Well, I was going to buy an AEV DualSport RT Suspension yesterday...

[cosmokenney]

My grandma used to say, "you buy cheap you buy twice." I don't know if I can because I don't even own one myself yet, but, I recommend Clayton. Their customer support has been great with all my questions. I'm getting close to ordering, probably mid to end of February. At this point, even my wife is saying, "just buy it!" because we can't hit any trails with 37s on stock suspension.

The problem with the Clayton offerings is I'll have to do a bunch of guesswork on which shocks to buy? Does it come with everything I need for a decent lift? Will I find out after I install everything that I should have bought their bump stops? Will I find out I should have also purchased LCAs? And by the time you add a new drive shaft and shocks, that's easily a $3000 lift kit -- unless you cheap out on the shocks.
For the above reasons I may just go with the Mopar. I just want to install it and forget about it. I don't want to have to keep wrenching to get rid of death wobble, keep adding parts to get the alignment right...

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[COJeeper]

The problem with the Clayton offerings is I'll have to do a bunch of guesswork on which shocks to buy? Does it come with everything I need for a decent lift? Will I find out after I install everything that I should have bought their bump stops? Will I find out I should have also purchased LCAs? And by the time you add a new drive shaft and shocks, that's easily a $3000 lift kit -- unless you cheap out on the shocks.
For the above reasons I may just go with the Mopar. I just want to install it and forget about it. I don't want to have to keep wrenching to get rid of death wobble, keep adding parts to get the alignment right...

Fair enough, I'm right with you too. I'm going with the Clayton 2.5" Overland + and Fox 2.0 remote reservoir from Accutune. Yup, it's going to cost me about just under $4000 but it will be a full kit, very highly reviewed, and they have great support. With the cost of everything rising, it's taking me a bit longer to save for it but I'm getting closer. You'll get both reviews from the Mopar kit, some will say it's not complete some will say it's great. I haven't seen any bad reviews about Clayton yet.

Any way you go, you still have an awesome Jeep!!!!

 

[Clayton Off Road]

The problem with the Clayton offerings is I'll have to do a bunch of guesswork on which shocks to buy? Does it come with everything I need for a decent lift? Will I find out after I install everything that I should have bought their bump stops? Will I find out I should have also purchased LCAs? And by the time you add a new drive shaft and shocks, that's easily a $3000 lift kit -- unless you cheap out on the shocks.
For the above reasons I may just go with the Mopar. I just want to install it and forget about it. I don't want to have to keep wrenching to get rid of death wobble, keep adding parts to get the alignment right...

Only chiming in here to clarify, totally fine if you're going with a different option of course! The shocks available on our website that we feel work best with our products are the Fox and Falcon offerings. Every single one of our lift kits and products features a "related items" section which shows you which shocks or other components work with that kit. The Ride Right kit is one of the more complete entry-level options on the market, only omitting shocks as we are not a shock manufacturer, but a re-seller, and of course our bump stop extensions which can be added back in if desired right from the related items tab.

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

I was comparing both the AEV and OMU lifts when I was shopping. I went with OME in the end, as their customer service was better, and they are a bit more transparent with the weight ratings of the parts.

 

[cosmokenney]

Only chiming in here to clarify, totally fine if you're going with a different option of course! The shocks available on our website that we feel work best with our products are the Fox and Falcon offerings. Every single one of our lift kits and products features a "related items" section which shows you which shocks or other components work with that kit. The Ride Right kit is one of the more complete entry-level options on the market, only omitting shocks as we are not a shock manufacturer, but a re-seller, and of course our bump stop extensions which can be added back in if desired right from the related items tab.

Thanks again for participating. In some of my above posts I think I misstated some things. All the brands are starting to blur together.
I was seriously considering Metalcloak since they are 1 hour drive from me and I could pick up the kit to avoid shipping charges. But they are the ones that keep trying to sell a driveshaft and I don't even know why.

I want to go with close to a 2" lift for my 2 door Rubicon (3.6L). +/- a half inch in either direction won't bother me at all. I want to run 37" tires (most likely 2nd gen Patagonia or Geolandar MT -- so close to true 37" as they come) on the stock Rubicon rims.
Do you offer a complete package with everything I need to install it and forget? Or, with the above requirements, do I need a new driveshaft or not? What length shocks do I need? Do I need bump stops or not? I don't know the answers to any of those questions. And that's why I keep searching for a complete package.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Thanks again for participating. In some of my above posts I think I misstated some things. All the brands are starting to blur together.
I was seriously considering Metalcloak since they are 1 hour drive from me and I could pick up the kit to avoid shipping charges. But they are the ones that keep trying to sell a driveshaft and I don't even know why.

