What did you do TO your Jeep JL today?

[jadewolf]

If you're handy with a tongue depressor, prep a wee bit of J-B KwikWeld. Use it to build up the depression in the panel. Have a hair dryer handy to speed up the initial set as needed. Let it cure overnight and sand to your preference before painting. It will harden to a very dark gray.

Yep, I think that's the route I'm going to go. I picked up some JB weld last night and should hopefully be able to get it all sorted out, then hit it with the touchup paint. Luckily it's not too big and no cracks spidering out or anything.

 

[Heimkehr]

I installed some light duty D-rings, in the event that I decide to use a cargo net as frequently as I did in previous vehicles. Hardware wasn't provided, so after determining that M8x1.25 was the correct thread size & pitch, off to Ace Hdwe I went for some stainless fasteners. The washers came from shed stock.

After I got home, I had to monitor Cat, lest 14 lbs. of paws & claws get him in trouble.

I noticed these tires while I was out. Who hasn't wanted a sweet set of Linglongs for their Wrangler?

 

[Goblue]

Power Duos
650whp GTR on e85
500whp 392 on 93 Octane tune

GO BLUE!!!!

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

I made a much larger rear storage tub to replace the stock plastic one... I was able to make it larger because I do not have a muffler, my exhaust ends right after the resonator... also... the rear sway bar is an inch lower (I used a spacer due to having a 3.5 inch suspension lift)... the bottom of the new tub is at about the same height as the bottom of my bumper.. I have not finished it yet (planning on finishing it in less than a week)... I have not measured the total volume of the new tub... but it seems to be at least double the size of the stock one..

After removing the plastic tub I decided to cut more of the floor to make a bigger tub (I need to weld the body again since the cuts I made were past the pinch welds)


Removing the plastic tub was a pain since is glued to the body:

Fearless cutting of the body!

CAD ( Cardboard Aided Design ) .. notice how much bigger the new tub is compared to the stock plastic one... also.. notice the new one has an elevated area facing the front part... that is to accomodate the sway bar

The bottom is at the same height as the bumper.. the angle of the photo just makes it look lower.. I did not want to go lower than that in order to avoid hitting it on the trails

I used 14 gauge mild steel for the construction of the tub

I used cabinet hinges for the lid.... I will probably change this design in the future

Tub after some sloppy welding.. LOL

Test fitting the tub.... still some grinding and adjusting to do and I need to install the T-Handle locking mechanism.. I am also going to install side latches ... I am going to paint it with Raptor Liner...

I found 4 holes in the body ... I drilled 4 holes to use them to secure the tub to the body... I used 1/2-13 x 4 inch galvanized round head bolts (notice the bolts in the previous photo)

I will most probably be going to redo the whole top.. most likely in 1/8 inch plate and with a much stronger locking mechanism that protects all 4 corners to make it more tamper-proof..


Update 8/22/21

After lots of bare metal cleaning with degreaser and then Acetone.. I gave the parts a couple layers of UPOL Raptor Acid Etch Primer.. good stuff! .. then one thick layer of Raptor liner.. one bottle was not enough.. crap... LOL.. I think it came out decent.. I am satisfied..

Capacity test ... man..I can fit a lot of stuff in there!

 

[ThirtyOne]

I made a much larger rear storage tub to replace the stock plastic one... I was able to make it larger because I do not have a muffler, my exhaust ends right after the resonator... also... the rear sway bar is an inch lower (I used a spacer due to having a 3.5 inch suspension lift)... the bottom of the new tub is at about the same height as the bottom of my bumper.. I have not finished it yet (planning on finishing it in less than a week)... I have not measured the total volume of the new tub... but it seems to be at least double the size of the stock one..

After removing the plastic tub I decided to cut more of the floor to make a bigger tub (I need to weld the body again since the cuts I made were past the pinch welds)


Removing the plastic tub was a pain since is glued to the body:

Fearless cutting of the body!

CAD ( Cardboard Aided Design ) .. notice how much bigger the new tub is compared to the stock plastic one... also.. notice the new one has an elevated area facing the front part... that is to accomodate the sway bar

The bottom is at the same height as the bumper.. the angle of the photo just makes it look lower.. I did not want to go lower than that in order to avoid hitting it on the trails

I used 14 gauge mild steel for the construction of the tub

I used cabinet hinges for the lid.... I will probably change this design in the future

Tub after some sloppy welding.. LOL

Test fitting the tub.... still some grinding and adjusting to do and I need to install the T-Handle locking mechanism.. I am also going to install side latches ... I am going to paint it with Raptor Liner...

I found 4 holes in the body ... I drilled 4 holes to use them to secure the tub to the body... I used 1/2-13 x 4 inch galvanized round head bolts (notice the bolts in the previous photo)

I will most probably be going to redo the whole top.. most likely in 1/8 inch plate and with a much stronger locking mechanism that protects all 4 corners to make it more tamper-proof..

Very cool

 

[Jeronimo44]

@jeronimo that looks great. Did you get that from Pixel Decals? Are you also getting the matching ones for the side vent?

Thanks Kevin!
I used a shop I found on Etsy - plenty of colors and styles to choose from.

Great idea for the vent decals, hadn’t considered it until now!

