What percent below invoice should I expect to pay for a 2018

[JLFlyGirl]

Any great deals in Michigan? And what percent below invoice should I expect to pay for 2018 JLUR?

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[EZMFE]

I don't know if "expect to pay" would be the right term. It's more like going in there "knowing" what you are going to pay... if that makes any sense.

You should be shooting for roughly 6% off of invoice or something around 11.99% off of MSRP. Many are buying at 5% off invoice so 6% is where you may want to start. You might be able to do even better than that so start where you want but don't allow yourself to go below that 5% off invoice. You might be surprise when they take your deal on the first offer so if too low you have now left money on the table.

You need to stick to a walking price. Walk out of the dealer if they will not go below the % you want. Why waste your time even talking to them if they are not willing to sell the vehicle for what so many other Jeep dealers have and will. They need to sell these things more than you need to buy them... that is the attitude you need to have. You are doing them a favor for buying it from them.

Do the math before ever going to the dealer so you can refer back to it when needing to reassure yourself you are getting the deal you want. If you are trading a vehicle in, make sure you know if the entire trade in value is removed from the price of the vehicle before determining the taxable amount. This can save you quite a bit and rest assured the dealer already knows about it.

Example:

$49999.00 Vehicle Subtotal
-$34500.00 Trade in Allowance < NOT BALANCE OWED / TOTAL TRADE IN VALUE
----------
$15499.00 NET TAXABLE AMOUNT​

There are only a few states that don't allow the tax to be done this way and Michigan is one of them

Keep you eyes on the after price agreement paperwork. Do not allow them to add anything but taxes, license, and a $200 doc fee. Cross out anything else on the numbers paperwork they put in front of you. Even if the freak out and stomp back to their finance manager... even if they say their finance manager is going to get mad... even if they say they will not be able to feed their children.

Don't sign anything until those number are exactly what they should be with no additional garbage that wasn't originally agreed to (% off MSRP) plus taxes, license, and a doc fee.

Remember their will be another round of negotiations with the finance person on interest rates... they make money off of you when arranging your financing so it is best to know what you qualify for or that you are pre-qualified before going. This way you know what percentage rate you qualify for and what they will need to beat to get your business... If they want to make money off of arranging the financing... they are going to need to beat the rate you already have to make that money.

Finance will also want to talk extended warranties, accessories. Just say no to everything... everything. Get out while you can...

Double check your final numbers at this point before signing anything. Preparing the paperwork is another opportunity for them to slide a few hundred buck in their favor without you really noticing.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

There are a number of pricing threads. One even has a map of dealerships around the country and what confirmed pricing forum members have gotten and which salesperson. Around 6% below invoice with no/low fees is a good benchmark. If there’s not anywhere local that’ll play ball and you’re willing to travel a bit you can get the 6% or even slightly better below invoice.

Good luck.

 

[Jeeper Fever]

You said "2018", those are an old model, and all of them are now on the lot.
*Dealers want to get rid of these*

You could drive a hard bargain if you try.

Also, you are in Michigan, not Cali, so you can travel a bit to find a bargain. Check your state registration laws, know what is involved with registering a Jeep bought out of state. Cali, ofc, has annoying rules, every where else is better.

Good Luck!

 

[euan2020]

Question from overseas - moving to USA

Does a 2018 manufactured show up on records as 2018 or 2019 if bought new in 2019 ?

ie in UK would show as 2019 because this is when vehicle is 1st registered

 

[Carlton]

Question from overseas - moving to USA

Does a 2018 manufactured show up on records as 2018 or 2019 if bought new in 2019 ?

ie in UK would show as 2019 because this is when vehicle is 1st registered

It depends on what is on the window sticker/what the manufacturer labels it as.

2019 models start being built in 2018. Those will be labeled 2019s. 2018s that are still on the dealership lot in 2018 will be sold as 2018s.

 

[guarnibl]

Personally, I would not buy a 2018 at this point as the depreciation has kicked in, and you can get 13% off MSRP ordering new. That said, I think 20%+ off MSRP is the only way I'd get one.