I want to go with close to a 2" lift for my 2 door Rubicon (3.6L). +/- a half inch in either direction won't bother me at all. I want to run 37" tires (most likely 2nd gen Patagonia or Geolandar MT -- so close to true 37" as they come) on the stock Rubicon rims.
Do you offer a complete package with everything I need to install it and forget? Or, with the above requirements, do I need a new driveshaft or not? What length shocks do I need? Do I need bump stops or not? I don't know the answers to any of those questions. And that's why I keep searching for a complete package.

No worries, I understand how much of a rabbit hole this can be. If you'd like you can always give us a call and we can help out with any questions you have, but to answer the above I would say: to stick within your price range, the Ride Right kit is a relatively complete solution that comes with everything you need for proper geometry correction. The only other options I would add in would probably be a set of Fox 2.0 shocks which is a great set of affordable high-quality after-market shocks that pair great with our kit, and bump stop extensions only if you plan on really flexing it out, as this is what will prevent you from going into the fenders. A new driveshaft is not required, only recommended if you plan on wheeling the vehicle hard as this is when the stock unit wears out faster than intended and could break, and this is the case really with any lift you put on the vehicle, but becomes more necessary the taller you go.

Even if you don't plan on using our kit or products, take a look at our Ride Right kit and use it as a template to identify the most crucial components when lifting a vehicle. This will help you greatly in making sure you maintain a smooth and comfortable ride!

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-25-ride-right-lift-kit-4dr-2018-jl-4xe

 

[JT1]

Thanks again for participating. In some of my above posts I think I misstated some things. All the brands are starting to blur together.
I was seriously considering Metalcloak since they are 1 hour drive from me and I could pick up the kit to avoid shipping charges. But they are the ones that keep trying to sell a driveshaft and I don't even know why.

I want to go with close to a 2" lift for my 2 door Rubicon (3.6L). +/- a half inch in either direction won't bother me at all. I want to run 37" tires (most likely 2nd gen Patagonia or Geolandar MT -- so close to true 37" as they come) on the stock Rubicon rims.
Do you offer a complete package with everything I need to install it and forget? Or, with the above requirements, do I need a new driveshaft or not? What length shocks do I need? Do I need bump stops or not? I don't know the answers to any of those questions. And that's why I keep searching for a complete package.

Let me try to clarify some things for you.

If you are looking at 2-2.5" lifts, you won't need a driveshaft unless you buy the metalcloak rocksport shocks. Those front shocks are long enough to let the drivers front tire extend far enough to damage your front driveshaft (more than 29" extended length)

The Clayton RideRight 2.5 is plenty for your needs, as is the metalcloak 2.5 dual-rate NO SHOCK version.. then you can pick up whatever shock matches the 2.5" lift range of your lift and your budget.

You will need bumpstops, but they all work basically the same and mix and matching them is no problem.

For the terrain you state you wheel on, where belly height is the most important thing, buy a 1, 1.5 or 2" spacer lift. IF you like the shocks damping you have now, buy some shock extension brackets and run what you already have, or spend some of that savings on some nice shocks that will be able to dampen the 37's.

 

[GATORB8]

Thanks again for participating. In some of my above posts I think I misstated some things. All the brands are starting to blur together.
I was seriously considering Metalcloak since they are 1 hour drive from me and I could pick up the kit to avoid shipping charges. But they are the ones that keep trying to sell a driveshaft and I don't even know why.

I want to go with close to a 2" lift for my 2 door Rubicon (3.6L). +/- a half inch in either direction won't bother me at all. I want to run 37" tires (most likely 2nd gen Patagonia or Geolandar MT -- so close to true 37" as they come) on the stock Rubicon rims.
Do you offer a complete package with everything I need to install it and forget? Or, with the above requirements, do I need a new driveshaft or not? What length shocks do I need? Do I need bump stops or not? I don't know the answers to any of those questions. And that's why I keep searching for a complete package.

Let me see if I can explain the driveshaft thing. The stock front driveshaft has two things going against it, it's really thick, and it's got a RZeppa style CV joint up top.

