What do I need to know before putting a JL Rubicon Suspension on my JL Sport S.

Avar928

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I *think* you'll like a 1/2" spacer on the front but hard to tell. For comparison I have 60/61 front, 91/92 rear and stock plastic bumper with tow package. It's about 3/4" rake (noticeable for sure). Your bigger front spring set with smaller rears would probably even that out but once you add in the bumper and it settles my guess is you'll lose another 1/2".
Thanks. Great info. I went ahead and ordered a Terraflex 1/2" front spacer set just to be safe.





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Kenny

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Anyone do the springs/shock swap without adding the 0.5" spacer and also install a steel bumper? Was it level or did the front sag? Getting a bit of a mix view here. I purchased 61/62 front springs and 90/91 rear. I'll add a winch in the future but don't necessarily plan on keeping it on all the time.
I have added front and rear steel bumpers to my sports s along with a Rbicon suspension - and have added nothing else - and I beat the crap out of it - no spacers
 

Avar928

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Just did the install tonight, took a good 6hrs as the new LCAs were a PITA to get torqued with the Jeep just on jack stands. Getting the leverage to put down 190 ft/lbs inside that wheel well takes a lot of beer, creative placements with a wrench and the use of a jack stand.

Loosen the shocks and the bottom sway bar end link ONLY (along with the brake line bracket, sensor connector, and breather hose for the front and just the brake line bracket for the rear) and you can drop the axle. Be careful dropping the rear axle as the parking brake lines (make sure the brake is off) will start to pull down from where they're routed. If you're not touching the LCAs on the front you'll have a way easier time.

The rear swap of shocks and springs took about 45mins from tires off to tires on, very very easy. They're very easy getting out and putting back in if you have two floor jacks to do each side independently.
 

jmcdtucson

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Just did the install tonight, took a good 6hrs as the new LCAs were a PITA to get torqued with the Jeep just on jack stands. Getting the leverage to put down 190 ft/lbs inside that wheel well takes a lot of beer, creative placements with a wrench and the use of a jack stand.

Loosen the shocks and the bottom sway bar end link ONLY (along with the brake line bracket, sensor connector, and breather hose for the front and just the brake line bracket for the rear) and you can drop the axle. Be careful dropping the rear axle as the parking brake lines (make sure the brake is off) will start to pull down from where they're routed. If you're not touching the LCAs on the front you'll have a way easier time.

The rear swap of shocks and springs took about 45mins from tires off to tires on, very very easy. They're very easy getting out and putting back in if you have two floor jacks to do each side independently.
I'm a total rookie and it took me 11 hours start to finish spread over 2 days. I did loosen and then retighten all control arms because of OCD and also replaced the front track bar while I was at it. I used a floor jack to torque those LCA bolts. What a pain those were.
 

Avar928

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I'm a total rookie and it took me 11 hours start to finish spread over 2 days. I did loosen and then retighten all control arms because of OCD and also replaced the front track bar while I was at it. I used a floor jack to torque those LCA bolts. What a pain those were.
We had a hard time removing the passenger side. Might have been the placement of the floor jacks and jack stands but the front axle was moving forward for some reason and that made loosening the first bolt very hard with the added pressure. Plus there was a ton of corrosion. Once we got one off the rest were easy but it was a pain. Then a trip to Home Depot for some sockets for the impact. Aside that the rest of the install wasn't hard.
 

Avar928

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Extra note:

My steering wheel is a bit off, slight bias to the left in order to keep her straight. Drag link needs to be adjusted to correct. She gave me the "Service Electronic Stability Control" message which is either a fuse being blown or not seated properly, or from what I read here in the forums, when your steering is slightly off from straight. Fixing either (replace or re-seat the fuses and or fix drag link) will resolve.
 

claymcs18

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also strongly suggest terraflex 0.5" spacer lift along with the suspension swap accompanied by Mopar's longer LCA (68322798AA) from the 2" lift kit for a effective but very inexpensive lift.
You would need (2) 68322798AA - Mopar's longer LCA, correct?
 

jmcdtucson

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I just want to clarify, the longer Mopar LCA, part number 68322798AA is different from what actually comes with the Rubicon suspension? I have a 2021 JLUS and just purchased the entire Rubicon suspension from someone. I’d also like to clarify, is it necessary to swap anything else besides the shocks, springs and LCAs? Thanks.
 

jmcdtucson

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I just want to clarify, the longer Mopar LCA, part number 68322798AA is different from what actually comes with the Rubicon suspension? I have a 2021 JLUS and just purchased the entire Rubicon suspension from someone. I’d also like to clarify, is it necessary to swap anything else besides the shocks, springs and LCAs? Thanks.
Yes, it's a different part number than stock Rubicon suspension (it's 1/4" longer).
No, nothing needed beyond shocks, springs, and LCAs.
 

blnewt

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Great, thanks!
Yes, it's a different part number than stock Rubicon suspension (it's 1/4" longer).
No, nothing needed beyond shocks, springs, and LCAs.
I’m sorry, one more question (I hope). Are the longer LCAs needed only if you add a spacer to this? If I were to swap out the Sport shocks, springs and LCAs with the Rubicon shocks, springs and LCAs with no spacer, do I still need the longer ones?
 

jmcdtucson

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I’m sorry, one more question (I hope). Are the longer LCAs needed only if you add a spacer to this? If I were to swap out the Sport shocks, springs and LCAs with the Rubicon shocks, springs and LCAs with no spacer, do I still need the longer ones?
It's necessary if you want to keep caster similar to your stock Sport. Otherwise you're going to have the low caster that stock Rubicons have. For some people it seems to work out fine but most seem to like the more solid steering feel you get with more caster. As a bonus the longer LCAs are also way beefier.
You're supposed to loosen and retorque those bolts anyway when doing a lift so you might as well replace the LCA once you've gone through all that trouble. If it was me to do it over again, I'd probably put on adjustable LCA to get even more caster
 

Knel6

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Safe to say you will get around a 1.5 lift. I’m really happy with it and 33s on my jlus
@Mudawg10 do you have any before and after pics of your suspension swap? I have the same setup and debating on pulling the trigger on the swap. What spring #'s did you put on?
 

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