Flip
Well-Known Member
Was it very difficult to install? It looks cool dude!Put a snorkel on today. Went with the high but might go with the fender one.
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Was it very difficult to install? It looks cool dude!Put a snorkel on today. Went with the high but might go with the fender one.
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Just curious, is there a benefit to long sway bar links like you have there?Long overdue Steer Smarts sector shaft brace and track bar reinforcement.
Haven’t seen anyone do this without also upgrading the steering stabilizer, tie rod, and/or drag link so I will be sure to do a longer write up.
I’ve only taken her around the neighborhood and onto some back roads, up to around 45 mph and I can feel the difference. Steering feels heavy - in a good way.
It feels like I now have immediate engagement between the steering wheel and tires. So far, I can’t recommend this enough.
Also, I do have the steel steering box and still went with the sector shaft brace. Figured if I’m in there, I might as well do it.
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Red on port and green on starboard. Excellent.Whew, it has been a while since I've posted, but Stomper got a few upgrades over the past couple of weeks.
- Added Rhino Rack HD bars with fishing rod holder, Roofnest Litewing, and a kayak carrier.
- Replaced the B&M shifters with AJT Design V3 (no pics yet)
- Installed DV8 spare delete
- Removed the Slipstream and installed a Vector Offroad platform (added some marine mat), tailgate table, and rear e-dock
- Replaced exhaust delete with an Injen axle back
- Installed Cascadia 4x4 VSS (no pics yet)
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Then I did some modding in the kayak - added lights. Already had a fishfinder and Bixpy motor. I'm ready for some adventure and R&R with my wifey.
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Normally, no, they only need to be long enough to keep the sway bar at roughly parallel to the ground.Just curious, is there a benefit to long sway bar links like you have there?
I know... I know... I've posted this before, but...![]()
Got the c2 wired up and have the backlight hooked up to turn signals.
Thank you for taking the time to explain that for me, I appreciate that.Normally, no, they only need to be long enough to keep the sway bar at roughly parallel to the ground.
Mine came this long in my Metalcloak kit because their suspensions have so much travel and this is the Rubicon specific link.
Because Rubicons have the electronic disconnect, you never have to remove your sway bar links. So, at full droop, you have to be sure the sway bar links are long enough they don’t allow the sway bar to flip back the other way, bending the links and possibly causing other damage when the suspension cycles back.
If you use shocks with less travel or manually disconnect, this is generally not an issue.
No worries! It takes an incredible amount of travel to get the links to flip. These are the only pictures I have with the jeep flexed and you can see the sway bar link, but you have to zoom a bit. Even with all of that droop, the sway bar is just below the frame rail.Thank you for taking the time to explain that for me, I appreciate that.
Again - yours is one of my favorite Jeeps on the forum.Got my 37s installed. Super frustrating experience but I'm happy they're on now and it's done with.
Next step is to figure out what to do with the tailgate. It's currently on the stock hinges so want to do some sort of reinforcement eventually.
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Again - yours is one of my favorite Jeeps on the forum.
I’m currently trying to decide between the CavFab or Teraflex hinges. They both get great reviews from those that have been them installed.
What if it rains?I did the same...![]()
I was just wondering if you were prepared. I had full confidence in you btw ?Are you my straight man?![]()
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