A shock with 28-29" extended length lets the front axle drop (droop) pretty far. That creates a possibility for the driveshaft to hit the transmission crossmember/skid, and to exceed the flex of the RZeppa joing. This was mine at full droop with 28.5" extended length shocks, you'll see I'd have issues with both locations with ANY more extension:

 

[jhackathorne]

Let me see if I can explain the driveshaft thing. The stock front driveshaft has two things going against it, it's really thick, and it's got a RZeppa style CV joint up top.

A shock with 28-29" extended length lets the front axle drop (droop) pretty far. That creates a possibility for the driveshaft to hit the transmission crossmember/skid, and to exceed the flex of the RZeppa joing. This was mine at full droop with 28.5" extended length shocks, you'll see I'd have issues with both locations with ANY more extension:

So question for you... I have asked before and no one has answered for some reason. If you have that stock crossmember removed, do you still need a new driveshaft? If so, why?

 

[Jtclayton612]

So question for you... I have asked before and no one has answered for some reason. If you have that stock crossmember removed, do you still need a new driveshaft? If so, why?

Yes because you’ll be hitting flange on the driveshaft around the transfer case too. As long as you limit max droop you’ll be fine.

 

[jhackathorne]

Yes because you’ll be hitting flange on the driveshaft around the transfer case too. As long as you limit max droop you’ll be fine.

Really? Seems like it would have to droop massively to hit the transfer case crossmember. I can see maybe how the rzeppa joint might not flex as much maybe and could bind. Would an Adams DS prevent hitting on the transfer case side?

 

[Tncdrew]

AEV is so overpriced. Idk people think theres some magic to it. Standard shocks, taller springs, and a bunch of brackets lol.

"This kit can handle blue trails really well". A stock sport can handle blue trails...

A lift is just... A lift... It lifts your jeep to fit larger tires thats it. That also changes suspension geometry that needs be corrected. Different coils have different stiffness, heavier jeep need stiffer coils.

The entry level clayton kit is a great kit that includes more than you need honestly for a small lift kit. In a good way. It can handle onroad as well as offroad. Real offroad. Their marketing makes it sound it cant handle the heavy stuff. But you got a lifted jeep with front and rear lockers, 35s, 4LO. It can handle trails with ease. Specially a 2 door. Heck a 2 door rubi on 35s, 2inch coil spacers and 3inch lift shocks can handle the Rubicon.

Anyway. Dont get AEV. Get clayton. If it is too expensive just buy their springs, metalcloak adjustable bump stops, mopar lift LCAs, sway bar links of choice and bilstein 5100s. And you are done.

If you want the best onroad ride. Get the full clayton kit.

I am on stock rubi springs and teraflex 1in spacers. Running bilstein shocks and mopar lift LCAs. Jeep handles offroad with ease and onroad it drives a bit better than stock. Dont overthink this stuff.

Ok, OK! You sold me! Lol!
I've been looking at the Clayton 1.5 Overland+ Kit, (and communicating with them), as I think it will pair nicely with some 285/75-17's and the diff upgrades I recently added.

 

[Jtclayton612]

Really? Seems like it would have to droop massively to hit the transfer case crossmember. I can see maybe how the rzeppa joint might not flex as much maybe and could bind. Would an Adams DS prevent hitting on the transfer case side?

Yes an Adam’s DS would, I should know, I got one for my metalcloak lift lol.

 

[GATORB8]

So question for you... I have asked before and no one has answered for some reason. If you have that stock crossmember removed, do you still need a new driveshaft? If so, why?

As @Jtclayton612 mentioned, if you look at the second picture I posted, you’ll see how close the shaft itself gets to the flange of the RZepppa. Remember, there’s a grease boot there. You may be able to get a little more, and let it self clearance the flange, but the boot tearing will be eminent (and the destruction of the joint).

All the aftermarket shafts use a double cardon (two u joints). Which moves the actual location of the angle further from the face of the case.

EDIT: for some clarity, here’s my stock DS off the Jeep. If you look at the TCase end (bottom in the pic) look at the protruding “flange” around the boot.

 

[jhackathorne]

As @Jtclayton612 mentioned, if you look at the second picture I posted, you’ll see how close the shaft itself gets to the flange of the RZepppa. Remember, there’s a grease boot there. You may be able to get a little more, and let it self clearance the flange, but the boot tearing will be eminent (and the destruction of the joint).

All the aftermarket shafts use a double cardon (two u joints). Which moves the actual location of the angle further from the face of the case.

That makes better sense and gives a visual. I didn’t think about the u-joints pushing it out that much farther from the transfer case face to allow the clearance.

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