What do you think will fail first in the JL driveline?

sarum87

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I just upgraded my front drive shaft when I installed my lift, and that got me wondering if I should upgrade my rear driveshaft? wondering which one takes more stress?

then I was wondering what the weak links in the Jeep driveline might be (welds, knuckles, shafts, etc...). Realize that this is a new JL model and they have made some improvements to the durability of the driveline, but wondering what people's experience here has been. Thanks!
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wv18jl

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Front axle disconnect maybe?

Be interested to hear from folks who broke.
 

LooselyHeldPlans

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Interested in this as well. Hopefully it's the ujoints... So it's something easily fixable on the trails. I like the idea if having a mechanical fuse.
 

Revolution_322

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Depends on a couple things:
I would say in this order:

U joint Axle
U joint diff
Axle shaft
faD housing
Diff ring gear (D35)
 

wibornz

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Well, I have twisted a rear axle shaft.
 

rustyshakelford

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There’s the thought that’s the driveshaft (1310 for example) will act like a fuse in the system. Unfortunately that is really the case as other parts will typically get damage too as Sean is saying.

I think the most common part that receives damage while wheeling is the rear axle shafts. They are under tremendous load when on an incline and tire spin is a hard thing to handle. After that, it’s been front axle shafts. I don’t think the one piece RCVs are worth the negatives either, I like the two piece and retain the FAD.

brett
 

D60

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I've never really bought into the concept of a "fuse", it just doesn't make sense here to me. Electrical fuses are generally to prevent fire, and certainly shear pins are nice in machinery like a lathe, but I don't like the idea of intentionally building in a weak point in my driveline.

And yeah, u-joints aren't great fuses 'cause the odds of relatively expensive collateral damage are high -- almost always a yoke gets fragged or knuckles get knocked off ball joints.

Warn tried marketing the hub fuses which I never trusted but that was back in the days of those weird dial things at the front wheels you could turn....who knows what those were....I think the dials were just for decoration or something

Anyway, I'd say wheel joints are the greatest risk solely 'cause they get weaker at full lock. You can fit 1410's in there if you're ok with no FAD
 

SPR Pumpkin Rubi

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There’s the thought that’s the driveshaft (1310 for example) will act like a fuse in the system. Unfortunately that is really the case as other parts will typically get damage too as Sean is saying.

I think the most common part that receives damage while wheeling is the rear axle shafts. They are under tremendous load when on an incline and tire spin is a hard thing to handle. After that, it’s been front axle shafts. I don’t think the one piece RCVs are worth the negatives either, I like the two piece and retain the FAD.

brett
Whats the negative with RCV 1 piece?
 

overcrawler

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Unless your experience is atypical, 1/2 MPG loss is essentially nothing and IMO, worth every bit of strength you'd gain with the one piece.
I did not notice a big difference but in handing and drive offroad in 4WD was night and day.
 

rustyshakelford

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Whats the negative with RCV 1 piece?
the driveshaft is always turning. If you’re running aggressive or higher caster especially theres a strong possibility you’ll get vibration. If you break a two piece shaft, the probability of other damage is very high. The strength difference is relatively minor and unnecessary. I’m all about simplifying complicated systems or removing fail points and the only real way to do that with a m210 is replacing it with an axle that doesn’t have FAD. If that’s not an option upgrading the shafts to two piece works great

brett
 

Jelllo

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I had a front CV boot leak out all it's grease after 1 year and they replaced the axle shaft. Usually CV boots are good for ~10 years so maybe I'm just unlucky.
 
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