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What do you guys think of these 9” Kiwi Master LED headlights

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Arterius2

Arterius2

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Curious if anyone has tried the 9” halo by the same MFG? I can’t seem to find anyone that has taken a stab at them yet.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-9-Inc...127411&hash=item3b2cc041f2:g:zV0AAOSwIq9cvpXF
On amazon.com there were several reviews, not all of them positive by the way, saying that the round halo version is getting flashed by incoming cars. Now, I don't know what is causing this as the cross version we have is aimed fairly low and has nice cut off, the only difference I can see is that high/low beam bulb locations have been swapped...
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lightsout

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Ok I have been an opponent of the high priced LED headlamps, most are priced way over what they should be. I own a LED lighting company and design high end LED commercial sports lighting, here is my input. So many of the mainstream aftermarket LED lights are not a good value, Quake for example only a 1 year warranty (failures after 1 year would be expensive), LED headlamps should be 3-5 years minimum. Which brings me to these mentioned in this thread. These $199 headlamps claim a 5 year warranty I would say assuming you can actually claim the warranty that these are likely a good alternative for the $$$. The main issue for me though is 6500K that is extremely Blue and will likely have poor color rendering. The main issue you will find with the lower cost headlamps is not so much the LED components it is the fixture bodies, leaning and poor heatsinking.

If these were 6000K or lower I would be a buyer. main thing is find out how the warranty works... The only visual observation would be the Heat fins on the back are very sparse which is more problematic if you live in a warm southern environment.

The other issue with many of these if one fails you cannot buy just one...

The aftermarket seems to be gradually getting better though, these seem to be the better values out there again assuming warranty is viable
 
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Ok I have been an opponent of the high priced LED headlamps, most are priced way over what they should be. I own a LED lighting company and design high end LED commercial sports lighting, here is my input. So many of the mainstream aftermarket LED lights are not a good value, Quake for example only a 1 year warranty (failures after 1 year would be expensive), LED headlamps should be 3-5 years minimum. Which brings me to these mentioned in this thread. These $199 headlamps claim a 5 year warranty I would say assuming you can actually claim the warranty that these are likely a good alternative for the $$$. The main issue for me though is 6500K that is extremely Blue and will likely have poor color rendering. The main issue you will find with the lower cost headlamps is not so much the LED components it is the fixture bodies, leaning and poor heatsinking.

If these were 6000K or lower I would be a buyer. main thing is find out how the warranty works... The only visual observation would be the Heat fins on the back are very sparse which is more problematic if you live in a warm southern environment.

The other issue with many of these if one fails you cannot buy just one...

The aftermarket seems to be gradually getting better though, these seem to be the better values out there again assuming warranty is viable
Agree with other points you mentioned but these are definitely not blue, they seem to be the same color temperature as the stock mopar fog lights. Not sure if you would call that blue. But I run them at the same time and can't really tell any difference visually.
 

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Agree with other points you mentioned but these are definitely not blue, they seem to be the same color temperature as the stock mopar fog lights. Not sure if you would call that blue. But I run them at the same time and can't really tell any difference visually.

The difference between 6000 and 6500 both are blue (ish) yes the difference is slight, 5000 is ideal (white) but those are expensive. Blue is a natural color of LED in the early years all the high performance LED's were 6000+. 5000K chips cost more have generally have lower performance (lumens per watt) whereas the 6000K + are generally very proven chips whereas uses less watts per lumen thus operated cooler. So historically 6000K in the past were slightly more reliable. There is an upside
 

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So far so good, absolutely love these headlights, they look awesome in person and most importantly they aim low from the factory, no adjustments needed, sharp cut off! I’m going to paint the grille insets as well in one go, writing up a detailed review, expect something soon!

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I just bought the halo version and will be installing tomorrow. Curious about the drl red wire you hooked up directly to aux 4 with no fuses in between? Also there was a write up in the main homepage on how to wire drl recently on a sport..can you wire like that from fuse box having a jumper wire too?
 

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I just bought the halo version and will be installing tomorrow. Curious about the drl red wire you hooked up directly to aux 4 with no fuses in between? Also there was a write up in the main homepage on how to wire drl recently on a sport..can you wire like that from fuse box having a jumper wire too?
your factory aux switches are already fused, so you don't have to worry about it. Yep, you can also wire it to your DRL on your fenders or to your fuse box.
 

