Apex AutoLYNX sway bar disconnect

[CptFloridaMan]

Man i’m definitely gonna follow this as i saw them post about it on tiktok a while ago. Definitely looks interesting, and I’m curious how it could be tuned if it’s essentially a shock.

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[DadJokes]

Man i’m definitely gonna follow this as i saw them post about it on tiktok a while ago. Definitely looks interesting, and I’m curious how it could be tuned if it’s essentially a shock.

Now I’m not sure on that. It’s just a guess but I wonder how it would get back to its normal/locked position if you could stop hydraulic flow anywhere. I could be totally off.

 

[EDH_JL]

The other thread was moved to the Marketplace for some reason, so I'm reposting my comment here. Can you update the thread title so others can tell this is about the Apex AutoLYNX?

Interesting for sure. Looks like a big benefit would be eliminating the rattle inherent with the quick disconnect pins and easy reconnection process. I know the few times I've done the manual disconnect on the stock links with a wrench it was a pain to get them back on solo.

One concern would be the sliding part getting jammed with mud/dust/snow/ice/gunk. Possibly needs a boot.

my speculation is there is no hydraulic fluid or anything, the blue knob just locks the shaft in place at the preset location. It freely moves up and down when unlocked with no damping.

To reconnect, turn the knobs back to the lock position and push the sway bar down until you hear a “click” and that's it. Only one side needs to be pushed down to latch. As you drive, it will automatically latch the other side.

 

[SmilesPerGallon]

Yeah even though I think having a rubi sway bar with a manual disconnect has a much more cool factor to it. I think the best bang for my buck is going to be going with disconnect end links. I like RK and Metalcloak's version I just don't think that those options are going to work with the stock rubi height.

The Metalcloak ones do for sure work with stock rubicon height suspension as I'm running them on it and they are great. Takes me tops 30 seconds to disconnect both and under a minute to reconnect them. Plus they are much cheaper than the RK version

 

[Bulldog4xFour]

The Metalcloak ones do for sure work with stock rubicon height suspension as I'm running them on it and they are great. Takes me tops 30 seconds to disconnect both and under a minute to reconnect them. Plus they are much cheaper than the RK version

I just talked to metalcloak and they said they would be too long. Can post a picture of your sway bar angle?

 

[SmilesPerGallon]

I just talked to metalcloak and they said they would be too long. Can post a picture of your sway bar angle?

I sure can but you'll have to wait until I'm off work. Just to make sure these are the ones that I have. The swaybar does not come in contact with any other part of the vehicle even if I hit the bumper stops.
https://metalcloak.com/jl-front-sway-bar-quick-disconnect.html

 

[Bulldog4xFour]

T

I sure can but you'll have to wait until I'm off work. Just to make sure these are the ones that I have. The swaybar does not come in contact with any other part of the vehicle even if I hit the bumper stops.
https://metalcloak.com/jl-front-sway-bar-quick-disconnect.html

I appreciate it, yeah those were the ones I was looking at.

 

[4xnaz]

So looking at this, I’ve got a basic guess how it might work.

Liquid doesn’t compress so I’m thinking this might essentially be a hydraulic piston with a control valve to simply open and close the path of oil going to either side of the piston.

LOL, hey, that's my rig!! I just installed these links a few weeks ago. I've removed the Rubicon electric sway bar and replaced with a Sport sway bar. I went with the longer links of the two options that are offered. As you can see, I had to cut an area of the inner fender liners to allow for the full compressed travel of these links but that didnt bother me art all. They are as simple to use as they are advertised. To unlock the sway bar, its just a quarter turn on the top knob of each link. And the best part is its even easier to connect. No need to be on level ground to get these to hook up. Just twist each knob back the quarter turn and push down on either one of the links until it snaps into place. The other link will follow suit immediately or as you drive a bit depending on how different the level of each tire is sitting at. Here are some more pics I took that show the links in their locked position with a comparison to their fully extended position.

 

[DadJokes]

LOL, hey, that's my rig!! I just installed these links a few weeks ago. I've removed the Rubicon electric sway bar and replaced with a Sport sway bar. I went with the longer links of the two options that are offered. As you can see, I had to cut an area of the inner fender liners to allow for the full compressed travel of these links but that didnt bother me art all. They are as simple to use as they are advertised. To unlock the sway bar, its just a quarter turn on the top knob of each link. And the best part is its even easier to connect. No need to be on level ground to get these to hook up. Just twist each knob back the quarter turn and push down on either one of the links until it snaps into place. The other link will follow suit immediately or as you drive a bit depending on how different the level of each tire is sitting at. Here are some more pics I took that show the links in their locked position with a comparison to their fully extended position.

