What did you do TO your Jeep JL today?

RubiRob

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The bead lock bolts are longer, maybe if you dress the holes with a tap you’ll make out ok.
So there are other bolts for the beads? The instructions literally say "do not use any hardware other than whats provided" also it talked about using the provided valve stems and washers, none of which were provided. Many of those bolts won't go in, others are probably worse now. Not sure about tapping them myself. Talking to the reseller now about what to do next.
 

Maverick909

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Found out my dirty life wheels had messed up threads / bolts for the beadlocks.

those do not look like proper bolt hardness. i would talk with the manufacture of the wheel or seller of the wheel to let them know that quality control is failing on the bolts they are buying. If those rims are aluminum and that bolt failed that bad the Heat treating process failed to make proper hardness and inspection of the hardness failed as well. this could be a big deal for the rim manufacture if there is a beadlock that completely fails due to those bolts.
 

RubiRob

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those do not look like proper bolt hardness. i would talk with the manufacture of the wheel or seller of the wheel to let them know that quality control is failing on the bolts they are buying. If those rims are aluminum and that bolt failed that bad the Heat treating process failed to make proper hardness and inspection of the hardness failed as well. this could be a big deal for the rim manufacture if there is a beadlock that completely fails due to those bolts.
@Roky is saying the bolts are replaced by different ones. Roky do you know if they are stronger grade by chance?
 

Roky

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@Roky is saying the bolts are replaced by different ones. Roky do you know if they are stronger grade by chance?
They’re the same, just longer. Has to be that kind of bolt because can’t use stainless with aluminum without some kind of grease, even then there’s a chance of corrosion.
 

Maverick909

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you just need a good grade 8 bolt. i wouldn't run anything less than that
 

Roky

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They're only grade 5?
Just make sure it’s the same material, you don’t want something that’ll rust or corrode. Grade doesn’t matter, your going into aluminum
 

FitBliss

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It doesn't look like your carrier is adjusted all the way. The tire should be touching those bump stops.
Naw, it needs to be measured and brought in, but with the new full system it really doesn't matter if touches the factory bump stops or not, she ain't moving anywhere. The idea of the bump stop is to stop the Tire from making contact if you hit a large obstacle/bump but when you replace the entire hinge system and beef up the door support you see that spare ain't moving a centimeter and it isn't even close to as loose and flimsy as the factory plastic setup. I can literally hang from the tire and swing and it does not move even one centimeter. Plan on pulling it in before we hit the trails this weekend. :rock:
 

Martindfletcher

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They’re the same, just longer. Has to be that kind of bolt because can’t use stainless with aluminum without some kind of grease, even then there’s a chance of corrosion.
@Roky is saying the bolts are replaced by different ones. Roky do you know if they are stronger grade by chance?
I replaced all my bead lock bolts with local grade 8 ones that were exact same size and used bronze anti seize. Previously I snapped a few by not being methodical and patient enough with the pattern Helped a lot. In my case they were 1/2 not 13mm which helped a bit with socket clearance. What a pain the ass they are.
 

RubiRob

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I replaced all my bead lock bolts with local grade 8 ones that were exact same size. Previously I snapped a few by not being methodical and patient enough with the pattern and used bronze anti seize. Helped a lot. In my case they were 1/2 not 13mm which helped a bit with socket clearance. What a pain the ass they are.
Good into, but I feel like I would need to get these tapped again to safely consider using them with lock rings, no?
 
 
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