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What will you be doing differently from the maintenance schedule?

DanW

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dan is there a mobil 1 twin filter that exists to pair with the AP or EP mobil oil for our pentastar?
Yes, it is the M1C-456A. It is constructed just like the Fram Ultra-Guard, but does not filter quite as well. It filters 99% at 30 microns. The Fram filters at 99% at 20 microns. Both are rated for up to 20,000 miles, so while it doesn't filter quite as well, it is still outstanding. It does cost a little more than the Fram. (About $15 vs. about $11).

If it is your choice, run it with high confidence that you can leave it in there a long time. It is a great match for M1 EP or AP oils.
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DanW

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Hey is there anything else on the Jeep that needs to be lubricated or greased or serviced that isn't mentioned in the manual?

I'm thinking about U-joints and CV-joints, or are these all sealed and unserviceable these days? Do you need to do anything to the brakes?

Is there anything else to do that I might not know about?
I don't think there are any user-serviceable grease fittings on the JL, anywhere. If you ever take it to your dealer, you could ask them. There were none on my JK until I replaced the ball joints with greasable units.
 

BoisetheCat

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Yes, it is the M1C-456A. It is constructed just like the Fram Ultra-Guard, but does not filter quite as well. It filters 99% at 30 microns. The Fram filters at 99% at 20 microns. Both are rated for up to 20,000 miles, so while it doesn't filter quite as well, it is still outstanding. It does cost a little more than the Fram. (About $15 vs. about $11).

If it is your choice, run it with high confidence that you can leave it in there a long time. It is a great match for M1 EP or AP oils.
you the man ! i feel like it'd be discouraged to change my oil at 5k and not change the filter till like 10k? they should be changed at the same time right?
 

DanW

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you the man ! i feel like it'd be discouraged to change my oil at 5k and not change the filter till like 10k? they should be changed at the same time right?
You don't have to change them together. If you leave the filter in there, it will retain a small amount of oil, but I don't think that's a huge deal. On my JK, I'm leaving the Fram filters on for 15,000 to 18,000 miles, or every 3rd oil change. I'm running Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 in that old 3.8. I've no doubt that engine will get past 300,000 miles. It might go way past that. It runs like brand new at 122k.
 

The Great Grape Ape

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Could you help me understand the whole seal and gasket seating with conventional oil and why synthetic won't work?
Yeah, I'm wondering if that "use conventional at first" might just be an old wive's tale, but I don't know for certain.
It’s more of an ‘old school’ issue, and as DanW mentions, likely not as relevant anymore. More than likely everything is updated for synthetic right from the plant, whether it’s new type of materials or else putting additives to help accomplish the same task. I like to think it’s the former rather than the later, as the later would mean keeping the original blend in the engine longer to assist with the break-in. I could see myself going to 1,500 KMs, / 1,000 miles if that were the case, but I would still prefer a flush at about half that distance.

The other aspect is that likely there isn’t as much mfr debris now as there used to be anyways, so a longer first oil change might not be as big an issue. However, I would await more info before changing my process dramatically. Will look for things like DanW’s oil test results and others experiences to help guide my actions in the fall.
 

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whyjguy

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I'll do the same thing I did to my Ram 2500 when I got it last year. at 1000 miles I'll drain and switch to Amsoil with the Wix filter.

after that, i will follow the OLM until the warranty runs out using Amsoil OE grade oil. That should run me about $40 a change.


once that's done I will probably switch to the Signature Series which is good for 1 year or 25k miles. The only downfall is Amsoil doesn't make a filter for the 3.6, I will have to change the Wix filter a little more often.
 

offcamber

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I do a 12,500 mile interval oil change. Always worked great for me. I just buy the autozone brand oil.
 

TIDALWAVE

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How difficult (expensive) is it to reset the tire pressure monitors when you rotate tires? I usually rotate my other vehicles' tires every 5K miles.
The Chevy Silverado is absolutely easy to reset...built in. My Mustang uses a $25 hand-held transceiver to reset.
 

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How difficult (expensive) is it to reset the tire pressure monitors when you rotate tires? I usually rotate my other vehicles' tires every 5K miles.
The Jl/JLU does it on it's own ...

So, How does the JL/JLU know which tire/rim/wheel is where .....

Well, there are 3 sensors on the chassis that monitor the 4 TPMS Sensors found on the 4 tire (rim) positions.

Info from the 3 chassis sensors is transmitted to the Wireless Control Module. There is no need for a 4th chassis sensor as the computer uses the process of elimination to determine the fourth tire location.

Yes, your JLU/JL knows exactly which rim is where, within seconds of a tire rotation for example.

There is a TPMS sensor in the factory mounted spare but it is not read by a chassis sensor/ considered by the computer until it is placed in one of the 4 tire positions.

.
 

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I change my own oil and I don't think I can bring myself to put 0W-20 in my new JL. I will probably run 5W-20 or 5W-30. What do you guys think?
I’m running 5w30 in the spring, summer, fall and will switch to 5w20 in the winter
 

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I’m running 5w30 in the spring, summer, fall and will switch to 5w20 in the winter
I've got over 9K on the Jeep now in just over five months and I'm starting to kick this idea around. The dealer said I could easily run 5w20 here in NC especially for the summer.
I see you are in Michigan and kind of shocked to see you jump all the way to 5w30 for three seasons. What are your thoughts behind that?
I know they are running this ridiculously thin stuff to meet mileage standards but at some point the engine tolerances need to come into play as well where going too thick is going to hurt.
 

mgroeger

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I do a 12,500 mile interval oil change. Always worked great for me. I just buy the autozone brand oil.
WOW! I wouldn't even do this if I had a total beater car let alone a $46K Jeep, even using synthetic.
Do you plan on keeping your Jeep well beyond the 100k mile mark? I'm just curious. Most people are in the 4k-7k pocket using full synthetic. I was shocked that my dealer was doing 5k intervals since most usually do the 10k with full synthetic. I'm doing mine every 4k... three times over for one of yours :)
 

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I've got over 9K on the Jeep now in just over five months and I'm starting to kick this idea around. The dealer said I could easily run 5w20 here in NC especially for the summer.
I see you are in Michigan and kind of shocked to see you jump all the way to 5w30 for three seasons. What are your thoughts behind that?
I know they are running this ridiculously thin stuff to meet mileage standards but at some point the engine tolerances need to come into play as well where going too thick is going to hurt.
5w30 is really not that much thicker than a 20w. I don't see how it could cause a problem.
 

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Call me crazy as a shit house RAT but I've always changed my oil at 3000 miles. Even in my diesel pickups. In these smaller higher revving engines with the amount of heat they a produce it's just cheep insurance.
 

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Call me crazy as a shit house RAT but I've always changed my oil at 3000 miles. Even in my diesel pickups. In these smaller higher revving engines with the amount of heat they a produce it's just cheep insurance.
$hit house rat hear... I second, third and fourth that. I mean for $35 from Wally world, it's cheap insurance. I am going 4k since I'm using full synthetic, that's a big step for me... LOL.
What weight are you using?
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