What else do I need? Rock Krawler 3.5 Adventure system

[6.5shooter]

Just ordered Rock Krawler 3.5” Adventure, which includes:

• (4) Triple rate coil springs
• (2) Front Adventure Series lower control arms
• (2) Front spring pads
• (1) Adjustable front track bar
• (2) Rear spring pads
• (2) Extended rear sway bar links
• (1) Bolt-on rear track bar relocation bracket
  
  I’ve also ordered Fox 2.0 IFP shocks front and rear for 3.5”-4” lift, front and rear bumpstops, front brake line extension brackets. I believe all I’m lacking is front sway bar links, which I haven’t decided what I want yet. Anything else I need for the lift?
  
  Planning to run 37x12.50 on a 17x8.5 or 17x9 wheel. 2021 JLUR is my daily, but will see about 6 offroad weekend trips a year. Thanks for any input.

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[Roky]

Just ordered Rock Krawler 3.5” Adventure, which includes:

• (4) Triple rate coil springs
• (2) Front Adventure Series lower control arms
• (2) Front spring pads
• (1) Adjustable front track bar
• (2) Rear spring pads
• (2) Extended rear sway bar links
• (1) Bolt-on rear track bar relocation bracket
  
  I’ve also ordered Fox 2.0 IFP shocks front and rear for 3.5”-4” lift, front and rear bumpstops, front brake line extension brackets. I believe all I’m lacking is front sway bar links, which I haven’t decided what I want yet. Anything else you guys think I need? Planning to run 37x12.50 on a 17x8.5 or 17x9 wheel. 2021 JLUR is my daily, but will see about 6 offroad weekend trips a year. Thanks for any input.

Hey man , if you’re going with the 3.5” lift and are going to be wheeling it , I’d recommend getting some rear adjustable control arms. When you lift your Jeep the axles get pulled towards the center a little, and with 37s it would be best if you can center the wheel in the well, plus help you dial in pinion angle so the rear springs aren’t as bowed.

Don’t get me wrong, you can slap this lift on as is and not have any problems, I’m just trying to help you dial it in to make it better. When guys ask me about a 3.5” lift, I always try to talk them into a kit with all 8 control arms. It just rides and wheels so much better because the factory arms are at such a steep angle that it makes for a little harsher ride, and you’ll likely wear out the oem bushings a little quicker. Just my .02.

 

[6.5shooter]

Roky,

Thank you for the suggestion. I had taken into consideration that the front LCA’s would correct caster, but hadn’t given any thought about rear pinion angle or the fact that the rear axle would move forward in the wheel well. I went ahead and ordered RK front and rear adjustable UCA’s and adjustable rear LCA’s to make it a more complete kit. Essentially changing it from the 3.5 Adventure kit to 3.5 Ultimate Adventure.

ETA: Love the build thread btw!

 

[Roky]

Roky,

Thank you for the suggestion. I had taken into consideration that the front LCA’s would correct caster, but hadn’t given any thought about rear pinion angle or the fact that the rear axle would move forward in the wheel well. I went ahead and ordered RK front and rear adjustable UCA’s and adjustable rear LCA’s to make it a more complete kit. Essentially changing it from the 3.5 Adventure kit to 3.5 Ultimate Adventure.

ETA: Love the build thread btw!

Thanks brother! Yeah…. The Ultimate was exactly what I had in mind, just didn’t know your budget.

 

[Headbarcode]

In my opinion, the next logical steps would be an adjustable rear track bar and stronger steering linkages to handle the increased leverage forces that come with 37's.

The rear track bar can be used with the relocation bracket. The bracket helps to raise the rear roll center back to where it was at factory height, which reduces tail wag and its associated head toss going over bumps. It also shifts the axle closer to being centered to the frame/body. The adjustable rear bar will allow you to fine tune the centering of the axle, while also being stronger to resist flexing.

 

[6.5shooter]

In my opinion, the next logical steps would be an adjustable rear track bar and stronger steering linkages to handle the increased leverage forces that come with 37's.

The rear track bar can be used with the relocation bracket. The bracket helps to raise the rear roll center back to where it was at factory height, which reduces tail wag and its associated head toss going over bumps. It also shifts the axle closer to being centered to the frame/body. The adjustable rear bar will allow you to fine tune the centering of the axle, while also being stronger to resist flexing.

Thank you for the suggestions. I went ahead and ordered Steersmarts drag link, tie rod, and stabilizer relocation brackets, as well as the RK rear track bar. I’ve always preached “A system is only as strong as it’s weakest link,” and “Buy once, cry once,” so I decided it wasn’t necessary for me to try to cut corners on this build.

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