What do I need to know before putting a JL Rubicon Suspension on my JL Sport S.

zeebo56

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Do you know if the stock Rubi LCA's are longer than a stock Sport or the same?
I believe they are the same. The shocks and springs are different.

Well my phone had delayed showing the previous message.
 

RickyMo

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Got it done this weekend and I’m very happy with it. I got about an inch front and rear (no spacers, just the springs, shocks and longer Mopar lower control arms) and it drives great. A buddy helped me and it took about 7 hours total. We’re very methodical and had to break it up over two days due to other commitments. The hardest part was probably breaking the LCA bolts loose. We did overtorque everything and had to back and redo that part. We confused Nm with ft. lbs and didn’t figure it out until we started to torque the LCAs. These are the part numbers and I’m not sure if they came off a soft or hardtop Rubicon etc:

Springs

Front driver 68253659AD
Front passenger 68253660AD
Rear driver 68253590AA
Rear passenger 68253591AA

Shocks

Front P68330209AB
Rear P68330210AA

The before/after pics aren’t the best as the before pic is with 245s and after is with 285s. Also, Plasti-dip doesn’t hold up well to tire swaps. Thanks very much for the advice on this stuff guys, especially the LCA advice!

1612230845285.jpeg

1612230890120.jpeg
Your Jeep looks great! I know th
I believe they are the same. The shocks and springs are different.

Well my phone had delayed showing the previous message.
Thats what I was guessing...thanks!
 

Knel6

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Do you know if the stock Rubi LCA's are longer than a stock Sport or the same?
Stock Rubi LCAs are the same part number as sport trim levels. I got the set with Rubi takeoff suspension and they were identical.
 

RickyMo

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Stock Rubi LCAs are the same part number as sport trim levels. I got the set with Rubi takeoff suspension and they were identical.
Thanks for reply.
 

omnitonic

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7) after you put the new springs in, you’ll have push/pull either the axel or Jeep to line the trackbars back up (pushing on the tub of the Jeep or turning the steering wheel will accomplish this and it’s much easier to do with two people)
After spending a lot of time trying to get my head around what I'm about to do, I still have no idea what this means. Line back up how? Every trim level has the same fixed track bars, and these springs are staying within the spectrum of possibilities that the overall suspension design accommodates, so it seems like the track bars will just eventually do their thing with no intervention needed.

11) the alignment nubs on the top spring isolators will no longer be correct...you’ll have to trim it off
**EDIT** It appears that the spring isolators may be universal across the different springs so this may not be necessary. Compare your new and old springs (remember they are corner specific) and check to see if both ends of the springs line up in the same spot. If they line up...no trimming necessary.
I don't have a clue how to do an alignment, or what an alignment nub is. Line what up how why? The list here in this older post is basically the only place I've ever seen anyone mention this detail.

My only other caution flag is the LCA issue. Some guys had hideous problems, and some guys had no problems at all. Some guys swapped LCAs, some guys didn't.

The suspension height I will get is within the spectrum of possibilities they engineered into the design, so it seems like the standard LCAs will probably be fine. All of this is complicated by the fact that I am lifting something that is already heavier than stock. Maybe without the bolt-ons it would have messed up the geometry, but with the bolt-ons it will be back to stock. Maybe I need a spacer to compensate even more, maybe I don't.

I've got spacers and longer LCAs coming, and I'm hoping I can just figure it out when I start wrenching.
 

Dr. RGB

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After spending a lot of time trying to get my head around what I'm about to do, I still have no idea what this means. Line back up how? Every trim level has the same fixed track bars, and these springs are staying within the spectrum of possibilities that the overall suspension design accommodates, so it seems like the track bars will just eventually do their thing with no intervention needed.



I don't have a clue how to do an alignment, or what an alignment nub is. Line what up how why? The list here in this older post is basically the only place I've ever seen anyone mention this detail.

My only other caution flag is the LCA issue. Some guys had hideous problems, and some guys had no problems at all. Some guys swapped LCAs, some guys didn't.

The suspension height I will get is within the spectrum of possibilities they engineered into the design, so it seems like the standard LCAs will probably be fine. All of this is complicated by the fact that I am lifting something that is already heavier than stock. Maybe without the bolt-ons it would have messed up the geometry, but with the bolt-ons it will be back to stock. Maybe I need a spacer to compensate even more, maybe I don't.

I've got spacers and longer LCAs coming, and I'm hoping I can just figure it out when I start wrenching.
Check here: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/rubicon-suspension-on-2-door-sport.40700/

All of your questions should be answered.
 

TA1ton

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After spending a lot of time trying to get my head around what I'm about to do, I still have no idea what this means. Line back up how? Every trim level has the same fixed track bars, and these springs are staying within the spectrum of possibilities that the overall suspension design accommodates, so it seems like the track bars will just eventually do their thing with no intervention needed.



I don't have a clue how to do an alignment, or what an alignment nub is. Line what up how why? The list here in this older post is basically the only place I've ever seen anyone mention this detail.

My only other caution flag is the LCA issue. Some guys had hideous problems, and some guys had no problems at all. Some guys swapped LCAs, some guys didn't.

The suspension height I will get is within the spectrum of possibilities they engineered into the design, so it seems like the standard LCAs will probably be fine. All of this is complicated by the fact that I am lifting something that is already heavier than stock. Maybe without the bolt-ons it would have messed up the geometry, but with the bolt-ons it will be back to stock. Maybe I need a spacer to compensate even more, maybe I don't.

I've got spacers and longer LCAs coming, and I'm hoping I can just figure it out when I start wrenching.
You are correct...the track bars are the same across trim levels. But the track bar travels in an arc and the longer springs move the axel away from the frame vertically. So as your track bar travels down it’s arc, the bolt holes on the axel mount and track bar will now be slightly off...not too bad, but usually enough to not be able to get your bolt in. So you have to move the axel or frame to get them to line back up.

Your top spring isolators (the rubber pads on top of your springs...pic attached) have a little nub of rubber that sticks into a hole in the upper spring bucket to properly align the isolator so that pressure from the spring is evenly distributed to the bucket. If this isolator is misaligned, it can cause issues with the suspension such as spring bow. Some bow is acceptable but in a perfect world, there would be none. But as I said in my post, this may not be necessary and the ends of all the different springs may be in the same position relative to top and bottom.

Hopefully that answered your questions.

5C4D5D7E-0092-4E48-9BEB-0AD9F951C181.jpeg
 

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