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Whats the real deal with 35's

ejewels

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I am happy with my 33's (rubi tires) on my willys right now. But I think eventually I'll want to do a lift and some (lighter, non e-load) 34 or 35's. Naturally, as I've been bitten with the jeep bug I've read tons of opinions and info on running 35s on any non-rubicon. From what I gather, I'm already a step ahead having the rear dana 44 axle, but still have the 30 upfront. I understand you can run 35s fairly easy on this setup but what seems to be a source of argument is just how much you can safely do offroad without beefier axles. So whats the deal? Anyone running 35s on a non-rubi that wheels it pretty hard? What are the limitations offroad (besides lockers and transfer cases)? And how much more taxing is it on long term reliability, especially on a daily driver?
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We just don’t hear or read about broken axles like we used to years ago. Jeep picked a stronger set of axles for JL and it shows. I say you are good to go.

Having said that, you might want to include a regear in your budget. The stock 3.45 gearing is simply too tall for 35s.

Good luck.
 

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We just don’t hear or read about broken axles as we used to years ago. Jeep picked a stronger set of axles for JL and it shows. I say you are good to go.

Having said that, you might want to include a regear in your budget. The stock 3.45 gearing is simply too tall for 35s.

Good luck.
Agreed, I ran 35s on my JK. Dana 30 up front, 44 rear. Regeared to 4:88. It was awesome. Never had any issues with the axles, but you will wear your ball joints out quicker. When its time to replace them, just get some heavy duty ones.
 

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I am happy with my 33's (rubi tires) on my willys right now. But I think eventually I'll want to do a lift and some (lighter, non e-load) 34 or 35's. Naturally, as I've been bitten with the jeep bug I've read tons of opinions and info on running 35s on any non-rubicon. From what I gather, I'm already a step ahead having the rear dana 44 axle, but still have the 30 upfront. I understand you can run 35s fairly easy on this setup but what seems to be a source of argument is just how much you can safely do offroad without beefier axles. So whats the deal? Anyone running 35s on a non-rubi that wheels it pretty hard? What are the limitations offroad (besides lockers and transfer cases)? And how much more taxing is it on long term reliability, especially on a daily driver?
Most of the guys I wheel with run 35s or 37s on D30s (JK D30s at that). I guess a question is how hard do you wheel? And by that, I don't necessarily mean the difficulty of the obstacles (though that does come into play somewhat), but more how hard are you on the Jeep when you're wheeling? That's going to impact the longevity of the axle most of all. IMO, 35s on a D30 you'll be fine as long as you don't drive like a goober.

Off road, your limitations are really going to be in how hard you can hit a hard obstacle and have the axle survive it. How much wheel speed, wheel hop, etc. You'll be able to do pretty much all the same type of obstacles as someone with beefier axles, just less aggressively. If you're doing properly hard stuff, you might be winching or getting pulled up an obstacle more often to avoid having to goose it, but that's really it. D30s aren't made out of paper mache, they'll hold up to a lot more than the Internet is willing to admit.
 

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I am happy with my 33's (rubi tires) on my willys right now. But I think eventually I'll want to do a lift and some (lighter, non e-load) 34 or 35's. Naturally, as I've been bitten with the jeep bug I've read tons of opinions and info on running 35s on any non-rubicon. From what I gather, I'm already a step ahead having the rear dana 44 axle, but still have the 30 upfront. I understand you can run 35s fairly easy on this setup but what seems to be a source of argument is just how much you can safely do offroad without beefier axles. So whats the deal? Anyone running 35s on a non-rubi that wheels it pretty hard? What are the limitations offroad (besides lockers and transfer cases)? And how much more taxing is it on long term reliability, especially on a daily driver?
Dana 30/35 stock axles with KO2 35’s. Zero issues. Granted I am swapping axles for better gearing, lockers and an eventual move to 37’s.

Jeep Wrangler JL Whats the real deal with 35's D06C6FFC-1A37-4BA9-BC37-69119EB13D83
 

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ejewels

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Thanks guys, so it def looks like you can still wheel it pretty good. I just wasn’t sure if upgrading axles was a must but it sounds like that’s more for more serious stuff. Its hard to tell from a rubicon gatekeeper trying to justify their purchase or a sport owner running 35s that wheels it hard so I’m glad I posted this.
 