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I just bought the halo version and will be installing tomorrow. Curious about the drl red wire you hooked up directly to aux 4 with no fuses in between? Also there was a write up in the main homepage on how to wire drl recently on a sport..can you wire like that from fuse box having a jumper wire too?
Did you install the Halo version yet? Can you post pictures if so? I am interested, but want to confirm that the halo actually fills the circular cutout portion of the grill. Anyone else have these 9” light installed with the round halo? That’s the only thing holding me back from the pair you all have been posting about, the cross halo is not as pleasant to my eye.
 

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Did you install the Halo version yet? Can you post pictures if so? I am interested, but want to confirm that the halo actually fills the circular cutout portion of the grill. Anyone else have these 9” light installed with the round halo? That’s the only thing holding me back from the pair you all have been posting about, the cross halo is not as pleasant to my eye.

Here is a thread of someone who has.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/9in-true-led-aftermarket-halo-style-headlights.28933/
 

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Installed mine yesterday. Wired the red wire up to my fender lights....used the Tazer to add the DRL function. Probably going to wire the halos up to the aux switches instead. Easy install overall. I used the hardware provided. Haven't leveled them out yet. I'm on 35's with a 2" lift.

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I was looking for this thread the other day when I installed my lights (that I’ve had in a box for months) and couldn’t find it. In the end I just figured I’d wing it. Ended up wiring the halos to Aux 3 so I could leave the majority of my factory lights wiring untouched. Worked out great! I’m sure I could have found a better path to route the driver side wire over to the battery area, but as long as it stays free of hot surfaces and fans, I’m okay with it.

Now I’ve got to do something about those damn stock fog lights, now that they’re completely useless.

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Thoughts? I think they look pretty neat, thinking about giving them a try, been waiting for mopar led headlight kit’s availability for way too long.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.ca/ulk/itm/173825523603

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I fucking love these… I’m not sure how I found this post but I’m glad I did because I’ve not been able to find 9 inch LEDs anywhere… I just got the new gladiator and I’m wondering about a few things… How long have you had these lights installed and have you had any problems… Are these true plug and play or do you have to splice to get the daytime running lights? I have a sport S gladiator with no DLR just stick halogen Will these work ?
 

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So far so good, absolutely love these headlights, they look awesome in person and most importantly they aim low from the factory, no adjustments needed, sharp cut off! I’m going to paint the grille insets as well in one go, writing up a detailed review, expect something soon!

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I absolutely love these lights let me know if you’ve had any problems
 

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Review going here.
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Arrived in box, no instructions, first step was to weather-seal the connectors better using shrink wrap tape and crimp the DRL(red) cable to extension (white) cable provided. Connects directly into the original halogen plugs, except for the DRL cable.
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Remove front grille and detach stock halogen headlight assemblies. (held by 3 bolts each)
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Would like the ability to turn on-off my halo at will, so I joined both DRL extension cables together and crimped it into my Aux 4, feel free to splice it into your fender DRL or ignition if you wish.
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Will be temporarily hooking the DRL to aux until I swap out the halogen fender housing for LEDs later. Ignition/Latching/Last-State-Recall, works just fine and functions like halo DRL, can also turn it off whenever I want.
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You can adjust the headlights by adding washers behind the bracket.. plastic washers in photo. I first installed washer preemptively but found I actually didn't need them, they are aimed pretty low as is.
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Secure headlight assembly with the 3 bolts from stock housing.
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Halo+Low beam turned on:
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Halo+Low beam+High beam turned on (low beam will remain on during high beam), love this feature, won't sacrifice near-field illumination during high beam operations.
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With washers, the cut-off is a bit low, note my parking garage is on a slight incline downward.
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Took washers off, nice and sharp cut-off, super bright.
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Tada.. Everything back together and under the sun..
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Thank you for this awesome review
 
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Arterius2

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I fucking love these… I’m not sure how I found this post but I’m glad I did because I’ve not been able to find 9 inch LEDs anywhere… I just got the new gladiator and I’m wondering about a few things… How long have you had these lights installed and have you had any problems… Are these true plug and play or do you have to splice to get the daytime running lights? I have a sport S gladiator with no DLR just stick halogen Will these work ?
I might be the first person to install these on this forum (I think), have had them since (I'm guessing 3-4 month now), not a single issue so far. Have not been flashed either. Since you read my mini review, you've probably seen that I hooked them up to my Aux switch, so no splicing needed.
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