What aftermarket battery are you running?

mcdanger

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I used Optimas in my RV but they did not seem to last like they used to last. I've since heard that they moved production to Mexico. I have not bought them for 10 years. Both Odyssey and Northstar make AGM batteries made in the US that I have used in boats in the past with good results. The last 2 batteries I purchased were X2 Power group 31 batteries from Batteries+Bulbs because I needed them quickly and could not get Northstar or Odyssey Batteries without waiting for them to be delivered. All three brands Odyssey Northstar and X2 are made with pure lead and NOT recycled lead...so I am told.
X2 have performed well and still in use and come with a four year warranty. None of the 3 brands are "bullet"proof that I know of. AGM's do not corrode or require water like lead acid batteries. I do not work for Northstar Odyssey or Batteries Plus.





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RidgeRider

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Does anyone know what the group size is for the stock 700a battery that comes with the Towing Package? Couldn't locate it on the battery. Thanks.
 

Rhinebeck01

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Does anyone know what the group size is for the stock 700a battery that comes with the Towing Package? Couldn't locate it on the battery. Thanks.
Group 48 / H6 -Main Battery is 2018-2020 JL or JT

Factory Tow Package option gets you get 700 otherwise you would get 650.
 

Blade1668

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In past I have got well past 10 years of life with Optima batteries, some years back I had a few that died a short life. One was killed by a "quality" name brand battery maintainer / charger used with high end cars. Now buying any US made AMG batteries (RV / marine duel use battery) FYI on battery maintainer / charger's I have had good luck with the Optima small one, it's saved brought back a few AMG batteries for me. The CTec one killed every battery it has been near, I cut wires off and trashed it. Should have bought 2 Optima ones.
 

Trojan_Actual

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How would a Genesis setup w/ Odysseys be with a Jeep that has the mild hybrid?
 

Backpack

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I used Optimas in my RV but they did not seem to last like they used to last. I've since heard that they moved production to Mexico.
Why does everyone equate made in Mexico with lower quality? I’ve worked in Mexico for over 1 5 years and have moved multiple operations from US production to Mexico production. In every case, our quality improved with the move. This is for both automated assembly and hand assembled products. The workers in Mexico are much more quality conscious.

What you’re probably experiencing is the company is now using cheaper materials that may not be as good as they used before. All manufacturers work on continuous improvement and associated cost savings. Often times this savings comes from changing a raw material. We always try to ensure the quality of a new material is equal to or better than the more expensive material, but it doesn’t always work out. In some cases we’ve actually switched back to an original supplier because of the customer complaints and problems we had with the new material.
 

WranglerMan

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Recently had a Genesis duel system put in with Full River 750-25 batteries, ESS battery and holder are gone so time will tell.
 

steelponycowboy

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Why does everyone equate made in Mexico with lower quality? I’ve worked in Mexico for over 1 5 years and have moved multiple operations from US production to Mexico production. In every case, our quality improved with the move. This is for both automated assembly and hand assembled products. The workers in Mexico are much more quality conscious.

What you’re probably experiencing is the company is now using cheaper materials that may not be as good as they used before. All manufacturers work on continuous improvement and associated cost savings. Often times this savings comes from changing a raw material. We always try to ensure the quality of a new material is equal to or better than the more expensive material, but it doesn’t always work out. In some cases we’ve actually switched back to an original supplier because of the customer complaints and problems we had with the new material.
The reason everyone equates Mexico to bad quality because there is plenty of experience out there to show it. I have a buddy that works for an aerospace company that moved operations to Mexico, every part that came from the Mexican plant was defective and had to be rebuilt here in the USA. Optima batteries, you used to get a 5 year warranty, now it is 2 years. Wonder why? I have not had a Yellow that has lasted more than a year in the last 5 years. Now I get two free ones because they are always under warranty but it is a real pain in the ass to have to remove them from my Genesis Off Road dual battery trays and bring in to have them exchanged. I know dozens of Jeepers that have had the same experience with Optima since they moved from Texas to Mexico for manufacturing.

If you want a good quality battery, go with Odyssey, Interstate or Deka.
 

Leisure Freak

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I installed the SmartStopStart to disable ESS and I've kept it disabled from the beginning. i know from other threads that the ESS battery is still being charged. What I want to know from definitive sources (i.e. those that have done it successfully) is exactly how to eliminate the ESS battery altogether and use a single battery. Cheers
There have been a few people on this forum that followed the Jebiruph ESS battery bypass method. Remove the aux ESS little battery's ground connection on the main battery post to isolate it and put a fused jumper between n1 and n2 terminals in the fuse box to trick the system into thinking the little buried battery is still connected to avoid throwing any codes.
I plan on going single battery with a yellow top optima and this bypass method once the 3/36 warranty is done. I made and carry a fused jumper just in case the little dude croaks at an inconvenient place to far away from service.
See:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-aux-battery-bypass.17293/
 

neil

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Recently had a Genesis duel system put in with Full River 750-25 batteries, ESS battery and holder are gone so time will tell.
Nice, did you get the monitor kit?
 

