What did you do TO your Jeep JL today?

[SCOverlander]

Added front diff skid and cover.

 

[SRQgunner]

Installed the Mopar cowl light brackets and the Mopar 5" off-road lights.

 

[Hearhear]

Thor got his first wax job today!! Looks nice and super shiny. Good for 6 months! He got his very first vacuuming too.

Tomorrow I’ll work on tires and seats.

 

[TheBirdie72]

Thor got his first wax job today!! Looks nice and super shiny. Good for 6 months! He got his very first vacuuming too.

Tomorrow I’ll work on tires and seats.

I wish I could shine my new Jeep up more like yours right now, but with all the salt and sand on the road right now up in New England, I’m just gonna settle for the occasional touchfree car wash until Spring. Then give it a good cleanup before hardtop/doors removal.

 

[XJfanatic]

Its defintely needed. Makes the front end stiffer for sure.

Not so sure on that one. Maybe a placebo. It will keep larger rocks and crests of hills from smashing the plastic trans pan some.

If it really did you would see the real engine/trans skids deleting it. Also I have never seen a structural cross member held in with two bolts.

 

[TroyBoy]

Added Rockhard front LCA skids. Had to modify the passenger side to fit with the metalcloak FAD skid.

 

[Ezun]

I installed a Clayton Off-Road 2.5" Overland+ lift and RK no limits sway bar links on the 392XR. Did the install by myself in the garage. It took me 2 full days plus a couple of hours last night to get it finished so don't feel bad if you don't get it done in the 8hrs others claim! I ordered SAE Tekton crowfoots in the jam nut sizes listed in the Clayton instructions and both were too small. I wonder if the metric equivalents would work or if the Tektons are just smaller than advertised.

I made steady progress on the install until I got to the passenger side rear spring. The dual-rate Clayton was long enough that when I got the axle drooped enough height-wise the spring was contacting and attempting to bend around the gas tank. An externally mounted spring compressor would have made the job easy but where is the fun in that!? Lots of failed methods and even one install of the spring upsidedown made for a long Sunday afternoon. I finally triumphed and the driver side took less than 10min afterward.

I'm using the Clayton recommended lengths currently and I'm not going to bother measuring caster angles until the springs settle to their final height. I got the jam nuts as tight as I could with my 16" adjustable wrench but they are nowhere near as tight as I could have got them with the 250ft-lb torque wrench which is significantly longer.

Today I played the "Is that a crosswind or does my draglink need further adjustment?" game and started on the compression clicker settings for on-road driving with the Fox 2.5DSCs.

My 392XR only had about 3" of up-travel from the factory and I installed this lift specifically to increase that up-travel. After one day of driving around the lift has added 2" of up-travel to my Jeep. If it stays above 1" of additional travel after spring settling I'll be happy.

I have a small drainage notch on my property that I can drive across that would harshly bottom the stock suspension and softly bottom the Fox 2.5DSCs at full high-speed compression clickers. There is also some secret double-track not too far from my house that serves as "off-road" testing without driving to the local OHVs. The 5" of up-travel that the lift has provided has transformed this Jeep when the pavement ends. "Did I break something?" bump stop hits are now marshmallow middle of the travel non-events. I now feel as though the suspension matches the personality of the engine. I'll save my full review until I get a couple of hundred miles on the highway and a few days off-road but I am very happy with my initial driving impressions.

Control arms, photos do no justice to the difference from stock.

Mid process. First time in my life I truly needed both bottle jacks and the floor jack simultaneously.

Pre-lift up-travel. The oil marks represent the full up-travel available after many bottom-out events at Hidden Falls Adventure Park with fellow forum members.

Post-lift shock measurement of the same shock. A solid 2" increase. Would love to end up around 1.5" over stock after settling.

Pre-lift side shot.

Post lift shots.

Fantastic! - I did the Clayton 2.5 on my 19 JLUR and a few months ago I picked up my 392. I also have a Clayton 2.5 lift sitting in the garage next to my 392. I‘ve been wondering if I need new shocks or not - your thoughts would be appreciated. I’ve done zero research on it, just haven’t had the time.

Thanks!

 

[Ezun]

For the door, I just followed what others have done here. I think there’s an opportunity to deaden the doors quite a bit with differing types/sizes of weatherstripping. My first attempt was too much, the door would hardly close and was bowed out. I just peaked it off and repositioned a few times till the door would shut. I think there’s some further optimisations I could make.

As for the roof, what works for me might not help most people as I have a different roof. Mines a camper top that replaces the hard top.

Would also like to see pics/info on this.

 

[geem03]

Received my tazer lite a few days ago .... gonna wait for warmer weather to install it... it's been freezing out plus we got hammered with 2 snow storms recently .....

Wouldn't want to break any clips when removing panels ...