Etsy Shop: https://etsy.me/2p1tfsK

It comes in three layers
1. Red decal
2. Black decal
3. Is the topography layer that you lay on top of the black in the same process you did the other two. It’s a bit tedious in that it’s applied at once but each of the black lines has to be double checked to insure it’s sticking to the decal and coming off the paper.

$150 total

 

[Varilux]

I replaced a battery today...
Last weekend, I installed a set of Teraflex Falcon SP2 3.5s (electronically adjustable shocks). When the install was done, I enjoyed driving around comparing the soft and firm settings, and then I parked the Jeep in the garage. Today was the first time I needed to drive somewhere, and... the battery was down to 2.5v (that's 2.5, not 12.5). Needless to say, the AGM battery was shot (charged for hours and wouldn't go past 6.5v). If you are thinking of installing the electronically adjustable Teraflex system, the following may be of interest.

First of all, kudos to Autozone- I took my battery in, told them it was ruined by a parasitic drain from a component I installed, and they cheerfully and immediately gave me a new battery (I purchased it in April 2021).

EDIT: I went back and looked at my setup, and realized I overlooked one step in Teraflex's instructions. When wiring a non-eADAPT setup (mine is the e-adjust, not eADAPT), there is an instruction to cut and insulate the ground wire in the part of the loom that goes to key on power. If you hook up that ground (as I did), it closes a solenoid in the controller and powers the shocks constantly. If you cut and insulate the ground (as they instruct) and only hook up the key on positive to an ignition only source, the system works perfectly. To reiterate, when wired correctly, the battery leads have an open circuit until the trigger wire sees ignition power- but if you connect the ground in the key-on part of the harness, the battery leads create a closed circuit all the time. Totally my bad- I should have read Teraflex's instructions more closely. Live and learn...

 

[Thx1158]

Rock hard aluminum bumper, Warn winch and KC lights

 

[Cavs42]

I just watched this guy drop my Taser Mini in my mailbox, so I can tell you that I'm doing right after work!

 

[Terminex]

I installed some light duty D-rings, in the event that I decide to use a cargo net as frequently as I did in previous vehicles. Hardware wasn't provided, so after determining that M8x1.25 was the correct thread size & pitch, off to Ace Hdwe I went for some stainless fasteners. The washers came from shed stock.

Just a suggestion, as i cannot see it from the pic, but i would suggest using plastic or rubber washers under the d rings to prevent scratching the paint. Those things WILL move (swivel) when you connect a nets / straps to them. (Hell in a pinch i have thrown a piece of gorilla tape on the bottom). Just something to keep the edges from scratching the paint.

cheers.

 

[Gladius Nova]

I just watched this guy drop my Taser Mini in my mailbox, so I can tell you that I'm doing right after work!

Stalker! lol....I do the same thing. My wife calls me a creeper cause I am constantly watching our cameras.

 

[Cavs42]

Stalker! lol....I do the same thing. My wife calls me a creeper cause I am constantly watching our cameras.

I get notifications when the front door unlocks and then when there's movement detected by the camera. It drives my wife nuts when I text her "where ya goin?" as she's just leaving the house!

 

[Chile1]

Installed Warn VR 10. Straight-forward install of both mounting plate and winch. Reinstallation of skid plate - aligning bolt holes - presented the biggest obstacle. Got it done. JLURD @ 3500 miles, 4 months ownership, no known (diesel specific) issues, ready to proceed w/ lift. Taking it slow and deliberate. Said it before.....

Best. Ride. Ever.

is that the satin black Mopar grill? I was on the fences of doing the same until i saw your picture and now i really like the way it looks on the white jeep.

 

[lclaborn]

Installed Teraflex Falcon SP2 3.5 e-Adjust shocks and Artec fender liners this weekend (and man, it was hot in Dallas)...
The wiring was a pain, but in the end it was worth it- the soft setting really takes the jolts out of bumps, and with the flick of a switch (which mounts on the grab handle) you can firm things up from the driver's seat. The Artec fender liners were designed to go with the shocks, and they're nice as well- but honestly I think it would have been easier to install them without reading the (really awful) instructions!

We have a long bridge with connecting seams near our house, and I started across it with the firm setting (you set the firmness you want for firm- I selected 7 out of 8, and switching to soft takes it down to 1)... Flipped the switch halfway across and immediately noticed I wasn't bouncing off the seat anymore (the firm is quite firm)!

Hey I was curious what route you chose to bring the wiring into the cab to connect to the switch?

 

[Heimkehr]

Just a suggestion, as i cannot see it from the pic, but i would suggest using plastic or rubber washers under the d rings to prevent scratching the paint. Those things WILL move (swivel) when you connect a nets / straps to them.

I'll do just that. Thanks.

My wife calls me a creeper cause I am constantly watching our cameras.

I installed the Ring Pro a couple of years ago. Since then, we've had a recurring 1080p view of the neighborhood cats walking across the porch at 0200. Money well spent, I tell my wife.

The doorbell cam did recently capture the UPS driver du jour using the new motorcycle tires that he just dropped on the porch as a field-expedient hoop, into which he again dropped two small boxes also in the delivery.

Nothing was damaged, thankfully. Had that occurred, no matter how minor it was, I'd have had an absolute field day with Claims Support. Hi definition doesn't lie.

The annual $30 subscription fee that Ring extorts, so as to have post-facto event viewing available in the Cloud, is totally worth it.