Wow, thanks for the pics! And thanks for the tip on locking one side then just driving to get the other locked.

So I guess the next thing is....will they last? Someone mentioned something about dirt etc on the chrome shaft there, like a shock, possibly causing premature wear. What do you think?

 

[4xnaz]

Wow, thanks for the pics! And thanks for the tip on locking one side then just driving to get the other locked.

So I guess the next thing is....will they last?Someone mentioned something about dirt etc on the chrome shaft there, like a shock, possibly causing premature wear. What do you think?

I'm a Southwest Wheeler so I wouldn't be able to review longevity with any mud related experiences, however rocks and dirt are right up my alley. My rig is my only mode of transportation so its a weekend rock crawling warrior with 80% of its time on the road, to and from work. With that being said, the link is compacted most of the time and only exposed at flex. But like you said, time will tell.

 

[zouch]

can you give us an idea of how much front suspension lift you're running in these pics?
trying to count on whether or not i'm going to need to trim fender liners, as things are a little bit different under there for the diesels,..

LOL, hey, that's my rig!! I just installed these links a few weeks ago. I've removed the Rubicon electric sway bar and replaced with a Sport sway bar. I went with the longer links of the two options that are offered. As you can see, I had to cut an area of the inner fender liners to allow for the full compressed travel of these links but that didnt bother me art all. They are as simple to use as they are advertised. To unlock the sway bar, its just a quarter turn on the top knob of each link. And the best part is its even easier to connect. No need to be on level ground to get these to hook up. Just twist each knob back the quarter turn and push down on either one of the links until it snaps into place. The other link will follow suit immediately or as you drive a bit depending on how different the level of each tire is sitting at. Here are some more pics I took that show the links in their locked position with a comparison to their fully extended position.

 

[4xnaz]

can you give us an idea of how much front suspension lift you're running in these pics?
trying to count on whether or not i'm going to need to trim fender liners, as things are a little bit different under there for the diesels,..

I'm running a 3.5" Metalcloak lift with 39" BFG KM3 tires. 2" bumpstop in front and 3" bumpstop in rear with split Rubicon OEM fenders.

 

[zouch]

so, a 3.5" lift, and you were still poking into the fender liners?!
do your aftermarket fender liners actually run closer to the ends of the Lynx than stock? (i'm assuming you were running the longer version of the Lynx, correct?)

I'm running a 3.5" Metalcloak lift with 39" BFG KM3 tires. 2" bumpstop in front and 3" bumpstop in rear with split Rubicon OEM fenders.

 

[DadJokes]

It’s going to be a while before I install them as I am just accumulating parts and waiting on weather to do installs.

I did email Apex about whether shock boots would be useful in protecting the chrome shaft portion.

From Apex,

The shaft is covered while locked and is not exposed to the elements. It’s the same quality as a high end shock absorber that is induction hardened and hard chromed. It’s also grease filled not oil filled making it even more unlikely for an issue to occur. A boot can trap moisture and dirt - causing more issues. This is why you see most damper brands not using boots.

The seal is tough as well and has a double lip scraper so don’t worry about dirt or water intrusion. We also use a high grade marine grease.

We test in salty winters of Utah for several years with no harm.

-Paul

 

[Dalvarado55]

It’s going to be a while before I install them as I am just accumulating parts and waiting on weather to do installs.

I did email Apex about whether shock boots would be useful in protecting the chrome shaft portion.

From Apex,

The shaft is covered while locked and is not exposed to the elements. It’s the same quality as a high end shock absorber that is induction hardened and hard chromed. It’s also grease filled not oil filled making it even more unlikely for an issue to occur. A boot can trap moisture and dirt - causing more issues. This is why you see most damper brands not using boots.

The seal is tough as well and has a double lip scraper so don’t worry about dirt or water intrusion. We also use a high grade marine grease.

We test in salty winters of Utah for several years with no harm.

-Paul

I'm a Southwest Wheeler so I wouldn't be able to review longevity with any mud related experiences, however rocks and dirt are right up my alley. My rig is my only mode of transportation so its a weekend rock crawling warrior with 80% of its time on the road, to and from work. With that being said, the link is compacted most of the time and only exposed at flex. But like you said, time will tell.

I’m in between the AutoLynx and the antirock. Please give any feed back on the AutoLynx.... 2018 Jeep JLU 2.5 inch lift with 35s

thanks

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