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ejewels

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Most of the guys I wheel with run 35s or 37s on D30s (JK D30s at that). I guess a question is how hard do you wheel? And by that, I don't necessarily mean the difficulty of the obstacles (though that does come into play somewhat), but more how hard are you on the Jeep when you're wheeling? That's going to impact the longevity of the axle most of all. IMO, 35s on a D30 you'll be fine as long as you don't drive like a goober.

Off road, your limitations are really going to be in how hard you can hit a hard obstacle and have the axle survive it. How much wheel speed, wheel hop, etc. You'll be able to do pretty much all the same type of obstacles as someone with beefier axles, just less aggressively. If you're doing properly hard stuff, you might be winching or getting pulled up an obstacle more often to avoid having to goose it, but that's really it. D30s aren't made out of paper mache, they'll hold up to a lot more than the Internet is willing to admit.
Wouldn’t be wheeling that hard. Just was curious about it. Thanks for the info!
 

Some Random Guy

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Just don’t bump it over obstacles and you should be good. Especially if you don’t have lockers.
FYSA, you’ll need bumpstop or higher clearance fenders once moving above Rubi tires. Also, if someone is still using stock wheels they may need spacers once moving up to 35’s to clear suspension components. How much is lift kit dependent.
 

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Wouldn’t be wheeling that hard. Just was curious about it. Thanks for the info!
I wouldn't worry about it too much then, you'll be able to do plenty. Always good to remember you can break anything off road if you do something dumb lol. Plenty of people out there who've broken D44s and D60s getting after something using more balls than brains. Just try to avoid doing stuff in a dumb way and you'll be fine.
 

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Yea, its wicked how capable these rigs are stock. I ran Kane Creek (to put it in perspective) 100% stock (but with a winch) in my JK sport. I eventually ran 35s (not regeared bc I was going to get new axles anyways) but I also did truss it for peace of mind and upgraded the ball joints. Did that for longer than planned and it held tried and true. As long as you're not wheeling like an Ultra4 truck then you should be good.

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To start with, it is a appearance issue. The 4 door wranglers, just look better with 35’s. Particularly if they are lifted. Plus you have a off road advantages with added ground clearance, and more sidewall.
But with 35’s, most have to re-gear, and it will impact negatively somewhat your braking, and fuel economy.
 
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ejewels

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To start with, it is a appearance issue. The 4 door wranglers, just look better with 35’s. Particularly if they are lifted. Plus you have a off road advantages with added ground clearance, and more sidewall.
But with 35’s, most have to re-gear, and it will impact negatively somewhat your braking, and fuel economy.
yeah it would be for appearance too, although 33's with a little offset wheels and no lift look great too.
 

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yeah it would be for appearance too, although 33's with a little offset wheels and no lift look great too.
I disagree with the offset and 33s. Looks ghetto, too fast too furious kind of thing.

Anyway. Youll be fine with 35s. It is just one of those things in theory nobody is right. You are more likely to break something with the dana30 than with the dana44. But how far you need to go to break something is the question. And id say that is pretty darn far for most people.

Ive only seen one sport JL to break something on the trail. This person had a locked dana30 on 40s... They were gonna get new axles and didnt care. He was hopping like crazy I am pretty sure a d44 would have broken too. He busted the ring gear.

There have been reports here of people braking their axles. Both d30s and d44s. Ring gear and FAD seem to be the most common. Then also bent axles people dont even know until they pull them out.

Point being. In theory a lot of people will tell you youre gonna break something. In practice, the data shows it is highly unlikely.

Get your 35s and enjoy life.
 
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ejewels

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on another ran
I disagree with the offset and 33s. Looks ghetto, too fast too furious kind of thing.

Anyway. Youll be fine with 35s. It is just one of those things in theory nobody is right. You are more likely to break something with the dana30 than with the dana44. But how far you need to go to break something is the question. And id say that is pretty darn far for most people.

Ive only seen one sport JL to break something on the trail. This person had a locked dana30 on 40s... They were gonna get new axles and didnt care. He was hopping like crazy I am pretty sure a d44 would have broken too. He busted the ring gear.

There have been reports here of people braking their axles. Both d30s and d44s. Ring gear and FAD seem to be the most common. Then also bent axles people dont even know until they pull them out.

Point being. In theory a lot of people will tell you youre gonna break something. In practice, the data shows it is highly unlikely.

Get your 35s and enjoy life.
thanks man. If people are wheeling 40's on dana 30s that says a lot lol. And when I said the offset thing, I was referring more to being pretty much inline with the fenders, or maybe a half inch outside. Definitely didn't mean the super wide ghetto stance lol.
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