im still sagging a bit and AEV lift is going on in a few weeks.

I should also add that some folks don’t like the AEV lift bc of the geometry control brackets that hang down by 3/4 of inch bc they think it will limit crawling. Those brackets return the vehicle to stock caster. Better ride and weight handling is it’s purpose. Take a look at Chris Shontz at venture4wd on YT. OR Dan Grec at rodechoseme. They run AEV lift and those guys are packed with gear for overlanding. Dan lived out of his jeep while driving from Alaska to tip of South America and all over Africa. Chris has been living in his Jeep for +4 years exploring way way off rode all over US, Canada and Nova Scotia in some pretty knarly conditions loaded down.

 

[AcesandEights]

@fat_head This may be the answer:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ontrol-arms-heavy-springs.76518/#post-1634340

OME offers three different weights, front and rear.

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