Frezski
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Allan
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2019
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 358
- Reaction score
- 1,032
- Location
- Central Coast, California
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 JLUR, 2013 F250, 2016 Accord, 2016 Yami R1M
- Occupation
- Slave to the Trade
- Vehicle Showcase
- 1
I wouldn't be able to answer that for you but maybe @gsbrockman would be able to chime in. I am pretty new to trailer ownership but learned ALOT over the past 8 months of having one. I never payed too much attention but after the fact noticing that car hauler specific trailers have the axles slightly more forward on the deck. Not sure how that translates to anything. I was told by one dealer that an 18' would pull better than a 20' not sure if that is true? Maybe the length and tow handling characteristics? I still was able to put 40' tires on the deck in front of the jeep at with an 18' deck, it was tight for sure.Looking to get a trailer to haul my jeep as well. Recommendations from friends and working out my capacities and weight limits seems to be pointing me towards a 20' deck with 14K GVWR.
I looked at a couple bigger brands, but I'll also be looking locally this week.
I haven't dialed in on a price yet, but I am seeing prices range around 6-13K...
Do national brands/bigger brand name trailers run more expensive?
*I purchased a "house brand" aka dealer slapped his logo over the Delco name but still was 2-3k cheaper, than the same exact Delco trailer I compared it to in his lot.
I would try and compare the frame sizes of what you're going after. I've noticed examples of 5" to 6" frames. Some may not even run the total distance of the deck on the lesser capacities.
I would gather that some national brands carry the "premium name, premium price" due to reputation. I noticed PJ often carries a premium tag, but reading on different forums and talking to a few dealers that there was potential quality control issues with them and others stopped selling their equipment. If I remember right the difference between their B5 and B6 framed car haulers. Ive seen some trick DIamond C haulers but have no experience and their GTF at the time didn't didn't have a drive over fender option.
*Final thing to add which I learned the hard way... Most of the time these trailers are not shipped complete from manufacturer to dealer. This may translate to the dealer mass ordering wheels and tires. Check the DOT stamp on the trailer tires for manufacturing dates. Most trailer tires if not all are made abroad. So which ever trailer you end up buying make sure it's the proper load rating and age appropriate. My first main haul from CA to TX I made it out of CA but within an hour outside the CA border about 100 miles from Phoenix I suffered tire failure. They didn't blow out but started to separate. I picked up bad vibration and noticed in the mirrors the tires bouncing, all of them. Come to find out after limping it off the highway to the first exit that my tires were properly inflated, all showed 80psi, and I never exceeded the speed rating. Once I left Ca I set the cruise to 70. I got lucky there was this shanty 24hr service center that exit. They got me handled. It turned out that the dealer put the manufacturing date stamp all in board so I couldn't see it, (yes I should have looked when I took them off to properly lube the hubs prior to leaving). My fault of assuming. Hard lesson learned that could have been devastating if they did blow out or was oblivious to how my truck felt when it started. All 5 tires had manufacturing dates of 2015. So 7 year old tires on a 2022 trailer. About the only proper thing the dealer put on was the "E" load range, which we ended up throwing on was a "F" and 12 ply rating which is all they had. Worked for me. They said that when I am due to changing them again consider "G" load rating to add a little more security down the road.
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