Centurion07
Well-Known Member
DIRECTIONS: "Fully cures in 7 days. BUT if you want it all to flake off except for a piece with that one thumb print you'll leave in it..."So I suck at waiting lol
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DIRECTIONS: "Fully cures in 7 days. BUT if you want it all to flake off except for a piece with that one thumb print you'll leave in it..."So I suck at waiting lol
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You could do what I do with painted partsā¦ I wait until my wife is gone for several hours and I post bake them in her oven. Just be sure to air out the oven and kitchen before she returns.Been thinking about upgrades and Iām pretty sure Iām going with rubicon take off axlesā¦.however itāll take me a while to save the money for this.
In the mean time it was suggested I just enjoy and trail ride my jeepā¦find what I like (even though I think I have an idea). One suggestion was to get some skid plates (more than whatās on the jeep now). I found a front and rear rough country diff skids. They were a little banged up and rusted (got them used). Hit them with some rust preventing black and then finished them in red to match the rubicon shocks I installed. Not installed yet but sitting in the sun ācookingā
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Built and painted this whole thing with rattle canā¦.somehow sheās still holding paint 14 years later lolDIRECTIONS: "Fully cures in 7 days. BUT if you want it all to flake off except for a piece with that one thumb print you'll leave in it..."
Oh I'm a big fan of rattle can work. But like others I sometimes rush dry/cure times and have to start over.Built and painted this whole thing with rattle canā¦.somehow sheās still holding paint 14 years later lol
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I like to pre bake my parts when possible. It really helps the paint to stick.You could do what I do with painted partsā¦ I wait until my wife is gone for several hours and I post bake them in her oven. Just be sure to air out the oven and kitchen before she returns.
Also great ideas!I like to pre bake my parts when possible. It really helps the paint to stick.
That and get the rattle can heated up also.
This is exactly what I'm going to do, but I'm painting mine red to match the red M.O.R.E engine skid plate I also got. BTW, this is Ginga from our NOVAJeepers forum. Cool to see you here!Been thinking about upgrades and Iām pretty sure Iām going with rubicon take off axlesā¦.however itāll take me a while to save the money for this.
In the mean time it was suggested I just enjoy and trail ride my jeepā¦find what I like (even though I think I have an idea). One suggestion was to get some skid plates (more than whatās on the jeep now). I found a front and rear rough country diff skids. They were a little banged up and rusted (got them used). Hit them with some rust preventing black and then finished them in red to match the rubicon shocks I installed. Not installed yet but sitting in the sun ācookingā
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Aye! Whatās up man! Wish I could post pictures over there but I havenāt paid lolThis is exactly what I'm going to do, but I'm painting mine red to match the red M.O.R.E engine skid plate I also got. BTW, this is Ginga from our NOVAJeepers forum. Cool to see you here!
good information to have in the pocket book. thanks for sharing and the good review for the maximus crew. the couple times ive called them ive had a great experienceNot me, but Maximus-3 helped solve a mystery for me. A couple months ago I started to get a bad wheel shimmy when hitting a pot hole or something at low speed. It wasn't super bothersome and had only happened a couple times, but one time with the wife in the Jeep, and she is like "you have to take it in" and won't ride in the Jeep. So I stop after work at Maximus-3 (they did my lift and steering stabilizer earlier this year). They check out everything, can't find anything, adjusted wheel castor, etc., no help. They suggested a Steer Smarts Yeti XD Trackbar. They stay late and get that installed, and take it for a test drive (bad railroad crossing near their shop) and its not better they say. They offered to swap the track bar back, but I know those are good, so I kept it. No charges besides the cost of the bar. They wanted me to bring it back today (Monday) when the owner was present to track it down.
I leave the shop and hit the railroad tracks and the whole jeep shudders uncontrollably. Not a shimmy, but a full Jeep shudder. Drive a bit further, happens again. And again, and again, any bump and the Jeep has to come to a stop to resolve the wobble. Call the shop, pretty much hoping someone was still there, but got a better response, "press 1 for after hours support", next thing I know, I am on the phone with the owner who is on vacation. He was flying home that night, arriving in Detroit at 5am, asked if I could meet him at the shop at 1pm Saturday.
Just him, his brother, and me. He had me turn the wheel left and right, back and forth, he found the problem, and his brother swapped with me. Where the Yeti bar connected to the axle, there was a lot of play, the bar was able to shift a good 1/2" or more on the wheel turns. Taking it all apart, the holes for mounting the track bar, the rear hole had oblonged out (nice oval, not a nice round hole). He surmised that the factory track bar acted a bit like a spring and absorbed some of the shudder, where the much beefier Yeti just made it all wobble.
Took off a bunch of parts. And got the welder out. The first plan was to weld plate steel to the back of the bracket attached to axle, but not a lot of room for it. Then the plan was a beefy grade 8 washer welded that the bolt would pass through. He did it, but was not happy with it, so that was ground off. The final solution was a jig to make sure a sacrificial bolt was straight through the hole, and he welded a flanged nut to the back of the metal flange. Really made a ugly weld to fill in the area. But it worked. Wobble gone. I mean I can take any bump very solidly now.
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This picture was me after I hit the area with some paint Sunday. He called Sunday to make sure all was still good and said he forgot to paint the bare metal and to stop back, but I said I would take care of it.
He also drilled out the hole for the steering stabilizer a tiny bit and went up a bolt size there with another bigger flange nut on the inside, that nut hits the track bar hopefully also helping any future "Wearing down" of the track bar mounting holes.
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Before he let me go, he also adjusted steering wheel, he felt it was off a degree or two, and redid the bolts on the drag link to make sure everything was tight.
Oh, and he didn't charge anything, called it "warranty work" for the lift. I would say in total 7-8 hours were put into the problem and it only cost me a $325 track bar that I probably needed anyway.
So Maximus-3 will keep me as a customer for life.
Read a lot of posts on here about different things causing the "wobble". This might be worth for other to check out, if the rear hole has worn out, that could be a cause of the problem.
From Steer Smarts I have their "Steering Stabilizer shock" and Yeti XD Trackbar.![]()
Father rapers!Wishing a very happy Thanksgiving to all of you gents sitting next to me on the Group W bench.
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I had to pay fifty dollars and pick up the garbage.Father rapers!
Father rapers sitting right there on the bench next to me!
Happy Thanksgiving to all on the jeep forum site!!Wishing a very happy Thanksgiving to all of you gents sitting next to me on the Group W bench.
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