 

[TimR]

Received my tazer lite a few days ago .... gonna wait for warmer weather to install it... it's been freezing out plus we got hammered with 2 snow storms recently .....

Wouldn't want to break any clips when removing panels ...

Just start up your Jeep and warm it up inside. No need to wait.

 

[calbake]

Booked an appointment with the dealership to look at the paint bubbling around the hinges

 

[dshark1]

Maximus-3 stinger bar, Baja Design LP6’s, and pixel decals bronze warn decal overlay installed. Oh, I also removed the bumper ends. Really happy with the way the front turned out.

The Baja”s look awesome! How did U connect the running lights for them? What did u tap into. I really don’t wanna use a dedicated aux switch just for the runners, hate to waste it. Lol

 

[BradyW]

Fantastic! - I did the Clayton 2.5 on my 19 JLUR and a few months ago I picked up my 392. I also have a Clayton 2.5 lift sitting in the garage next to my 392. I‘ve been wondering if I need new shocks or not - your thoughts would be appreciated. I’ve done zero research on it, just haven’t had the time.

Thanks!

There are two unique but overlapping issues in keeping the stock length shocks after lifting.

1. Reduction in available down travel at ride height. Down travel is an important part of ride comfort, especially as the terrain gets rougher. After the 2.5" Clayton lift my front shocks are ~23" eye-to-eye at ride height. My shocks are designed for 2-3" lifts and have an extended length of 26.5". This means my jeep has approximately 3.5" of down travel. The front stock shocks have an extended length of 24.75" and get into their top out dampening travel at around 24.375". This means you would have approximately 1.75" of down travel on the stock shocks after lifting. The Jeep may ride good enough with only 1.75" of down travel but you would have to determine that for yourself. You can always replace shocks separate from the lift if you don't like the way it rides.
2. Not as important as point 1 but with keeping the stock shocks you also miss out on the extra flex/articulation a lift typically provides. The Clayton control arm bushings can handle significantly more droop than my 2-3" lift shocks can provide so the extended shock length will determine your maximum droop when flexing out off-road. With stock shocks, your maximum flex will be the same as stock. Not a big deal if you only do light trail riding or stay to the pavement but if you are on the rocks the extra articulation is a nice benefit to lifting if you increase your shock length.

If you decide to increase your shock length there is a major choice to make. Stick with front shocks that have an extended length of around 26.5" or go full-hog and get shocks with an extended length near 30" like the MetalCloak RockSports. The 30" shocks will give you more suspension articulation but they come with additional complexity and cost to your setup because you will need to add a new front driveshaft, shock relocation brackets, and wheel spacers. Sticking with 26.5" length shocks you can continue to use your stock driveshaft, shock mounting locations, and wheels without issue. I personally chose the 26.5" option and have no regrets. I've attached the PNs and shock Lengths of different options below if you decide to replace your stocks.

392: Front 24.75" / 16.75" | Rear 27"/ 18"
Mopar Lift Fox: Front 26.25"/ 17.5" | Rear 28.5" / 19.25"

Fox 2.0 Monotube:

• 0-1.5 (Lift Height): 985-24-171, 985-24-172. (Part Numbers)
  • 25.920-16.3-9.620, 26.920-16.8-10.120 (Front, Rear)(Extended length-Compressed-length-Stroke)
• 2-3: 985-24-177, 985-24-178
  • 26.42-16.8-9.62, 29.62-18.5-11.12
• 3.5-4: 985-24-179, 985-24-180
  • 28.52-17.9-10.62, 30.620-19-11.62

Fox 2.0 Remote Resivoir:

• 2-3: 885-24-183, 985-24-184
  • 26.52-16.4-10.12, 29.020-17.4-11.620
• 3.5-4: 885-24-185, 985-24-186
  • 29.020-17.4-11.62, 30.520-18.4-12.12

Fox 2.5 DSC:

• 0-1.5: 883-26-049, 883-26-053
  • 25.500-15.83-9.67, 26.6-16.43-10.17
• 2-3: 883-26-050, 883-26-054
  • 26.510-16.340-10.17, 28.6-17.43-11.17
• 3.5-4: 883-26-051, 883-26-055
  • 28.51-17.34-11.17, 30.3-18.43-11.87

Rocksport Long Travel Shocks Front/Rear

• 30.0-17.7-12.3

6Pak Shocks

• 28.25-13.25-15.0

 

[ToolMan514]

Decided to upgrade the look of the front Mopar headliners... I like the result.

 

[Heimkehr]

Wouldn't want to break any clips when removing panels ...

I just did that yesterday, despite taking care during panel removal, when installing brighter LED reverse bulbs on Mrs. H's Honda (I did disclose the broken clip to her.)

She requested brighter bulbs after observing the dramatic increase in visibility that upgraded LED tail lights provided on my Jeep.