 

[Robertrinaustin]

Personally, I would not buy a 2018 at this point as the depreciation has kicked in, and you can get 13% off MSRP ordering new. That said, I think 20%+ off MSRP is the only way I'd get one.

This isn't the case.
I looked at this a few months ago on JKs that were 3-4 years old and 2-3 years old. I used KBB to compare models that had the same mileage but were a year apart, a 2014 to a 2013 for example. The year didn't matter. The values were essentially the same. Same model, color and same options were the same trade-in value. For example, 2014 and 2015 UL Sport S are both $23.1. KBB gets their valuations from actual transactions so the numbers are what they are.

Not saying anyone should't get a 19' over an 18'. Just don`t do it because you think it will be worth more.

 

[guarnibl]

This isn't the case.
I looked at this a few months ago on JKs that were 3-4 years old and 2-3 years old. I used KBB to compare models that had the same mileage but were a year apart, a 2014 to a 2013 for example. The year didn't matter. The values were essentially the same. Same model, color and same options were the same trade-in value. For example, 2014 and 2015 UL Sport S are both $23.1. KBB gets their valuations from actual transactions so the numbers are what they are.

Not saying anyone should't get a 19' over an 18'. Just don`t do it because you think it will be worth more.

The difference in value from year to year is around 6% according to KBB holding all other data constant in my zip code and the delta shrinks as you get to the 5+ year marker. KBB is typically pretty close on mass production vehicles with plenty of transactions.

So I still think going with the ‘19 is smarter unless you can make up most of that difference. If you’re not trading within a couple of years like I do it won’t matter as you said they’re worth almost the same after five years. But for me if I get an ‘18 for the same price as a ‘19 and trade in two years I’m leaving $3-$4k on the table. So in my case I’d only buy an ‘18 if I can make up that difference.

 

[Robertrinaustin]

The difference in value from year to year is around 6% according to KBB holding all other data constant in my zip code and the delta shrinks as you get to the 5+ year marker. KBB is typically pretty close on mass production vehicles with plenty of transactions.

So I still think going with the ‘19 is smarter unless you can make up most of that difference. If you’re not trading within a couple of years like I do it won’t matter as you said they’re worth almost the same after five years. But for me if I get an ‘18 for the same price as a ‘19 and trade in two years I’m leaving $3-$4k on the table. So in my case I’d only buy an ‘18 if I can make up that difference.

I ran numbers on a 16' and 17' JKUS and the difference was about $500. Didn't see anything close to your numbers for my zip.

 

[NickTinVA]

In Northern Virginia - 7% under invoice w/o Tread Lightly - 8% with it.

 

[cram501]

In Northern Virginia - 7% under invoice w/o Tread Lightly - 8% with it.

I believe Koons has all their 2018's on sale for 8% under without Tread Lightly.

 

[guarnibl]

I ran numbers on a 16' and 17' JKUS and the difference was about $500. Didn't see anything close to your numbers for my zip.

Might be different on sports I guess or in your area. I only checked Rubis ( base equip ). I think the S holds the value quite a lot better than Rubi. I checked Scottsdale AZ. Made sense for me to get the Rubi as it had a lot on it that would have costed me more after market.

Either way it’s a good data point. Curious what you find with Rubi in your area. Mine was about a $1700 difference on base configuration from 2017 to 2016. I used 30,000 miles on both years both four doors. On a higher MSRP now that they creep so high I bet it’s more like $3000 for ‘18-‘19 after 24 months. I bet the Sport S stays closer to your delta.

Speaking of — is warranty based on sale date, production date or punch date by dealer ?

 

[NickTinVA]

I believe Koons has all their 2018's on sale for 8% under without Tread Lightly.

Good point - I was referring to 2019s. I think you're right, for 2018's still on the lot you can probably get closer to 10% as the weeks go on.

 

[Carlton]

The 2018 JL is now a classic first year model which will be sought after by collectors. You should pay MSRP plus an additional mark-up. My dealership had my JL marked up 8k but I got them down to MSRP plus 5k. You just have to be good at negotiating.

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