What did you do to your 2dr today?

[mikem20]

Make sure the clearance at the rear storage is sufficient. On my 4 door, it was too close and over time, the heat melted the corner of my under floor storage.
maybe the 2door guys won’t have that clearance issue.

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[The Last Cowboy]

A small thing, but those exposed threaded holes on the rear part of the roll bar always bothered me. I can see them with the hard top on and they bother me even more with the top off.

Stopped by tractor supply today and picked up some some hex socket head cap screws. M8x20. They thread right in and make it look a little more finished. $4.00 spent.

 

[TheBirdie72]

A small thing, but those bolt holes on the rear part of the roll bar always bothered me. I can see them with the hard top on and they bother me even more with the top off.

Stopped by tractor supply today and picked up some some hex socket head cap screws. M8x20. They thread right in and make it look a little more finished. $4.00 spent.

Nice seat belt bungees!

 

[kakwvu]

Nice seat belt bungees!

I need to get some of these so bad. I always say I need them.. and then never get anything.

 

[TheBirdie72]

I need to get some of these so bad. I always say I need them.. and then never get anything.

Yeah, those are my favorite cheap mod. Picked up an 8 pack in Lowes for a few bucks!

 

[The Last Cowboy]

Nice seat belt bungees!

They were a little too long to make a good, tight connection. I tied a knot in them to shorten it a little and then they worked great.

 

[Blazing Saddles]

They were a little too long to make a good, tight connection. I tied a knot in them to shorten it a little and then they worked great.

I grabbed some velcro straps from the hardware store and cut them to length. They work well, too.

 

[blk2doorjl]

Yeah, those are my favorite cheap mod. Picked up an 8 pack in Lowes for a few bucks!

I used black zip ties on mine. Works well too!

 

[The Last Cowboy]

I grabbed some velcro straps from the hardware store and cut them to length. They work well, too.

I like that solution better, but I had these in the garage already.

 

[zrickety]

A small thing, but those bolt holes on the rear part of the roll bar always bothered me. I can see them with the hard top on and they bother me even more with the top off.

Stopped by tractor supply today and picked up some some hex socket head cap screws. M8x20. They thread right in and make it look a little more finished. $4.00 spent.

If you want to spend a few bucks there are low profile versions available.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/round-head-screw/wht001100/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/hex-bolt-priced-each/34211164044/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/torx-bolt-with-washer-m8x18/41618217419/

 

[GRAK]

Good find zrickety, may grab some.

I tried out a moonshade awning, is not bad, but during setup the wind caught it & blew it up n over onto the hood with me struggling with it like mr bean, made me laugh.. def need to weigh it down

 

[WRGLR-JL]

Installed the Lasfit auxiliary switch panel kit. First thing I did was replace the 30A fuses to aux I & aux II to 20A fuses. Aux one is for KC 6" Apollo's @ 100watts each. Felt better with a fuse closer to the wiring included with lights. Install was fairly straight forward, no mechanic needed. A few comments though:
1) The replacement grommet for the firewall pass through hole is nice but it needs to be sized better for the application. It's appears to not entirely cover the hole like the OEM firewall plug does. I will probably drill a hole in the OEM plug to accommodate the wire harness into the cabin.

2) The switches are not as nice as the OEM version. When I push the button to "ON" all is good but when I push for "OFF" sometimes I need to press it twice. Not sure if this is normal for this switch or not. Probably should contact Lasfit about this issue.

3) This is not a deal breaker, and I'm glad it worked out this way, but the description for the switch pod stated black and I rec'd the one with chrome trim. Like I said I glad the trim came as chrome.

Since I do not require a RJ45 jack in the left cubby spot I order the Mopar left cubby replacement part, $13.00 vs the $27.00 sale price on Lasfit website. Just waiting for that to be delivered and will install.

I was surprised that when I removed the dash panel where the switch pod goes I found OEM switch pod plug attached by a clip behind it. I got all excited that perhaps there was a way to install the OEM switched after all. Of course when I checked the fuse box I had none of the relays or fuses needed for the switches. I could find where the plug's wires would be in the engine bay, but you'd think there would be a way of adding the relays, fuses and wiring without having to buy the aftermarket harness @ $300 plus.

Once done I installed a pair of KC Apollo's and everything works !!

 

[crudesolo]

Got into a little fender bender a few weeks ago. Nothing serious, just broken plastic and turn signals.

I decided to do some aftermarket flares while it was in the shop. I got it back today and it came out way better than I anticipated. Doesn’t look too goofy at all with the stock Rubi wheels.

 

[WRGLR-JL]

Installed the Lasfit auxiliary switch panel kit. First thing I did was replace the 30A fuses to aux I & aux II to 20A fuses. Aux one is for KC 6" Apollo's @ 100watts each. Felt better with a fuse closer to the wiring included with lights. Install was fairly straight forward, no mechanic needed. A few comments though:
1) The replacement grommet for the firewall pass through hole is nice but it needs to be sized better for the application. It's appears to not entirely cover the hole like the OEM firewall plug does. I will probably drill a hole in the OEM plug to accommodate the wire harness into the cabin.

2) The switches are not as nice as the OEM version. When I push the button to "ON" all is good but when I push for "OFF" sometimes I need to press it twice. Not sure if this is normal for this switch or not. Probably should contact Lasfit about this issue.

3) This is not a deal breaker, and I'm glad it worked out this way, but the description for the switch pod stated black and I rec'd the one with chrome trim. Like I said I glad the trim came as chrome.

Since I do not require a RJ45 jack in the left cubby spot I order the Mopar left cubby replacement part, $13.00 vs the $27.00 sale price on Lasfit website. Just waiting for that to be delivered and will install.

I was surprised that when I removed the dash panel where the switch pod goes I found OEM switch pod plug attached by a clip behind it. I got all excited that perhaps there was a way to install the OEM switched after all. Of course when I checked the fuse box I had none of the relays or fuses needed for the switches. I could find where the plug's wires would be in the engine bay, but you'd think there would be a way of adding the relays, fuses and wiring without having to buy the aftermarket harness @ $300 plus.

Once done I installed a pair of KC Apollo's and everything works !!

Promise last post about this. The Mopar left cubby arrived so I had to install it right away... All looks good and works. Forgot about the flag decal I added today as well.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Getting closer to running again.

Still have a big punch list, but I feel like I’m through the worst.
Complete so far:
MC 2.5” springs swapped in.
Rear extended sway bar links in.
UD44 hooked up, oiled up, and almost ready. MC tie rod went in with it. Modified wheel speed sensor brackets today and it seems good.
Upper shock mount relocations done.
Old front fenders removed.
To-do:
Set caster, then toe. Edit: Every axle is unique. Mine came out at 5 degrees on one side and 0 on the other. I’m hoping fixing my passenger caster will fix my sway bar contact issue.
See if rear sway bar links will work up front for my height/travel.
Replace drag link, center steering.
Install steering stabilizer.
Install tazer (for FAD delete).
Bumper swap (implied task of winch removal and reinstall).
Install Artec aluminum inner fender liners.
Attach the MP Concept fender flares, minus the inner liner. I already built them.
Break-in and then reset track bars once it has settled.

She feels so much better already. I can’t wait for the first test ride. Probably off to the driveshaft shop at that point.

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