What did you do TO your Jeep JL today?

LailaiJl

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Thanks for the insight. I wonder if your case is isolated? I wonder why for you/some Rubicons, the full height is not achieved? Hmmmm.

I have a Sahara, so maybe it would be a full height for me?

Also - if not Dynatrac, then which kit would you recommend for a mild 2” lift, with hardly/if at all, off-road use?



I love that ARB bumper. One of the few non-OEM that I’ve seen that I like. What’s the material of it? I love my stock fog lights though, but judging from your pic, it’s a close match to the stock LED’s?



Good luck with the sale, and thanks for the explanation. If I could do it all over again, it too would be a Rubicon from the get go.

Yeah that's what we should have done for sure!
 

joshg

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Hard top does fit over the Spiderweb Shade. I installed mine and it just stays on all the time. When the hardtop is on it blocks out the white and looks like you have a headliner. I can't say about the soft top because I don't have one. You have to order the one for a hard top. There will be a cutout for the freedom panels to lock in place. If you only have a soft top you can get one without the cutout.
But am I right in assuming that if you keep the Spiderweb Shade you are eliminating the ability to use a Top Lift Pro? Doesn't the TLP need to push up on the hard top from the inside, and would get blocked from doing that by the shade?
 

robaw

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But am I right in assuming that if you keep the Spiderweb Shade you are eliminating the ability to use a Top Lift Pro? Doesn't the TLP need to push up on the hard top from the inside, and would get blocked from doing that by the shade?
No - the TLP pushes on the hardtop just inside the back (behind the sport bar). Should be fine.
 

Digger70

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Wednesday I installed the Cavfab tailgate plate and today I installed the Oedro rear bumper which I got discounted with a coupon from Amazon a few weeks ago. The stock rear bumper was such a pain to remove. I watched some videos which made it look so easy but getting a socket or wrench to the top nuts or bolts was tough. Then after getting the top bolts off, the bumper wouldn't come off. Since it was now able to be moved out a couple of inches the top bolts were easier to get to and after loosening one of them the bumper came off. Unfortunately the Cavfab $55 extra plug n play harness is for the license plate plug that is located within the rear bumper and not the wide plug that is under the driver's side tail light. The wire that goes into the wide plug accidentally got pulled out when taking off the rear bumper. So now I have to get someone to splice the wire for the plate light as well as connect the wires for the led lights in the rear bumper. (And yes I know the built-in hitch is not rated for towing. I had a similar Barricade bumper on my '14 JK.) The Cavfab was pretty simple to install. I did not have the right size torx bit to remove the tiny screws from the stock rear camera holder so I went to my favorite local mechanic who let me borrow one as well as a flex-shaft wrench to help remove some of the hard to access bolts on the rear stock bumper. Also on the Cavfab when you mount the camera to the mounting plate that then bolts to the tailgate plate, the holes didn't quite line up and one had to be drilled out.

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Kheroux

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TRZ

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Based on another member’s post, I added vinyl to the top portion of the rear doors to try to prevent dog nail scratches. I chose carbon fiber look because of all the vinyl in my 3M sample book, the carbon fiber resisted scratches the best.

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SilverBackJL

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Took the doors off today and realized that last time I put the doors back on (about a month ago) I never put the bolts back into the bottom of the hinges. How bad is this for the doors?

15623744296217694171415331693105.jpg
 

Chaweb

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Thanks for the insight. I wonder if your case is isolated? I wonder why for you/some Rubicons, the full height is not achieved? Hmmmm.

I have a Sahara, so maybe it would be a full height for me?

Also - if not Dynatrac, then which kit would you recommend for a mild 2” lift, with hardly/if at all, off-road use?



I love that ARB bumper. One of the few non-OEM that I’ve seen that I like. What’s the material of it? I love my stock fog lights though, but judging from your pic, it’s a close match to the stock LED’s?



Good luck with the sale, and thanks for the explanation. If I could do it all over again, it too would be a Rubicon from the get go.
The bumper is metal of some sort. The lights are my stock LEDs from the original bumper which transfer over perfectly. I love the classic look... Subtle toughness!
 

ResqFE

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I installed a DV8 stubby rear bumper, Rusty’s fascia covers, and relocated the license plate and light wiring.

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Any updates on the durability of Rusty's fascia covers? Thinking about exact same set up but I do rock crawl and want sufficient protection if I come down on a corner. Thanks
 

oceanblue2019

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Took the doors off today and realized that last time I put the doors back on (about a month ago) I never put the bolts back into the bottom of the hinges. How bad is this for the doors?

15623744296217694171415331693105.jpg
No issue, many of us remove the bolts when we buy a jeep and they never get put back on.....
 

pichenet

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Took the doors off today and realized that last time I put the doors back on (about a month ago) I never put the bolts back into the bottom of the hinges. How bad is this for the doors?

15623744296217694171415331693105.jpg
I hope it's not too bad. I had them off all winter. I had the doors off a couple of weeks ago and put doors and bolts back on without issue.
 

dsgrey

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Debugged a non-working blinker problem at 3200 miles. I added an aftermarket hitch and lights around 2500 miles ago. It's plug-n-play but yesterday my right blinker on the dash was blinking fast. Seems the rear right blinker no longer worked but everything else in the housing did. It's a faulty trailer harness but here is where it got interesting.

I could unplug the trailer harness and just use the OEM harness but the blinker still would not work. Tested the leads at the harness and did not see the correct voltage fluctuation. Racked my brain for awhile and kept inspecting/switching both harnesses. Then I started the Jeep, the rear lights flashed a couple of times and everything worked fine using the OEM harness. Switched to trailer harness and it would not work. Switched back to OEM and it would only begin to work AFTER starting my engine. Even in ACC position it made no difference after switching back to the OEM harness - I had to at least start the engine one time and it would work.
 
 
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