WranglerMan

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Nice, did you get the monitor kit?
No sir I did not, it was pretty pricy to begin with as I also had a hitch mounted so I had a local shop here in Houston do the work as I was not personally comfortable doing the removal of the stock equipment, the install looked fairly easily but the removal of the fuse box and all the cables just made me think I better let someone else do it, not sure how tough it would be to install that part but I have a meter that I can check the voltage if needed just not a convenient as looking at a screen
 

Gee-pah

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There have been a few people on this forum that followed the Jebiruph ESS battery bypass method. Remove the aux ESS little battery's ground connection on the main battery post to isolate it and put a fused jumper between n1 and n2 terminals in the fuse box to trick the system into thinking the little buried battery is still connected to avoid throwing any codes.
I plan on going single battery with a yellow top optima and this bypass method once the 3/36 warranty is done. I made and carry a fused jumper just in case the little dude croaks at an inconvenient place to far away from service.
See:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-aux-battery-bypass.17293/
Hey Tommy:

You make a strong point on a hack I'm very aware of. Two things though.

1) IMHO I would not operate this otherwise very valuable to know hack with ESS permitted to engage. I say this because of the way the ESS system works: specifically testing the ESS battery for ample voltage before--provided all other criterion for ESS to engage are met--engaging ESS, and then monitoring the ESS battery's voltage during the event, to prematurely end the event if necessary, if the ESS battery's voltage drops below a threshold.

You see, with the hack, you basically hardwire both batteries in parallel 100% of the time, as opposed to the JL having them in parallel 99.9% of the time, (but for ESS events, and an initial test of the ESS battery prior to cold cranking.) In doing this, the test of the ESS battery may become a test of composite voltage of both batteries...leading an ESS event to occur perhaps when it shouldn't, or keeping it in effect to long, robbing the main battery of cranking power--the whole reason for isolating the batteries in the two battery design.

2) Back in 2018, an ESS battery without adequate voltage--much less so than required for ESS to kick in--would strand the JL, even though the crank is done with both batteries if this ESS test is passed. There is a flash for 2018's to make them adopt the crank logic of what I am to understand is that of model year 2019 and beyond, which is to fail to cold crank if the ESS battery lacks adequate voltage, throw a diagnostic code, and then permit the crank to occur on the main battery upon subsequent cold crank attempts by the operator.

By no means do I wish to diminish the worth of this hack. I just with to share that there may be indication for how to best use it, and how it was likely most relevant for model year 2018 JLs without the aforementioned flash.
 

neil

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No sir I did not, it was pretty pricy to begin with as I also had a hitch mounted so I had a local shop here in Houston do the work as I was not personally comfortable doing the removal of the stock equipment, the install looked fairly easily but the removal of the fuse box and all the cables just made me think I better let someone else do it, not sure how tough it would be to install that part but I have a meter that I can check the voltage if needed just not a convenient as looking at a screen
I've been researching it. Current JLUR is 1K miles, but with what I use it for, I am not really trusting of the little battery especially with our weather changes.

when did you have yours installed? 6cyl? You have the aux buttons and 240 alternator? you have much aux needs? Any issues so far?
 

Leisure Freak

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Hey Tommy:

You make a strong point on a hack I'm very aware of. Two things though.

1) IMHO I would not operate this otherwise very valuable to know hack with ESS permitted to engage. I say this because of the way the ESS system works: specifically testing the ESS battery for ample voltage before--provided all other criterion for ESS to engage are met--engaging ESS, and then monitoring the ESS battery's voltage during the event, to prematurely end the event if necessary, if the ESS battery's voltage drops below a threshold.

You see, with the hack, you basically hardwire both batteries in parallel 100% of the time, as opposed to the JL having them in parallel 99.9% of the time, (but for ESS events, and an initial test of the ESS battery prior to cold cranking.) In doing this, the test of the ESS battery may become a test of composite voltage of both batteries...leading an ESS event to occur perhaps when it shouldn't, or keeping it in effect to long, robbing the main battery of cranking power--the whole reason for isolating the batteries in the two battery design.

2) Back in 2018, an ESS battery without adequate voltage--much less so than required for ESS to kick in--would strand the JL, even though the crank is done with both batteries if this ESS test is passed. There is a flash for 2018's to make them adopt the crank logic of what I am to understand is that of model year 2019 and beyond, which is to fail to cold crank if the ESS battery lacks adequate voltage, throw a diagnostic code, and then permit the crank to occur on the main battery upon subsequent cold crank attempts by the operator.

By no means do I wish to diminish the worth of this hack. I just with to share that there may be indication for how to best use it, and how it was likely most relevant for model year 2018 JLs without the aforementioned flash.
Thanks. When the time comes I will also use smart stop/start or other module to make sure ESS doesn't ever accidently engage while I'm in the hack/single battery config. If it doesn't work long-term technically or fit my needs then I'll have to make new decisions.
 

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